How to install cam, cam gear, and valve springs
Jul 26, 2004, 11:42 PM
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How to install cam, cam gear, and valve springs
I can't speel.....
OK. I did it. With a lot less help than needed I did it. I will now post the most in depth how to on a 4g94 cam and valve spring than needed. I don’t know if anyone has attempted the valve springs before but I did and good god was it hard to figure out the back ones. The first part is easy. Get the car jacked up on the passenger side and take off the passenger side wheel. Then begin removing the plastic pieces that cover all the belts. See pic1 and 3. (pic3 is of a hole in the plastic crap that shows the crank shaft if you see that you know you’re in the right place. There are two bolts (above the hole for the crankshaft) and then a lot of little plastic pieces that can be removed with a flat head screw driver and some finger nails. See pic2. I was too lazy to take my tire off again and take pics but there are 3 main plastic pieces that need to be removed. They are self explanatory and they all use the cheap little plastic pieces as seen in pic2. If this is too complicated skip to Section D. Next you can let the car down a little if you want, to work on it. Obviously pop the hood and get to it. First thing is to disconnect the battery for safety and then anything attached to the valve cover, hoses pull right off and the spark plug wires and coil packs you should have taken off before if you ever changed your own so do that and then your ready to take off the cam and valve covers. Once those are removed you need to make sure that dust and debris near the head are kept to a minimum. Close your garage door or whatever but do what you can. It’s just better for the car. Keep all components taken out from under the valve cover kept in oil and covered. Not something mandatory but something I just think helps keep them in good shape. Now if your installing valve springs read on, otherwise skip to section B. Remove the rocker arms and their assemblies. They are self explanatory with a few bolts right on top. They have torque specs but a mechanical engineer told me they don’t matter with the way our engine is designed as long as they are tightened equal to or more than the recommendations. Like I said I put all the bolts and etc in plastic cups filled with oil till I was done. And I covered them with a trash bag. Be careful not to move the assemblies at all until ready. Each rocker arm has a bushing under it that is between it and the valve. They do and will fall out. I took mine out and put them in cups. It’s easiest to do one side (intake and exhaust) at a time. Flip each rocker arm over individually without moving the rest as carefully as you can. This is the first time a magnet will help a lot. See pic9 to see the one I bought. Pic10 shows the bushings themselves. It does matter how the bushing go back in, one side has a hole, the hole goes away from the top of the valve. Pic11 shows my rockers all out. At this point I decided it best to remove my valve springs using the valve spring compressor I bought at sears. See pic4 for more info. Notice I cut 2 sides of it off. That because they were in the way and wouldn’t let me compress the 8 intake springs (see pic12 to know what I mean when I say intake and exhaust springs its kind of a term I made up I think). So I chopped them off. I don’t know if they make a different one but I couldn’t find it so I did this. In green I showed what they did kind of look like before I chopped them off. Don’t chop them off right away. They do serve a purpose. Chop them off after you remove the 8 intake springs and install the new ones. See pic5 for what was in my way, its all in red. The back of the head and the spark plug tubes basically. To take a spring out use the compressor and compress the spring obviously. A little trick I figured out was that some times the keepers (pic6) would hold to the valve a little too much. A rubber mallet did the trick. I kind of demonstrate this in pic7. The keepers (pic6) are the hardest things to work with so be very careful. Advice on how not to lose one forever, plug the holes in the head with cloth, as demonstrated in pic8, the red areas. I know what you’re thinking, Alex you said to keep anything and everything out of there well if it’s a clean, lent free piece of cloth do it!! There are 4 holes I worried about the rest you can plug if you want. Oh yeah another pointer in the topic of not losing things is the seals for the spark plug tubes, I accidentally knocked one off and it took me 30 min to find it so just take them off and put them some where, see pic8 they are supposed to be in the blue circles but I took mine out. The trick to putting in the new spring is to compress it before you put it over the valve. This will keep you from accidentally knocking a valve down and it will make it easier to put that keeper back on. Put the keepers on by hand; don’t use a pair of pliers because they are fragile. It’s hard and time consuming but it’s the only way.
