Hex_20

Anyways, just got my Magnaflow catback system today and was all excited to install it but then my worst nightmare came true....... rusty bolts . That's right , stopped before i could even begin.

So yea my bolts at the catalytic and the resonator where rusted so bad I had to just give up and get some input.


What i have tried to do so far is I tried to use WD40, I tried heating the bolt , i tried using a big hammer and still no luck.

So if anyone has any suggestions let me know.

HobieKopek

iTrader: (8)

Use PB Blaster and a breaker bar. If all else fails, pour some Coca-Cola on it and let it sit for the night. If you're using a hammer on your wrench you're likely to strip the bolt, so be careful. If you're using the hammer to tap the bolts then you're doing the right thing.

RobertK

iTrader: (4)

it be honest, those bolts are horrid even when the car is new. I had a fun time with them... I thinks ome people on here just used a breaker bar.

RobertK

iTrader: (4)

andrew always beats me by seconds.

Hex_20

Unfortunately, the breaker bar didn't work, I think my only choice is to bring it in, and pay someone to do it. But that won't give the same satisfaction as doing it myself. Unless anyone else has anymore ideas.

HobieKopek

iTrader: (8)

I guarantee you can get them off if you keep at it, but that's ultimately up to you.

I'd tell you to just bring it to me, but I have no free time and you're a thousand miles west.

Kerensky

I have a story about my exhaust as well which may help you get yours on.

After only two winters here in New England the bolts on my exhaust were more rust than steel. When I installed my Magnaflow exhaust I had the same problems you are having. The bolts from the downpipe to the cat came off, but all the ones from the aft end of the cat and rearward where solidly rusted. What I ended up doing was taking the cat off my downpipe and then taking a sawz-all to the piping behind the aft flnge on the cat. I also sawed the piping where it bolts together near the muffler, and this allowed me to remove the old exhaust system.

Next I had to remove the cat from under the car to get off the flange from the exhaust. Unfortunately I couldn't get the O2 sensor out of the cat while it was under the car, so I just took off the panel on the passenger side forward center console and pulled back the carpeting to where I could unplug O2 sensor and feed the wire and plug down and out of the car. Once I had the cat out, I took it over sawed off the old nuts with a cutting wheel, then drilled out the old studs with a half inch drill bit.

So now that I had the old exhaust flange off, and two holes going through the flange on the cat where the studs used to be I was in business. I grabbed a couple of inch and a half long NiCu 3/8" bolts, and a couple of self locking nuts which have a bit of nylon in the end so they won't back off from vibration and the such. I took the cat and fed the O2 sensor wire back up into the passenger compartment of the car, plugged it back in and then proceded to install the exhaust system.

It may have took a bit of time but in the end it was worth it, especially not paying someone to do something so simple.

K

sethevo

if you have a sawzall use that. or buy a cheap hack saw and just cut them and buy new bolts. or a dremel with a cut off wheel....thats what i would do.

HobieKopek

iTrader: (8)

And the nylon isn't melted being so near the heat from the cat? Wouldn't suprise me either way. Honestly...just use anti-sieze next time. The exposure to water, salt, moisture in the air, dirt, oil, grime, and heat from the exhaust really take their toll on these bolts. I just put new ones on while rebuilding. Hopefully they last a bit longer than the last ones (which were a royal PITA to take off.

And I wouldn't recommend cutting them unless you strip them. ...but again that's ultimately up to you.

Kerensky

Nylon is still good in the nut so far. These are the same manufacture of nut that we use at work in all sorts of high temp areas on the boats, such as the reactor compartment and the like. They also with stand direct exposure to sea water for years on end so I figure they'll work out decently to hold the exhaust together.

K

SIMSSEGA

iTrader: (6)

Hex you gotta beat the bolt dont pus out. I had same trouble its all about the penetrating oil and a damn good breaker bar. And if worst comes to worse use a damn lock wrench and a breaker bar. I live in St.Paul too so i bet our cars were in the same shape and i did it in march out side at 10pm because the garage was being used for painting. Same as kerensky i had to use a sawza to hack off the piping. Heres how i did it:First off take a sawza to the piping right in front of the passanger side rear tire. Take the muffler off the hangers and take that **** to the garbage. And not you can try to unbold the bolts going to the cat. And now just slap on the new exhaust and your dont. Should take a few hours at most.
Hopes this helps man and dont bring it in that cost MONEY man.

HobieKopek

iTrader: (8)

I kept my cat-back piping and used it as a breaker bar when some ****head overtightened my wheel lug with an air wrench. Worked like a charm

No I have a 250lbs/ft 2 1/2" long torque wrench though so it's rare I need something that can apply more torque on larger bolts. Usually the problem is holding the other end still.

Danno

iTrader: (4)

Before you do it go to the local muffler shop or Pep Boys/Canadian tire depending on your location. Buy some new bolts incase you brake any. Wok at it and reef on it. You brake one so what. Little drilling and hammering and you got a new bolt. I would reccomend replacing with new bolts anyways.

Hex_20

Hey thanks everyone, I really don't think I am ready to give up.

I'll keep at it and see if i can get them off.

Thanks to everyone for the words of encouragment

Hex_20

Hey i got a question , if i cut those bolts/nuts off do i have to use a special bolt/nut since its for the exhaust ?