autox'd my lancer. have body roll + tire ?'s
#16
the RRM perches are acceptable.
compressed air bottles can be had from tool stores and harbor freight for about $25 and you fill it up at the gas station when you fill up your tires. You don't need to bring a compressor with you.
lower CG is always better as long as the suspension can do what it needs to at that drop and you're not scraping on anything. the JIC's -might- be able to do it but I don't know. My teins make me scrape on driveways as it is so it's not practical to be much lower (I don't know how much lower than stock I am but it's not a ridiculous amount). Plus you won't see many people who are slammed to the ground at AX.
205/50-15 is a good size. It's an easy decision because most of the performance tires only have one 15" size anyway, and the 205/50-15 is it Falken may have a 215/50-15 in the azenis 615 but they weigh a lot more than the 205.
Just spend the rest of the year getting used to how the car handles. Don't worry about major upgrades until the off season. Everytime you change something you really have to relearn how to drive the car and you're already learning a new course everytime you go out there.
compressed air bottles can be had from tool stores and harbor freight for about $25 and you fill it up at the gas station when you fill up your tires. You don't need to bring a compressor with you.
lower CG is always better as long as the suspension can do what it needs to at that drop and you're not scraping on anything. the JIC's -might- be able to do it but I don't know. My teins make me scrape on driveways as it is so it's not practical to be much lower (I don't know how much lower than stock I am but it's not a ridiculous amount). Plus you won't see many people who are slammed to the ground at AX.
205/50-15 is a good size. It's an easy decision because most of the performance tires only have one 15" size anyway, and the 205/50-15 is it Falken may have a 215/50-15 in the azenis 615 but they weigh a lot more than the 205.
Just spend the rest of the year getting used to how the car handles. Don't worry about major upgrades until the off season. Everytime you change something you really have to relearn how to drive the car and you're already learning a new course everytime you go out there.
#18
the course will be different but you can gauge improvement based on your score, which should be your time divided by the fastest time to get a percentage. because of the other cars in my class I've been in the 86% range this year and 75% range last year.
#19
Originally Posted by mitsuozboi
No strut braces? That ruins everything I thought I knew about suspension. haha.
This is true for a lot of us. For some reason (and this forum probably doesn't help), the attitude of 99% of people when they get into performance is "if they sell it, I need it, because it will make my car better" - this info is far and away horrible. But I came in with the same thinking. My ideal dream was to have every part anyone ever sold for the Lancer.
As I've started AXing, and more importantly as I've been learning from fellow AXers, I've come to know that it's not about "getting everything" - it's about getting what you need.
Granted, some modifications are going to always be a good idea. Good rubber and coilovers are never going to be a waste on an AX car. But some parts start to become added weight with little/no value in performance. The longer you stay, read, learn and modify, you'll really start to grasp that fact.
Then you'll slowly start to realize that name-brand items only do one thing - cost more than non-name-brand items. As Alchemist can surely teach you with his mod list, anything you can make yourself or piece together will probably work 99% as well as the name-brand part. Let's face it - if you ran a car with one of Alchemist's old home-made strut bars and then a car with an RRM strut bar, you won't feel a bit of difference.
--
Cleaned up after certain folks... *glares at Kris and amby and then laughs*
Last edited by Blacksheepdj; Aug 10, 2006 at 03:49 PM.
#21
as far as DIY stuff working as well as "name brand" stuff is concerned, consider: the Ark was built by an amateur, but the Titanic was built by professionals
i've kept my mod list cluttered with everything I've had on the car but I try to add "removed" to the stuff I don't use anymore.
i've kept my mod list cluttered with everything I've had on the car but I try to add "removed" to the stuff I don't use anymore.
#22
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From: Waterville, ME
cool. well, you guys are the ax'ers and do drive the same car I drive so Ill listen and take what you say seriously for sure.
I only want what I need (saves me money in the end). So you guys saying I dont need certain things to be competitive is a good thing. haha. Im gonna take a look at your mod list alchemist.
I only want what I need (saves me money in the end). So you guys saying I dont need certain things to be competitive is a good thing. haha. Im gonna take a look at your mod list alchemist.
#23
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From: Waterville, ME
What sway bars and perches would you recomend? I know rrm sells the perches and sway bar as a set. Any other bars I should take a look at? Ive heard something about progress sway bar?!? any idea.
also. Would you recomend upgrading brakes to slotted rotors with steel braided brake lines? and mabey pads. I thought of doing that but not sure if it will improve things enouph to invest in it.
also. Would you recomend upgrading brakes to slotted rotors with steel braided brake lines? and mabey pads. I thought of doing that but not sure if it will improve things enouph to invest in it.
#24
I think progress (RRM sells this) is the only manufacturer of a rear sway bar for the lancer. For perches just get the RRM ones, I have that set up and its great, going from no sway bar to the progress unit made for a night and day difference in handling. Upgrading the pads is a good idea, even if you don't plan on racing. Might as well do rotors at the same time, assuming you have the money of course. Not sure on the lines, I have a set of brake lines and a clutch line waiting to go in, after which I can rant and rave about whether it's a worthwhile upgrade or complete crap.
#25
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ok cool. I checked rrm's site and i didnt mention progress so I wasnt sure. thanks for the quick response. Ill probably wait till I need new pads and do rotors at same time. Ive heard the axxis are good?!? the steel brake lines will give you no brake fade so I would say thats a huge bonus. Ive been planning on them for a while.
Ill get the perches and sway bar when I order my tein basics. thanks for the response.
Ill get the perches and sway bar when I order my tein basics. thanks for the response.
#27
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From: Waterville, ME
Thats awsome. Winter is the biggy... Dont want brakes I cant trust when I have to drive home in a blizzard. haha.
I have a oz so I have a sway bar (even tho it is a tooth pick). will the new one really make a big difference? RRM claims 30% stiffer. I guess that is more directed at other OZ's that have made the jump. Coupled with stiffer perches will also help I assume.
I have a oz so I have a sway bar (even tho it is a tooth pick). will the new one really make a big difference? RRM claims 30% stiffer. I guess that is more directed at other OZ's that have made the jump. Coupled with stiffer perches will also help I assume.
#29
wow... I dont have anything to add... everyone here seemed to cover just about everything. And if you are looking to be competative in SCCA classes... im sorry but take off your hood... its screwing you.