Section B
(People doing just a cam or cam gear may find that moving the rockers around eases the install of the new cam, just a tip someone told me don’t know exactly if it works as I did take out my springs)
Once you have done all that your ready to install your cam and cam gear (if needed). Take out your intake, whatever that may entail. I hope to god if you’re getting a cam you at least have an aftermarket intake. You should know how to take your intake out if not tuff luck. Take off the cam sensor, Pic13. It’s located all the way on the opposite side of the cam gear (driver side). There are 4 bolts holding it on and the rest is just difficult because it’s sealed like a *****. I think 2 of them just hold stuff too it but you gotta take them off anyway. See pic14. Once that’s off unbolt your fuse box. It has 2 bolts and it slides straight out (toward passenger side) of this little holder. Pic15 holder is in blue bolts are in red. Ok so remember when we jacked the car up and I made you take out all that plastic ****. Well its time to understand why. Under there there is the crank and the bold that loosen the timing belt. (Timing belt tension stuff is yellow, crank and crank timing is blue, cam and cam timing is red) See pic16 for some general locations. As we walk through this stuff. Ok from under the car in the wheel well take a ½ wrench and twist away on the crank until the notch on the crank lines up with the notch between the T and the BTDC on the gauge. See pic17 the cam timing should line up with a mark on the head see pic18, keep in mind that they run at a 1:2 ratio so you will have to turn the crank a lot, maybe. The marks on the head are kinda behind the cam gear. Mark the belt where the cam is marked just to be safe though. See pic19. Ok now the timing is set and you know where everything is and is supposed to be continued to remove the cam gear. Do this by loosening the tension on the timing belt. My car, maybe our cars, have a very tight belt it seems no matter what. The timing is loosened not very easily either. There is a bolt, covered by a piece of thing metal. I don’t have a pic because I already put mine back in but its located just above the crankshaft. My advice on finding it is to have a friend hold a screwdriver or something here, pic21 (ignore the red I forgot), while your under the car feeling for it. It pops right off and reveals a bolt that needs to be loosened. Loosen that bolt (I took mine out) and then refer to pic22 to see how to move the pulley the easiest. This small metal piece is attached to the pulley. Move it around and you’ll figure it out. Now take off the belt and walla almost done, DON’T MOVE THE BELT THAT’S HOW YOU THROW OFF THE TIMING. JUST LEAVE IT ALONE THE CRANK WON’T MOVE THAT EASY SO DON’T PULL ON IT OR ANYTHING. Now please tell me you’re undertaking this project with an air gun. See pic20. Please god because if not you need to go get one and at this point that will be difficult. You will also need a friend with some gloves or a cloth to hold the cam gear while you take the air gun to it. Most impact guns are not small enough to fit in the space provided so you have 2 options. Option A: take out the engine mount, undo the power steering reservoir, and undo whatever that black thing is. Or option B: buy a snake extension or a swivel extension for you gun. I recommend option B as I did option A and found it wasn’t hard but woulda been faster and easier doing option B. Those that are not cheap or forgot skip to Section C the rest read on and ask yourself why you like to make things difficult. See pic23, pic24, and pic25. I will go by the letters assigned to the parts to make it less confusing on myself and you. First undo A. It has 2 bolts on the side of the engine bay and 1 on a bracket. Take out the vacuum hose it slides right off. Just push it out of the way until done. Then undo B. First take a jack and jack up the engine on the passenger side. This can be done on the oil pan using a 2x4 or some other fairly soft object. Don’t jack it up higher than it is just use it as support for right now. Unbolt the 3 bolts that bolt the engine to the engine mount. Then jack the engine up a little more and take out the other 3 bolts that hold the engine mount to the car. Remove the engine mount completely. Putting this back in do not reverse the process. Its best to attach the engine mount to the engine then let it down and attach it to the car. You’re done with that crap. Putting that stuff back together you should know how to do since you took it apart the engine mount is the only odd one out of the bunch.
