Kamikaze Header
#62
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Originally posted by sdhotwn
The nuts do actually fit. They are lock threaded though. At least the ones I had were. They will thread on about 4 or 5 turns before binding up. After that they are difficult to turn but will go all the way on, and you'll notice the threads are still in good condition (not chewed up like there was a wrong size nut). That prevents them from coming back off. I have had no problem with mine at all. But I'll double check tonight, I have about 2,000 miles on so far.
Later.
Steve
The nuts do actually fit. They are lock threaded though. At least the ones I had were. They will thread on about 4 or 5 turns before binding up. After that they are difficult to turn but will go all the way on, and you'll notice the threads are still in good condition (not chewed up like there was a wrong size nut). That prevents them from coming back off. I have had no problem with mine at all. But I'll double check tonight, I have about 2,000 miles on so far.
Later.
Steve
#63
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Man I swear I got a different header or something
I got a solid copper gasket.. no way that could disintegrate (another thread on here)
I got good locking nuts, that worked just fine.. just hard to tighten because that's the way they are... They were a b***h to get started though...
I have an O2 bung on my header.. IILancerO2II didn't have one at all...
No fitment or install or quality issues at all...
Got any pics of the bad nuts? I'm curious to see what they look like compared to mine.
Later.
Steve
I got a solid copper gasket.. no way that could disintegrate (another thread on here)
I got good locking nuts, that worked just fine.. just hard to tighten because that's the way they are... They were a b***h to get started though...
I have an O2 bung on my header.. IILancerO2II didn't have one at all...
No fitment or install or quality issues at all...
Got any pics of the bad nuts? I'm curious to see what they look like compared to mine.
Later.
Steve
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well guys, i cant stand the noise anymore. im takin it off and going back to stock. probably be selling the header and DP. i cant believe it, that F%&^%^ noise is ugly and wont go away. sorry guys, but it must be done.
#67
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Man.. don't do that.. just go buy the 4" x 14" round magnaflow and get that put inline.. you'll like the sound and the muffler will cost about 50 or 60 bucks.. husker exhaust online... yahoo store...
#69
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so you run two mufflers in line and yet you still have issues???
Something else may be weird then.. mine is very quiet and smooth and clean running that exhaust setup.... Kamikaze header and dp, stock cat, 2.25" piping all the way back. 4"x14" round "resonator" and then 6"x9"x14" muffler.
Something else may be weird then.. mine is very quiet and smooth and clean running that exhaust setup.... Kamikaze header and dp, stock cat, 2.25" piping all the way back. 4"x14" round "resonator" and then 6"x9"x14" muffler.
#70
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ah.. that's right you have the hissing/crackling issue... You could always have them cut out that flex pipe and replace it with a different flex joint that may be different enough to get rid of the issue. That is definitely strange though. You and IILancer02II are the only ones that seem to have that problem, but there may be more as well. I just don't remember seeing it in any other Kamikaze threads... and I've read most/all of them.
I'd try experimenting more and see if you can isolate it... will it do it if someone revs the car up high in neutral? Try and poke around some and see what you find. Otherwise... who knows I guess.
Good luck man.
I'd try experimenting more and see if you can isolate it... will it do it if someone revs the car up high in neutral? Try and poke around some and see what you find. Otherwise... who knows I guess.
Good luck man.
#71
Originally posted by archangelite
well guys, i cant stand the noise anymore. im takin it off and going back to stock. probably be selling the header and DP. i cant believe it, that F%&^%^ noise is ugly and wont go away. sorry guys, but it must be done.
well guys, i cant stand the noise anymore. im takin it off and going back to stock. probably be selling the header and DP. i cant believe it, that F%&^%^ noise is ugly and wont go away. sorry guys, but it must be done.
#72
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it makes it in nuetral when it relindes or is about to redline.
Like i said earlier - it only really happens when the gears are about to shift. LIke when just going at medium throttle the gears shift around 3100rpm so thats when it makes the noise but at WOT it makes it at 6200rpm or whenever the redline is when it shifts.
Since im home today, im going to check a few things. I think maybe the bolts from the DP to my test pipe might be loose or something. who knows.
Like i said earlier - it only really happens when the gears are about to shift. LIke when just going at medium throttle the gears shift around 3100rpm so thats when it makes the noise but at WOT it makes it at 6200rpm or whenever the redline is when it shifts.
Since im home today, im going to check a few things. I think maybe the bolts from the DP to my test pipe might be loose or something. who knows.
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I've said it like 4 times .. you NEED to put your O2 sensor back into the header. You NEED to get an O2 bung installed by an exhaust shop on the header so you can screw that thing back in and reconnect it to the car. Without that no MIL Eliminator will get you ANYWHERE no matter what. Once you do that your gas mileage will go back up.
#75
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Check your headers to Downpipe Bolts and Nuts...may be where the problem is, I experienced the same thing and be posting a pic of the nut NOT TO USE for this header. Pic coming up...