suyfergirl

iTrader: (1)

okay... I need more HP, and I need it BADLY! I don't have the money for a turbo, but need lots more zoom. How much HP can i make staying all motor and how much would it cost? This could be a way useful thread for people... so lets keep the OT in OT.

QK of PK we ownz

zlancer

iTrader: (1)

plain and simple.... MONEY = POWER the more money you have the more power you will get. you can rebuild your motor but that will cost a lot. anything else you do won't really give you more power because the motor sucks.

Link286XT

iTrader: (3)

in my opinion im going to leave the "all motor" up to the chevy's and fords with v6's and v8's
i think this is a new age of "tuning" its getting all electronic and technical
i couldnt imigine the 2.0 being an all motor

well i cant think of anything else to say, oh well


Link

bahamut

Where do you get the idea that the 4g94 sucks?

I believe the motor has potential w/ a bit of TLC. Sure, the conrods are long as heck, which cause revs to come too quickly . . . meaning the powerband is too short to be effective . . . not the means of revving to the stratosphere like the 1.6 MIVEC.

Amongst the 1.8L guys, we have been shooting for 160 HP off the flywheel with mods in the moderate class (cyl head work w/ other basic mods and tuning). 180 HP is the magic #, and 200 HP is the absolute NA tuning masterpiece.

For your engine, in the moderate class mods, that motor can probably gun around 170 w/ globs of TQ.

Best way to cheat a bit is header, bar none! Intake won't give you that much HP increase as people claimed to be . . . the same for exhaust system, unless it's was original very restrictive w/ smaller diameter piping.

jeffm1999

iTrader: (3)

Hey BAHA, you seem to know your ****. What do you think about a better cam that will open the valves farther and keep them open a little longer on the 4G94. And what about milling the head down to increase compression a couple points. I was figuring with the 2.0 engine those two mods combined would maybe net 35-40 more horses. Your thoughts??

Happy tuning

bradte20

you could always get nitrous and blow up your stock engine, by the way, someone said they were running a 70 shot on their lancer? Is this safe, i've heard prob about 40 is the max u should do

pjal84

Well let's see...an intake, a bigger (read completely new) throttle body, a port 'n polish, maybe a hone extrusion (correct term?), higher compression pistons, increasing the compression of the engine itself: head gasket and a milling as mentioned, a new cam, a cam gear, a nice header, a full exhaust...decent enough power and maybe with an A/F compy you could find tweak it all.

As always, there is of course the HP in a bottle if you so choose.

TearItUpSports

iTrader: (2)

...and for the same amount of money you spent to have all that work done to get 160 from just the motor (including labor), you could have bought the big *** turbo kit and be running much higher.
If you want your head snapped back when you put the pedal to the floor, the turbo kit is the cheapest way there.
In my opinion "all-motor" is an excuse for being slow.

DaTenshi

Dont forget a new ECU or something like that like a Greddy E manage.

bahamut

"you could always get nitrous and blow up your stock engine, by the way, someone said they were running a 70 shot on their lancer? Is this safe, i've heard prob about 40 is the max u should do"

The maxed that I've seen on the 1.8L is 50 shots on stock everything; if they become greedy w/ the shots, the motor is toast because of high CR (compression ratio).


"...and for the same amount of money you spent to have all that work done to get 160 from just the motor (including labor), you could have bought the big *** turbo kit and be running much higher.
If you want your head snapped back when you put the pedal to the floor, the turbo kit is the cheapest way there. In my opinion "all-motor" is an excuse for being slow."

For little over 2 grand, you can pretty much create your own basic turbo kit (whatever brand you choose or parts bin to raid) with more HP bang, but that does not include the cost of tuning w/o any electrical or mechanical gremlins that may creap upon test driving. For a sucessful turbo, you can spend at most 4.5 grand w/ tuning (ie Turbo math spec).

For NA, you can spend at most 2 grand w/o the need for add-ons like turbo timers, all sorts of gauge clutter, and assorted other stuff. Tuning NA isn't all that complicated nor time consuming. Get all the parts done the right and tune away w/ the AFC and be happy with a car running solid under 200 HP.

BTW: when thing blown up on TC'ed motor, it goes in a blaze of glory . . . all sorts of variable can come into play. NA can blow up if improper fitment issues. That's it.

EvoSouL

You know what bahamut, just for you I wish I had the thread (you can get it in the magazine forgot which one) that showed the lancer "all motor" with header, exhaust, downpipe, intake combo costing nearly a grand and only adding a whopping 8HP gain. SO much for your N/A 200HP lancer

I have to agree with Link286XT, he's not a n00b and knows that with today's 4-bangers and given its current technology, you just have to do some sort of force induction to get the best results for the money.



my .02

pjal84

http://www.importtuner.com/archives/...2_tech01.shtml

He mean looky dat one.

bahamut

"Well let's see...an intake, a bigger (read completely new) throttle body, a port 'n polish, maybe a hone extrusion (correct term?), higher compression pistons, increasing the compression of the engine itself: head gasket and a milling as mentioned, a new cam, a cam gear, a nice header, a full exhaust...decent enough power and maybe with an A/F compy you could find tweak it all."

Well, the mild class is the basic I/H/E system. It gives you some "umf", but at times you will eventually get the itch for more speed. 80% of people stop there and then spent like crazy on the eye candy or bling-bling factor or whatever.

In the moderate class, you'll start to crack open the engine and replacing stock parts. Port and polish the cyl head. Replacing cam w/ more aggressive profile and stronger valve springs to endure higher lifts. Crankshaft work (want to get that extra "umf" on the topend) and replacing conrods/connecting pins w/ ARP stuff. Also, upgrade your clutch soon.

Can't do bore since it's the max size of the block w/o the need to sleeve it. Don't know if you want to have even more higher stroke?

extrusion hone: after looking through my Steve Millen brochure, it's work on the intake manifold runners.

If you want to model your car in the moderate class, you will do fine w/ the port and polish of cyl head, replacing conrods/connecting pins (for durability issues but not necessary), and camshaft work (depending on how aggressive the profile) alongside valve springs. Overall, it grants the motor a fatter powerband, not a narrow window like VTEC w/ mild mods.

The last comment was not a crack on H&A. It's a matter of fact on the nature of VTEC operating in the higher rpm band. In lower rpm, it's very conservative w/o the beef feeling of driving GM cars.

I won't go into the theory w/ higher CR. There are some tricks.

bahamut

If you look at it, it's in the mild class w/o tuning. It's just slap on stuff and roll off the yard.

Also, where did I say basic mods can grant you the ability to run 200 HP at flywheel? If you don't crack inside the motor for NA, you're not going to unlock its secret for dedicated people.

Besides, I've already seen that . . . not a big fan of Import tuner. Never will be. Too much glitz and glamour.

BTW: it would seem that people believe dropping a turbo is easy as scrambling eggs. If so, that's fine w/ me if they possibily want to spend twice the amount of turbo money in repairs because of untuned creeping boost or extreme lean condition or faulty O2 reading.

pjal84

http://www.lancerforums.com/forums/s...&threadid=5125

Eh...could be handy.

Edit: Should be useful for anyone who wants to know a little bit more about the engine that is the 4G94.