The EquAzn

iTrader: (1)

This has probably been asked before, but would you please drop some input for me...

Has anyone had any problems, even small problems after installing Exhaust or Intake? or throttle body?

Mostly concerning O2 sensors or check engine light

Bitnode

iTrader: (6)

not with exhaust or intake.. no problems at all.. my CEL came on after installed the RRM header... you should have no problems with exhaust or intake install.. if they are done correctly.

Crzylizard

Yeah...you shouldnt have any problems....

Try resetting your ECU.... ( unhook positive and leave that way for about 15 mins, reconnect and start, let idle for a while). If you are still having problems after that, check your install.

J'sLancerLS

iTrader: (5)

Actually you should unhook the negative side, if you are wrenching away at positive side and your wrench touches something grounded...ZAP!You'll see some fireworks!

Crzylizard

Ok...good point.

Ive been zapped good by a few thousand volts more than a few times (dont ask), so the 15 volts from a car battery aint ****.

dsmrider21

an electric eel gives off 600 volts

The EquAzn

iTrader: (1)

awesome thanks guys,

what about throttle body? does that affect anything i should know about?

sdhotwn

iTrader: (2)

So I had my intake on for like 3,000 miles and then out of the blue one day I punch it and the car starts "bucking"... It basically felt like if the governor kicked in and you were doing a crappy clutch job and getting the car to lurch all at the same time and my check engine soon light came on. I was like WTF!!! Basically discovered that any time I tried punching it the car would "buck" and I'd be running like a clean 3,000 - 4,00 rpms. So I was to say the least confused.

Took it to the dealer and they ran the codes and said that it was an engine solenoid that burned out (I later figured out it was probably a vaccuum line solenoid) and they flat out told me that my air intake was causing the bucking. Told me that it was starving the engine for air (in 25 degree weather mind you) . I pretty much rolled my eyes that yes, yes, the dealer automatically blames the aftermarket part for my grief. So since they had to order a part I cordiall switched back to the factory air box... and oh my ... what a surprise... still "bucked" just not quite as bad. So they replaced the part the next day and the car ran just fine and it says right on my bill "Customer complained of erratic lurching behavior... Aftermarket intake found to be the problem"

And the best part about that too... was when I discussed it with them after changing the intake... and explaining clearly (and very politely) to them that there was no way in hell that the intake was starving the engine for air, they then switched to saying that the intake was providing "too much air" to the engine and that you needed that resevoir channel in the air box to make sure the air was "slow enough" for the car or you ruined the tuning and the car would never run well.

Yeah so anyway... I put my air intake back and the car runs just peachy... next time I'll probably have to go in and show them the difference between a 1/4" and 3/8" drive socket or something... fricken idiots.

So my point... no your air intake or exhaust (if you do headers or remove any of the cats you will get a check engine light) won't do a dang thing to possible hurt the engine in the least or cause any problems (and a properly installed throttle body shouldn't either) but that the dealer will make a thousand dumbass excuses to blame your stuff so that it isn't their problem. If you get a check engine light then take your stuff off and then stuff it down their throats.

Peace all!

Steve

RobertK

iTrader: (4)

actually ya can install the rrmtest pipe to without the check engine light coming on.

I have had min test pipe on for a few days (installed it saturday) waiting on my intake still (will be 2 weeks tomorrow... guess Rock had to order more)

and my rmr exhaust has been on for months without a problem

next I plan on getting some headers or body kit (kaminari wh00t)

since I have an es I'm thinking body kit so my exhause doesn't look quite so dumb

ghostrider

iTrader: (13)

None of those mods will throw a CEL since they don't mess with either of the o2 sensors.

BOOYAH1369

Yeah, online time I had a check engine light on constantly was when I removed the MAS, burned rubber on the 101 and around my neighborhood for about 25 minutes and parked Stinky back in my driveway. Put the MAS back on the next day and rejacked the ECU and presto... it was like I'd never even abused it!

The EquAzn

iTrader: (1)

SDHotwn, if you don't mind, can you give me a rough price of how much that **** costed?

03RallyLancer

iTrader: (6)

Check this site. Half of the members have ordered parts from them great company. Only thing is anything not made by them i.e. the AEM intake you may want to check at a local shop to see if you can get it a little bit cheaper.

http://www.roadracemotorsports.com/lancer.htm

sdhotwn

iTrader: (2)

I got the filter online... it's just a k and n universal... 6" long I think.. costs about 35 bucks...

I used a PVC "closet adapter" (3" toilet base ring thing that I cut the center out of it)

And then a piece of aluminum sheet metal that I cut the hexagon that the MAS is shaped like to make the two mate up.

So all told I spent about 40 bucks... that was it...

Otherwise you end up paying about 150 for a short ram intake.

linusupnfukus

I have a question concerning exhaust and such. I plan on installing an rpw header, eliminating one of the cats , and installing a greddy exhaust. Will i have problems passing emissions if i live in pensylvania?