IILANCERII02

iTrader: (1)

leave your cat in and you'll be fine as far as the sound goes.

Punk8981

iTrader: (2)

well me and my buddy raced again....(like Sdhtown said maybe i just had some traction problems) we tried racing on from a 10-15mph roll from the stop light then go...it was a very even race, I couldnt pass him, and he couldnt pass me...remember both cars are manual, Kamikaze Header + downpipe, SRI, and Catback exhaust. And i tell yah it was a very good race!

sdhotwn

iTrader: (2)

I did the CEL fix this weekend... didn't work. Wired in the 1Meg resistor on the Blue line, and the 1uF cap on the blue to white and no go. Damnit. Took about 108 miles to come on... but it's on now...

Going to try something smaller (resistor wise) without the cap and see how that goes.

Punk.. did you guys try it that way when he didn't have his new catback on it? I'm just wondering if the theory of catbacks hurting you/us is true.

Later.

Punk8981

iTrader: (2)

well we raced it with his catback on already...by the way the race turned out, i know it was all about the traction problems...but other than that, i dont think he lost any when he slap the catback on...but he should be able to post more regardin this matter. I for one woouldnt know the difference since i had the catback and intake before the header.

.L.

iTrader: (3)

i think all in all, it depends on the setup. from my experience it pretty much seems that a catback system makes your car sound good, and thats about it (again depends on the setup, speaking n/a low end performance). in my situation..... sri/kamikaze/dc sports, i felt gains only with the intake and header combo (in low end performance). after installing the catback, all i was able to notice was that it was more free flowing (on the express way, a slightly better high end). i think the car is pretty much the same on the street. when we raced at first (no catback on mine), i was able to keep punk a full car length behind me (but that was due to the traction problems on his car). now with my catback on, and from a roll, i can still get him, but he's right behind my front bumper. he still spins out a tiny bit more than me in second, so i would imagine that we're pretty much even. so based on this, i'm guessing the catback helped out slightly on high end, but nothing really noticable.

Punk8981

iTrader: (2)

in the highway with my current set up I find the car reaches 100mph without a problem, I reach the 100mph mark fast. Unlike stock it gets stock on 80mph and slowly crawling to 90mph. Top end wise the car is performing well. With my race with .L. when he didnt have his catback I had a really bad traction problem so I couldnt keep up with him to find out how fast he really was. And when we raced from a roll after his catback, after 3 or 4 tries we find that both cars are equal meaning side by side. We never get to find out about gains, or losses. But my opinion its just the same a lil bit of gain but not noticable, since the catback makes so much noise even at 35k it makes you think that it should've given you more, or you think you lost some power coz you never heard your engine rev like that with your stock exhaust. I think its all up in the head.

sdhotwn

iTrader: (2)

The one thing I noticed after putting on my catback was that second could be chirped.. when it couldn't be previously... that and the sound ... so I assumed that meant minor performance diff. Exhaust is important.. especially as the car starts to breathe more. Otherwise there would be no such thing as a true "racing" exhaust (which does really exist).

there are also dynos from Buschur that show a 5 hp gain from a catback.. a combined gain of 8 hp with an intake and so forth.

.L.

iTrader: (3)

right. the only thing i'm wondering..... is that with any other type of bolt-ons? i'm wondering if the header has any part to play in the hp/torque gains/losses on our lancers.

by the way.... what happened to your car bro? are you keeping it?

Drive02Lancer

iTrader: (1)

so i just got a muffler in the mail...should i get 2.5" or 2.25" or just have em weld it on?? ahhh lol

.L.

iTrader: (3)

2.25 is best. even if your going turbo it'll be a nice opening. light boost right? no problem.

sdhotwn

iTrader: (2)

As far as the what to get with the muffler... I'd put on 2.25" piping..

Now .L.'s post...

Typically a Header is good for 8-17 hp when it has an exhaust and intake to work with. An intake is good for more or less nothing (1-2 hp probaly) and an exhaust is good for 2-6 hp basically. A lot of it depends on how "bad" the stock parts were etc. But all told if you did intake, exhaust, header, dp, blah blah blah you are looking at 10-20 hp and that'd be about it.

As far as my car.. still working toward selling it... Haven't gotten my new one yet (shipping a car sucks man) as the shipping company hasn't found and available carrier. I may fly to Virginia to drive it back... once I get that then i can work on selling my Lancer and seeing if I'll do the part out or if the whole deal will sell in one shot.

I will bring my new toy to a MLC meet though when I get the chance.. then you'll see something sick fast I'd even try putting up against an EVO for fun to see how that goes (assuming the evo is semi stock ) It is actually supposedly the fastest Protege in the U.S. Just call me BoeTurboProtege!.

Later.

Punk8981

iTrader: (2)

I spoke with magnaflow and they bolt the exhaust to a bone stock cars and then dyno it. Thats how they find out the exact gains you'll have with their product. Magnaflow is claiming 9hp and 9lbs of torque and thats about the best you will have with just an exhaust. so i guess thats how they come up with numbers...Kamikaze is claiming 17hp isnt it? then it should be just the header and nothing else on a stock car.

.L.

iTrader: (3)

sometimes they lie . remember.... the guy said 7 hp and 8.5lbs of torque

sdhotwn

iTrader: (2)

The numbers are all done weird.. and dynos honestly don't mean all that much.. (ducks as flaming begins) As frankly you can tune a car out real well on a dyno and it'll run like half crap on the street... I don't care what everyone else flames back with.. it's a fact, but everyone wants something "concrete" and yes a dyno is a measuring device, but they all have their limits and their accuracy.

So anyway... magnaflow is marketing their product... so they'll say it's good. Sure on one car on one time it did make 9 hp etc.. but that doesn't mean it was on a Lancer.. do you realize how much r and D and dyno time it would take for them to truly be able to say that this or that got this or that much horsepower on every model of car that they produce something for?

9 hp is high.. but 0 is low.. so it is somewhere in between.

The kamikaze should do like 15 or so.. if I ever get my damn thing dynoed I'll let you know.. but also the dyno I'm "calibrated" to (having done a semi-stock run on it) is a bit low reading.. it isnt' calibrated properly so it reads about 20 whp low. Fun! But it should read right proportionally because a dyno relies on measurement of toque which is done with strain gages and so forth. They are linear instruments, so to calibrate them you have to figure out what the zero offset is. Once that is correct the rest of your numbers are correc. Therefore if my readings are about 20 whp low... then all readings are 20 whp low. Given that fact and what I dynoed at versus what I should have dynoed at by estimation and what the other 4 cars dynoed at against their estimated numbers (from similar cars etc) we were all consistently low by about 20 whp. So that's that.

I have no point at this point i think

Punk8981

iTrader: (2)

well so it is...I guess just keep on working on your car till you reach your goal which is IDUNNOwhp and NOTSOSURElbs of torque.