Section C
For all those that bought the right tools lol, have your buddy hold the cam gear while you take an impact gun to the bolt on the end. If you like your friend have him/her wear gloves or use a rag, if not let them do it with their bare hands. When this bolt comes off the cam will slide out the opposite side, driver side. It might not but the odds are you’re pushing on the impact gun hard enough that the bolt won’t move and the cam will unscrew and slide out. It’s ok. Take the cam gear out (see pic26) if your putting in a new one make sure its set to 0 retardation when you put it in. Timing will be done later. Oil your new cam. You will notice that your old cam has a different end on it. That’s huge. Take that end off and put it on your new one. MAKE SURE YOU PUT IT ON THE SAME WAY IT WAS ON THE OLD ONE. Use the little knob on the other end as a guide. I put mine on with the 2 forks and the knob on the same half, if I forgot (I might have) I will post. This part is the cam sensor that tells the car where the cam is in its rotation. Now that that’s done put some more oil on cuz hell you don’t want it to break and then slide it back in. Now you understand why we took out your intake and let you have a little mobility with the fuse box. I found that sliding the cam under the fuse box worked the best and then lifting the other end up and out. Slide the new cam in the same way the old one came out. Put your gear, new or old, back on. The little knob might not go back in the hole right away. Don’t use an impact gun yet. Do it by hand then with a ratchet, if you bend your cam gear your not gonna be happy. Once you have the knob in the hole and it’s as tight as you can get by hand have your friend hold it again and use the impact gun to tighten it down. At this point those who took out all the stuff because you don’t have the right tools can put it all back in. The rest can move on to putting the timing belt back on. Its hard to do, mine was at least. But it’s doable. I found that starting with the mark 1st so I knew that was right was best. This way I didn’t have to do it more than once. Barely put it on at all and actually bend it vertical to help get the bottom to slide over the top. Not sure if that makes sense but get it on the best you can. Once it’s on center it on the cam gear for obvious reasons. Now go back and tighten your timing belt. Have a buddy hold the little metal piece attached to it while you tighten it. You should know how to put the metal piece to add tension, just the opposite of what you did to lessen the tension. Bolt it back up put the little metal cover back on and that’s done. Bolting everything back up is easy. I recommend you bolt up the cam gear sensor and then everything under the valve cover first. Just to keep dust and stuff out. When doing the cam gear sensor make sure you clean it off good and use some sealant on it when you put it back, just like it was. Use that same sealant on the valve cover too. Add some oil to everything under the valve cover once you get it done; just pour it over all the parts just before the valve cover goes back on. You can reuse the rubber seal that’s on the valve cover just add some sealant to it. Make sure your sealant won’t eat through the rubber though, some will. Walla hope you had fun!!! O one more thing, those who did the cam gear, now you getta get out the timing light and tune that, but that’s tuning I only covered install.
Section D
Peace
Alex
OK. I did it. With a lot less help than needed I did it. I will now post the most in depth how to on a 4g94 cam and valve spring than needed. I don’t know if anyone has attempted the valve springs before but I did and good god was it hard to figure out the back ones. The first part is easy. Get the car jacked up on the passenger side and take off the passenger side wheel. Then begin removing the plastic pieces that cover all the belts. See pic1 and 3. (pic3 is of a hole in the plastic crap that shows the crank shaft if you see that you know you’re in the right place. There are two bolts (above the hole for the crankshaft) and then a lot of little plastic pieces that can be removed with a flat head screw driver and some finger nails. See pic2. I was too lazy to take my tire off again and take pics but there are 3 main plastic pieces that need to be removed. They are self explanatory and they all use the cheap little plastic pieces as seen in pic2. If this is too complicated skip to Section D. Next you can let the car down a little if you want, to work on it. Obviously pop the hood and get to it. First thing is to disconnect the battery for safety and then anything attached to the valve cover, hoses pull right off and the spark plug wires and coil packs you should have taken off before if you ever changed your own so do that and then your ready to take off the cam and valve covers. Once those are removed you need to make sure that dust and debris near the head are kept to a minimum. Close your garage door or whatever but do what you can. It’s just better for the car. Keep all components taken out from under the valve cover kept in oil and covered. Not something mandatory but something I just think helps keep them in good shape. Now if your installing valve springs read on, otherwise skip to section B. Remove the rocker arms and their assemblies. They are self explanatory with a few bolts right on top. They have torque specs but a mechanical engineer told me they don’t matter with