Header Install
Mar 17, 2005, 12:33 AM
#2
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Basically. The only problem is the lower left bolt and just to let you know before the rest of the people on this forum slaughter you. You can use the "search" function to find this topic and since I didn't explain to you which methods are out there. Use the search function and practice on your first topic. Enjoy your headers.
Mar 17, 2005, 12:35 AM
#3
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ahhhhhhhhhhh, it sounds easier than it is. tell you what, start with the lower left nut. then come back and tell us how easy it was,lol. but seriously, do a search. not trying to be a smartass but ALOT has been written on this subject, check it out. DAMN, beat me to it! 
Mar 17, 2005, 06:02 AM
#4
Originally Posted by rallyme
start with the lower left nut. then come back and tell us how easy it was,lol.
Mar 17, 2005, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by blaze_125
I did 3 header so far and the best way to get that s@#ker off is to splice it open. The rope thing didn't work out to well for me. The last time I worked on the header it took me not even 2 minutes to get that bolt off. The stock bolts are made of copper. Really soft so really easy to splice open with a wood cisor. Just make sure you don't damage the stud thread.
Fox
Mar 17, 2005, 06:43 AM
#6
Originally Posted by Shingen
What do you mean splice open?
Fox
Fox
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Mar 17, 2005, 11:11 AM
#8
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I'm still confused.....
You used a "wood cisor" to cut through one of the faces of the nut? And then you used a flat head screwdriver to pry it off.... right? What's a wood cisor? Is it some kind of chisel?
how do you get a nut on there to keep from getting a leak?
For reference, I used a dremel and sanding cylinders (a LOT of sanding cylinders) to grind away a portion of the aluminum on the AC complressor bracket. use WD40 to lubricate the cylinder to prevent buildup and to reduce heat (which will make the aluminum softer and more prone to building up on the cylinder). now everytime I have to take the header off, I just use the long socket with a swivel to take it off.
You used a "wood cisor" to cut through one of the faces of the nut? And then you used a flat head screwdriver to pry it off.... right? What's a wood cisor? Is it some kind of chisel?
how do you get a nut on there to keep from getting a leak?
For reference, I used a dremel and sanding cylinders (a LOT of sanding cylinders) to grind away a portion of the aluminum on the AC complressor bracket. use WD40 to lubricate the cylinder to prevent buildup and to reduce heat (which will make the aluminum softer and more prone to building up on the cylinder). now everytime I have to take the header off, I just use the long socket with a swivel to take it off.
Mar 18, 2005, 07:20 AM
#10
Originally Posted by engineerboy
I'm still confused.....
You used a "wood cisor" to cut through one of the faces of the nut? And then you used a flat head screwdriver to pry it off.... right? What's a wood cisor? Is it some kind of chisel?
You used a "wood cisor" to cut through one of the faces of the nut? And then you used a flat head screwdriver to pry it off.... right? What's a wood cisor? Is it some kind of chisel?
how do you get a nut on there to keep from getting a leak?
Are we talking about the RRM header here..?
Mar 18, 2005, 10:43 PM
#11
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Remove the timing cover and bend back the thin piece of metal. Easy easy. Plus you can keep your hardware. Funny idea to cut it off!! That dang nut is soo frustrating with the rope trick!! Show that nut, say F**k it and cut it off!! hahaha!!I like that!!
Mar 18, 2005, 11:05 PM
#12
I started a thread on this very topic and the rope with the wrench worked for me. No cutting, chiseling, grinding, bending, prying anything. Just got the rachet wrench on there, tied a rope to the other end and let physics do the rest. Came off in no time.
