Punk8981

iTrader: (2)

this is the nut ive used and 2 of em fell off and this was the only one that stayed on of course we didnt put lock washers, maybe thats part of the reason why it came loose and fell off. Now im using longer nuts with lock washers...hopefully that will fix the problem. here's the pic...

sdhotwn

iTrader: (2)

that does look shallow.. I'm quite sure what I got was a standard depth nut. It also had the odd markings etc that identified it as a self-locking nut.

Punk8981

iTrader: (2)

do you have a pic of that nut?

IILANCERII02

iTrader: (1)

im not sure what kind of nuts the shop used on my car but i hope there not those kind

and sdh - i just ordered the MIL Eliminator - do u think it wont do anything? because if so i maybe can call them ASAP and cancel the order.

sdhotwn

iTrader: (2)

It won't do anything in the state your car is in now. Until you get that sensor put back in you will be SOL no matter what you do. (**** outta luck). In the future the MIL will be fine/good for you.. but you need that sensor back in first... and you can do your own MIL for about 2 bucks.

sdhotwn

iTrader: (2)

Not yet... I got home late last night. I'll try to do so tonight.

IILANCERII02

iTrader: (1)

thanks SDH

as far as doing my own MIL Elim. i have no idea on how to do this, i read some of your posts about it but just really have no idea.

IILANCERII02

iTrader: (1)

SDH - what kind of shop will weld that bolt or nut into the header for me so i can plug in the o2 sensor?

Punk8981

iTrader: (2)

That nut on the pic is a 14MM and we bought that from home depot. Anyway what is self locking nut look like? i'll wait for your pic.

sdhotwn

iTrader: (2)

Any exhaust shop (exhaust pros, Car X, etc) should be able to do the weld for you and it should only cost like 20 bucks.. no more than 40.

The DIY MIL wiring will be the same/as easy as wiring in the MIL you are looking at buying.. I'll try and get my butt out and freeze to get it wired in sometime here. And let you know how that/if that works.

Self locking nuts have a little gap/groove in their threading. Also will have extra dashes or so forth on the front/back face. I'll have to double check the nuts. I didn't pay that much attention putting them on as I had used self-locks before and when they didn't thread on easy I assumed/figured they were and.. the seem to be etc...

IILANCERII02

iTrader: (1)

WHere does the MIL connect to? Is it the first o2 sensor undearneat the hood of the car or the 2nd o2 sensor ** underneat the car where my test pipe is ? **

thanks

.L.

iTrader: (3)

ted, how are the bolts holding up? mine are intact, but i'll keep checking. those locking washers did the trick.

sdhotwn

iTrader: (2)

the MIL has to be connected to the second (underneath car)sensor.

Here is a little theory/education so everyone is the wise for the issue... Basically the car uses the first sensor as a way to measure and indicate what the AFR is that it is running at. The car also biases that sensor with a .45 volt signal (long explanation on that.. not for this thread). So based off the readings the car gets from that sensor it knows what to do to the fuel mixture. If that sensor isn't present, or is malfunctioning then the car has no idea what is going, goes into "limp" mode where it dumps in lots of extra fuel, throws a CEL, and generally isn't happy. So that's what the first sensor does.

Now the second sensor really only is there to make sure that the voltage read from the first O2 sensor is significantly different than what is read at the second sensor. This ends up equating to a difference in O2 etc in the exhaust. That difference means that emissions are ok/changed and the catalytic is doing its job. The second sensor is not used for engine adjustments... just for double checking emissions.

Therefore putting the MIL on the second sensor makes that difference present and the computer things emissions are fine. Which is good!

But if you put the MIL on the first sensor you alter the signal the computer uses for control and you'll cause all sorts of issues in theory (if you make it so the computer thinks things are richer than they are.. you'll run lean and possibly destroy your engine.. if the computer thinks it is leaner than it really is, you'll add in more fuel and actually get more hp if you have the right bias value in place).

So in the end.. make sure you put your MIL on the second sensor. But you can remember that if you have a way to monitor AFR independently, you can actually "program" your ECU to use more fuel and get more hp by adding in the appropriate bias on the first sensor.

The end .

IILANCERII02

iTrader: (1)

ok sdh - my car is in right now getting a hole drilled in the header for the o2 sensor. I hope the place doesnt **** up, or else ill beat them with a bat lol. i've had a ton of places that **** up when they work on my car, so im a little precautis about it.

wish my luck and i will let you know how it turns out.

sdhotwn

iTrader: (2)

Sweet . You'll have to tell me/us if you notice a power jump now that your car will actually be running right too .

Reset the ECU (battery negative terminal off for 15 minutes) and then go and drive it hard for about 10-15 minutes.. then you'll be all set!

You may get a CEL eventually (mine took 600+ miles).. but your gas mileage should be MUCH better.

I'm wondering how they are drilling that hole... (and they put it in the single pipe AFTER the weld where the 4 pipes join together right?) You may end up having to lengthen your O2 sensor some... mine was very tight... so unless they get it in just the right spot, you'll need to lengthen those wires.. and be careful as well as you'll need higher temp wire.. if you need some let me know.. I have some high temp wire I can send you. Free of course .

So yeah... hopefully they don't get too many shavings into your exhaust system either when they drill.. it won't be real bd.. but it'll possibly get caught up in a few places in the catalytic (well you have a test pipe so never mind) so no big deal then .

Good luck!

Later.

Steve