Notices
Lancer Engine Tech Discuss specs/changes to the engine from cams to fully balanced and blueprinted engines!

How To: Lancer to Evo Throttle Body Swap (Completed)

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Aug 16, 2012 | 12:33 AM
  #1  
Live4Redline's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 381
Likes: 2
From: Richmond, VA
Post How To: Lancer to Evo Throttle Body Swap (Completed)

Evo Throttle Body Confirmed! There was a couple of threads about it but nothing confirmed or writen up from what i could tell. So here ya go.

Completed, running and fully functional.

I installed an Evo Throttle Body on one of my 4G94 Lancers with stock 4G94 manifold.


What was needed:
- Evo Throttle Body with TPS & IACV Sensors
- Any one of the Mitsubishi four wire TPS Conectors depinned or cut with wires.
- Evo Throttle Body Gasket
- Ability to tune the ECU
- Everything else Lancer 4G94



The Manifold:

The manifold has to be port matched to the new size of the Evo TB. This is not an option and must be done. It's only a few mm and can be easly done with an Evo TB gasket, marker, and some aluminum porting tools. I did this too a 4G94 manifold and just so you know, your gonna be doing more then a 1/4 inch thick flange like on some other random Mitsubishi manifolds. It's a solid neck all the way back and to get the most of it your gonna need to remove the manifold and port the 5-6 inches to open the entire bore. I opted to not remove the IM and only ported 1.5 inches of the opening to give it a nice smooth transition and just get the bore to match up for install. I shoved some shop towels in the hole, used some tape to seal it, made some cuts, cleaned it up and with little to no issues was done 10min later. I also would like to note that the 4G93 manifold is a lot more narrow in this area and may not be a good choice for porting. So ensure you have enough room for porting if your trying this with a 4G93 IM.



The Throttle Body:

The Evo TB is 3mm larger and does not support Cruise Control. It.mounts the same but you will need to use your Lancer bolts. Two are longer then the others and go in the two forward holes.



The TPS:

The TPS sensor plug is a different style then the Lancer plug. The Evo uses a square 4 pin plug but with only 3 wires. The Lancer uses an oval 3 pin plug with 3 wires. The wire colors are the same between the two cars so its an easy conversation to the new plug style. You can cut and splice the new TPS connector or go the simpler and cleaner route and de-pin the Lancer connector and push them into the new plug. There was how ever some tricks to this. Firstly the pins are a little bigger but will fit with some mild force. I found it easier to pull the blue water seals back on the wire, push the pin in and then push the water seals back into the hole afterwards. It all went together pretty easy with no issues. The TPS plug is possitioned vertically so from top to bottom the pin out should be WHITE, GREEN, EMPTY, BLACK.



The IACV:

Same style plug so just plug it up. It will need new setting in your tune but that's about it.



The Vacuum Lines:

Same sides and same connections. A to A and B to B. The cruise control line can be left disconected.



The Tune:

Other then the normal stuff that may have changed due to the larger TB you will also need to load up the Evo Stepper Motor settings. These maps differ from each other and as soon as I can, I will post up the maps I built and used to make it work.



The BISS (Base Ignition Set Screw):

The Evo Throttle Body has a flat head screw down in a little hole on top of the TB. Adjusting this will raise and lower your idle if its off at start up. You can use Evo scan to active BISS mode for correct procedure adjustments of this screw. You may need to set it slightly lower in BISS mode to achieve the correct idle out side of it.



Other Idle Issues:

Unfortunately I had some idle issues before the swap and continued to have some after so I can't say for sure what effect the new TB had on my idle but If you run into problems like I did here's something you can try. Test your vacuum, if its in the 10-12 range like mine was you can pull the A vacuum line off and block both ends and see if it idled smoother. It may raise your idle but your looking for smoother if its stumbling like mine was. In the end I flashed and disabled the EGR and Evac siliniods and vacuum capped the two TB lines to bypass the three silinoids setting next to the fuel rail. I know on my turbo Lancer these gave me a lot of issues till I deleted them and the same happened on this car. My car went from a rough nearly stall idle to nearly perfect just in bypassing these.




< Pictures to be posted when I get a chance to upload. >
Old Aug 16, 2012 | 12:38 AM
  #2  
Live4Redline's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 381
Likes: 2
From: Richmond, VA
Reserved for pictures.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Aby@MIL.SPEC
Vendor Announcements
52
Mar 9, 2021 12:41 PM
Erik@MIL.SPEC
Evo 'For Sale' External Engine / Power
365
Aug 29, 2017 01:59 PM
evol evo
Vendor Service / Parts / Tuning Review
2
Jun 30, 2014 08:09 PM
02-Lancer-Es
Lancer Engine Tech
58
Aug 16, 2012 12:47 AM
atilla
Lancer How To Requests / Questions / Tips
37
Nov 8, 2010 06:11 PM




All times are GMT -7. The time now is 01:58 PM.