the way our engine is designed as long as they are tightened equal to or more than the recommendations. Like I said I put all the bolts and etc in plastic cups filled with oil till I was done. And I covered them with a trash bag. Be careful not to move the assemblies at all until ready. Each rocker arm has a bushing under it that is between it and the valve. They do and will fall out. I took mine out and put them in cups. It’s easiest to do one side (intake and exhaust) at a time. Flip each rocker arm over individually without moving the rest as carefully as you can. This is the first time a magnet will help a lot. See pic9 to see the one I bought. Pic10 shows the bushings themselves. It does matter how the bushing go back in, one side has a hole, the hole goes away from the top of the valve. Pic11 shows my rockers all out. At this point I decided it best to remove my valve springs using the valve spring compressor I bought at sears. See pic4 for more info. Notice I cut 2 sides of it off. That because they were in the way and wouldn’t let me compress the 8 intake springs (see pic12 to know what I mean when I say intake and exhaust springs its kind of a term I made up I think). So I chopped them off. I don’t know if they make a different one but I couldn’t find it so I did this. In green I showed what they did kind of look like before I chopped them off. Don’t chop them off right away. They do serve a purpose. Chop them off after you remove the 8 intake springs and install the new ones. See pic5 for what was in my way, its all in red. The back of the head and the spark plug tubes basically. To take a spring out use the compressor and compress the spring obviously. A little trick I figured out was that some times the keepers (pic6) would hold to the valve a little too much. A rubber mallet did the trick. I kind of demonstrate this in pic7. The keepers (pic6) are the hardest things to work with so be very careful. Advice on how not to lose one forever, plug the holes in the head with cloth, as demonstrated in pic8, the red areas. I know what you’re thinking, Alex you said to keep anything and everything out of there well if it’s a clean, lent free piece of cloth do it!! There are 4 holes I worried about the rest you can plug if you want. Oh yeah another pointer in the topic of not losing things is the seals for the spark plug tubes, I accidentally knocked one off and it took me 30 min to find it so just take them off and put them some where, see pic8 they are supposed to be in the blue circles but I took mine out. The trick to putting in the new spring is to compress it before you put it over the valve. This will keep you from accidentally knocking a valve down and it will make it easier to put that keeper back on. Put the keepers on by hand; don’t use a pair of pliers because they are fragile. It’s hard and time consuming but it’s the only way.
Section B
(People doing just a cam or cam gear may find that moving the rockers around eases the install of the new cam, just a tip someone told me don’t know exactly if it works as I did take out my springs)
Once you have done all that your ready to install your cam and cam gear (if needed). Take out your intake, whatever that may entail. I hope to god if you’re getting a cam you at least have an aftermarket intake. You should know how to take your intake out if not tuff luck. Take off the cam sensor, Pic13. It’s located all the way on the opposite side of the cam gear (driver side). There are 4 bolts holding it on and the rest is just difficult because it’s sealed like a *****. I think 2 of them just hold stuff too it but you gotta take them off anyway. See pic14. Once that’s off unbolt your fuse box. It has 2 bolts and it slides straight out (toward passenger side) of this little holder. Pic15 holder is in blue bolts are in red. Ok so remember when we jacked the car up and I made you take out all that plastic ****. Well its time to understand why. Under there there is the crank and the bold that loosen the timing belt. (Timing belt tension stuff is yellow, crank and crank timing is blue, cam and cam timing is red) See pic16 for some general locations. As we walk through this stuff. Ok from under the car in the wheel well take a ½ wrench and twist away on the crank until the notch on the crank lines up with the notch between the T and the BTDC on the gauge. See pic17 the cam timing should line up with a mark on the head see pic18, keep in mind that they run at a 1:2 ratio so you will have to turn the crank a lot, maybe. The marks on the head are kinda behind the cam gear. Mark the belt where the cam is marked just to be safe though. See pic19. Ok now the timing is set and you know where everything is and is supposed to be continued to remove the cam gear. Do this by loosening the tension on the timing belt. My car, maybe our cars, have a very tight belt it seems no matter what. The timing is loosened not very easily either. There is a bolt, covered by a piece of thing metal. I don’t have a pic because I already put mine back in but its located just above the crankshaft. My advice on finding it is to have a friend hold a screwdriver or something here, pic21 (ignore the red I forgot), while your under the car feeling for it. It pops right off and reveals a bolt that needs to be loosened. Loosen that bolt (I took mine out) and then refer to pic22 to see how to move the pulley the easiest. This small metal piece is attached to the pulley. Move it around