NA Lancer
Nov 28, 2003, 11:20 PM
#16
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I've seen a manual with cai, header, downpipe, testpipe, and muffler run high 15s. I'd say low 15s would be a safe estimate without any kind of tuning.
Nov 28, 2003, 11:28 PM
#17
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Originally posted by Drive02Lancer
ok so....an SRI, Larger Throttle Body, Ported Intake Manifold, Headers, Test Pipe, 2.5" catback Piping and a free flow muffler...all that and the reflash.
what kind of HP would i be pushing with that? and an estimated 1/4mi time??
ok so....an SRI, Larger Throttle Body, Ported Intake Manifold, Headers, Test Pipe, 2.5" catback Piping and a free flow muffler...all that and the reflash.
what kind of HP would i be pushing with that? and an estimated 1/4mi time??
Nov 29, 2003, 01:02 AM
#20
so i spend $2.3k before taxes/shipping from RRM for all that NA stuff i listed above and im only gonna have 130 at the wheels?
yet for $3k i can get the non-IC turbo which says 200+whp, but say it only gets u 170whp....its way cheaper to go F.I...just pondering...don't mind me
yet for $3k i can get the non-IC turbo which says 200+whp, but say it only gets u 170whp....its way cheaper to go F.I...just pondering...don't mind me
Nov 29, 2003, 01:20 AM
#21
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Forced induction will always be cheaper. It's simple as that. That, and with a smaller displacement engine, it's almost pointless to go all-out with NA since you're limited in size.
Nov 29, 2003, 09:39 AM
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125 hp tops at the wheels with those bolt ons. They will give you much better throttle response, a nice sound, and more torque. Non intercooled turbo with no other mods will give 170 whp on an auto and 180-185 on a manual. Just like ghost said, for power go forced induction.
Nov 30, 2003, 07:31 AM
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That's all find and dandy that the RRM website says that you'll have 200+whp or whatever. But they mean with it fully tuned and it also says "capable" not what you actually get. If you do the non-intercooled turbo with nothing else, just that basic kit you will be at about 125 or 130 at the wheels. Our cars dyno stock between 92 and 100 hp basically (yes people claim numbers of around 108 or so.. but I have issues with that personally). The standard assumption is about 10 hp per psi abouts for turbo I believe (It's early or something), which at 5 psi means 50 hp.. which meas about 150. Poke around on here, I'm sure there is a dyno chart. But I wouldnt' expect anything more than 130 at the wheels from the turbo kit. and I'd say you'd make 120 or 130 N/A pretty easily.
Intake: 40 dollar ghetto no problem
Exhaust: 300-400
Headers: 300-400
TB: 300-400
Reflash: 550
Port/Polish: 350ish (depends on where you are and who does it)
So optimistically: 1840, Pessimistically 2150 and then about another 800 for cam and piggyback if you wanted. So.. pessimitically, you'd be at the same as the non-intercooled setup cost wise, but also base horsepower wise. Difference being the turbo has more room to grow.
Turbo's can be a serious pain though. Just ask HobieKopek (Andrew) how much fun he's having
. I've worked on a turbo with my brother's car as well, and it gets ugly quick. N/A is TYPICALLY cleaner/easier to deal with. Less quirks and issues. N/A is especially good for things like auto-x and that form of racing. If you are out to drag or street "race"... wrong car...
That a little clearer overall?
Intake: 40 dollar ghetto no problem
Exhaust: 300-400
Headers: 300-400
TB: 300-400
Reflash: 550
Port/Polish: 350ish (depends on where you are and who does it)
So optimistically: 1840, Pessimistically 2150 and then about another 800 for cam and piggyback if you wanted. So.. pessimitically, you'd be at the same as the non-intercooled setup cost wise, but also base horsepower wise. Difference being the turbo has more room to grow.
Turbo's can be a serious pain though. Just ask HobieKopek (Andrew) how much fun he's having
. I've worked on a turbo with my brother's car as well, and it gets ugly quick. N/A is TYPICALLY cleaner/easier to deal with. Less quirks and issues. N/A is especially good for things like auto-x and that form of racing. If you are out to drag or street "race"... wrong car... That a little clearer overall?
Nov 30, 2003, 09:44 PM
#26
ah....so i guess ill stay N/A. I figured 170whp for the non-ic turbo...lol so i guess..ill stay N/A for now. Wait till RIPPs gets the Stage2 S/C or wutever and see how RRM's Stage2 comes along...but by the time im at 130whp N/A...they might of closed down already...oh well lol.
Nov 30, 2003, 09:53 PM
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Dont owrry, as long as people are buying, the product will be around. You might want to look into a custom turbo setup. I live in Daytona so there are a few shops around here which can do a custom turbo setup for your car. I am probably gonna owrk witht them since it's local and easier to work with. And I know someone personally who got a turbo for their 2003 accord from Impoted Performance here and it is awesome! So maybe look into a local place if you have one around. From this place I could probably geta custom setup for $3000 which is about same price for RRM kits.
Nov 30, 2003, 09:59 PM
#28
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You want flywheel HP or at wheel???
If you want about 170's flywheel HP, header, intake, exhaust, cam, port and polish, MAF hack or replacement, and tuning (bolting-on a bunch of parts will not grant you bigger gain. This is not a video game). You'll be real close to your goals.
If you want about 170's flywheel HP, header, intake, exhaust, cam, port and polish, MAF hack or replacement, and tuning (bolting-on a bunch of parts will not grant you bigger gain. This is not a video game). You'll be real close to your goals.
Last edited by bahamut; Nov 30, 2003 at 10:08 PM.
Dec 1, 2003, 05:53 AM
#29
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I have to correct myself. I found one of the dyno charts on here... for an automatic Lancer with non-ic turbo. He got 171 whp, 161 torque. So I'm just super pessimistic :-).
It's still about a grand more than doing the general NA stuff to get up pretty good, and also keep in mind that the NA stuff you will be all pretty much compatible with the turbo. A good exhaust, intake, headers (RRM's are compatible with their turbo), etc are all compatible with turbo's. But you have to be more careful about ECU reflashes and cams, as they don't always transfer over.
Later.
Steve
It's still about a grand more than doing the general NA stuff to get up pretty good, and also keep in mind that the NA stuff you will be all pretty much compatible with the turbo. A good exhaust, intake, headers (RRM's are compatible with their turbo), etc are all compatible with turbo's. But you have to be more careful about ECU reflashes and cams, as they don't always transfer over.
Later.
Steve