and you’ll figure it out. Now take off the belt and walla almost done, DON’T MOVE THE BELT THAT’S HOW YOU THROW OFF THE TIMING. JUST LEAVE IT ALONE THE CRANK WON’T MOVE THAT EASY SO DON’T PULL ON IT OR ANYTHING. Now please tell me you’re undertaking this project with an air gun. See pic20. Please god because if not you need to go get one and at this point that will be difficult. You will also need a friend with some gloves or a cloth to hold the cam gear while you take the air gun to it. Most impact guns are not small enough to fit in the space provided so you have 2 options. Option A: take out the engine mount, undo the power steering reservoir, and undo whatever that black thing is. Or option B: buy a snake extension or a swivel extension for you gun. I recommend option B as I did option A and found it wasn’t hard but woulda been faster and easier doing option B. Those that are not cheap or forgot skip to Section C the rest read on and ask yourself why you like to make things difficult. See pic23, pic24, and pic25. I will go by the letters assigned to the parts to make it less confusing on myself and you. First undo A. It has 2 bolts on the side of the engine bay and 1 on a bracket. Take out the vacuum hose it slides right off. Just push it out of the way until done. Then undo B. First take a jack and jack up the engine on the passenger side. This can be done on the oil pan using a 2x4 or some other fairly soft object. Don’t jack it up higher than it is just use it as support for right now. Unbolt the 3 bolts that bolt the engine to the engine mount. Then jack the engine up a little more and take out the other 3 bolts that hold the engine mount to the car. Remove the engine mount completely. Putting this back in do not reverse the process. Its best to attach the engine mount to the engine then let it down and attach it to the car. You’re done with that crap. Putting that stuff back together you should know how to do since you took it apart the engine mount is the only odd one out of the bunch.
Section C
For all those that bought the right tools lol, have your buddy hold the cam gear while you take an impact gun to the bolt on the end. If you like your friend have him/her wear gloves or use a rag, if not let them do it with their bare hands. When this bolt comes off the cam will slide out the opposite side, driver side. It might not but the odds are you’re pushing on the impact gun hard enough that the bolt won’t move and the cam will unscrew and slide out. It’s ok. Take the cam gear out (see pic26) if your putting in a new one make sure its set to 0 retardation when you put it in. Timing will be done later. Oil your new cam. You will notice that your old cam has a different end on it. That’s huge. Take that end off and put it on your new one. MAKE SURE YOU PUT IT ON THE SAME WAY IT WAS ON THE OLD ONE. Use the little knob on the other end as a guide. I put mine on with the 2 forks and the knob on the same half, if I forgot (I might have) I will post. This part is the cam sensor that tells the car where the cam is in its rotation. Now that that’s done put some more oil on cuz hell you don’t want it to break and then slide it back in. Now you understand why we took out your intake and let you have a little mobility with the fuse box. I found that sliding the cam under the fuse box worked the best and then lifting the other end up and out. Slide the new cam in the same way the old one came out. Put your gear, new or old, back on. The little knob might not go back in the hole right away. Don’t use an impact gun yet. Do it by hand then with a ratchet, if you bend your cam gear your not gonna be happy. Once you have the knob in the hole and it’s as tight as you can get by hand have your friend hold it again and use the impact gun to tighten it down. At this point those who took out all the stuff because you don’t have the right tools can put it all back in. The rest can move on to putting the timing belt back on. Its hard to do, mine was at least. But it’s doable. I found that starting with the mark 1st so I knew that was right was best. This way I didn’t have to do it more than once. Barely put it on at all and actually bend it vertical to help get the bottom to slide over the top. Not sure if that makes sense but get it on the best you can. Once it’s on center it on the cam gear for obvious reasons. Now go back and tighten your timing belt. Have a buddy hold the little metal piece attached to it while you tighten it. You should know how to put the metal piece to add tension, just the opposite of what you did to lessen the tension. Bolt it back up put the little metal cover back on and that’s done. Bolting everything back up is easy. I recommend you bolt up the cam gear sensor and then everything under the valve cover first. Just to keep dust and stuff out. When doing the cam gear sensor make sure you clean it off good and use some sealant on it when you put it back, just like it was. Use that same sealant on the valve cover too. Add some oil to everything under the valve cover once you get it done; just pour it over all the parts just before the valve cover goes back on. You can reuse the rubber seal that’s on the valve cover just add some sealant to it. Make sure your sealant won’t eat through the rubber though, some will. Walla hope you had fun!!! O one more thing, those who did the cam gear, now you getta get out the timing light and tune that, but that’s tuning I only covered install.
Section D
Peace
Alex
Last edited by hardcoretuner; Jul 26, 2004 at 11:45 PM.
Jul 27, 2004, 12:03 AM
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e-mail me if you are actually interested. i need a mod to let me upload the pics first.
thanks dude i bet no one can wait till i get my turbo and do that myself lol
some mod please pm me if you will let me upload this 8 meg file
thanks
thanks dude i bet no one can wait till i get my turbo and do that myself lol
some mod please pm me if you will let me upload this 8 meg file
thanks
Last edited by hardcoretuner; Jul 27, 2004 at 12:06 AM.
Jul 28, 2004, 08:36 AM
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I dunno why you need a mod to let you upload the pics, but ok. IF they're too big, resize them, if theyre are too many they can be hosted remotely and linked to, otherwise just upload them. We don't have any special picture privaledges except a slightly increased gallery size. 
Jul 28, 2004, 02:31 PM
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I was wondering....Did you get the valve springs from rpw? If not...where did you get them. Good write up by the way.
Last edited by josh930; Jul 28, 2004 at 02:33 PM.
Jul 29, 2004, 09:35 PM
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sounds good....nice post up. very similiar to hondas......definitaley puts me back in the days of switching out heads and cam installs in the back yard. good post up. a little more necessary on the lancer than i remember on the dohc of my buddies si's and integras. Very detailed. again, good job. I can't wait to do my cam install....but I'm going turbo first. Guess we'll just have to see who get's first dibs on the how to write up on that one. Hopefully I'll have my kit in October. wish me luck.
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Jul 30, 2004, 01:38 PM
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Just out of curiosity....who did you purchase the cam from and how much? Do you have auto....and if so, did you buy the manual cam or the auto cam? How long to receive cam after you purchased it? Did you tune with an HKS SAFC? Any tuning? Thanks.
Aug 9, 2004, 03:01 PM
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my cam isn't tuned yet i just have some general settings so i can put around and i do feel some mad power in the upper rpm range.
the cam is the same for an auto or stick. same engine, so same cam. i have an auto.
when i went to the track, the day after i got the cam in and it hadn't been tuned at all i ran a 18.3 lol then i spent the rest of the nite just messing with the safc and i got it down to 17.3 there is still a lot of tuning to do i need to go to a dyno which i am doing but not very soon. please keep in mind that stock my car ran a 18.3 and then i got that down to a 17.8 and now i am down to 17.3 this shop near me put in some better settings and i have not ran it again yet. i think its possible to get this thing into the mid 16's which makes me happy!!!
the cam is the same for an auto or stick. same engine, so same cam. i have an auto.
when i went to the track, the day after i got the cam in and it hadn't been tuned at all i ran a 18.3 lol then i spent the rest of the nite just messing with the safc and i got it down to 17.3 there is still a lot of tuning to do i need to go to a dyno which i am doing but not very soon. please keep in mind that stock my car ran a 18.3 and then i got that down to a 17.8 and now i am down to 17.3 this shop near me put in some better settings and i have not ran it again yet. i think its possible to get this thing into the mid 16's which makes me happy!!!