There is a guy in the forced induction threat...senate(?)...he is swapping out his hubs with the ralliart to go from a 4 lug to a 5 lug setup. THis way the rotors and and calipers from the ralliart can be used on the lancer.

He said all 4 hubs and all the brake hardware is running him somewhere close to a hundred. You could save some cash if your aftermarket wheels work on both 4 and 5 lug hubs and only swap out the rear...only bummer is that if you get a flat in the rear then you are screwed

I am waiting for this guy to finish his project and I may do this. Gotta do suspension first and then I can swap in new hubs. My aftermarket rims currently support both the 4 and 5 lug hubs.

 

thanks for the info. it going to help alot.

 

I actually paid $100 for both of the complete fronts. I was able to find the deal of the century on these from a crashed Ralliart. Just the hubs are $120 each for the rear. You also need to swap out the complete e-brake cables to those of a Ralliart. If you look on rockauto.com you can find the rear brake drum hardware kit for the shoes for cheap. The swap should run the average person around $1200-$1500. This would include new pads, rotors, shoes and other items that should be installed as new.

 

^^^so was it worth it? what's your review on the whole thing, other than obvious benefits as a learning experience and something to do when you're bored

 

I still haven't made the time to install everything. I already know that it's going to be worth it. That's an easy answer. My chassis has 152,000 miles on it and will greatly enjoy the freshening up of both the suspension and braking systems. I'm also still waiting on my KYB struts to arrive. I'd rather do the brakes and suspension all on the same day to save time and knock it out all at once.

 

When you finish up, give me a shout and I'll add your info to the FAQ.

 

Warning, a bit OT:

Where'd you order the struts from? I got mine from Tirerack, and the front boots don't exactly work out...I ended up re-using the existing boots. And they don't come with any new spring pads, so plan on re-using those as well.


As for the KYB replacements, didn't notice any difference over stock other than the car sitting up about an inch higher in the rear (those were shot)....my fronts were still good, but I figure with 100k on them they wouldn't be for much longer. I had the choice of blowing all my money on coilovers, or going with the KYB replacements and putting the rest of my money into bar supports...

Back on topic:
The rear setup on this car is pretty sad, in general. It'd be nice to have more control over the front-to-rear brake bias, too. I can adjust the rear brakes every few thousand miles and probably be happy, but the fact that they only hold that adjustment until the pads wear sucks. I guess I spent too much time with american muscle where I could adjust the bias as I saw fit. It's the main reason I was interested in the drum-disk conversion at first...and I still am to a degree... hmmm, just had a thought...going to search around and see if there's something to do about the original setup without spending a few g's.

 

I didn't feel like wasting money on coilovers so I just went with the KYB replacements. My suspension has over 150,000 on it so it will be an improvement.

You can adjust the front-to-rear brake bias, if you want, by removing the factory proportioning valve and replacing it with an adjustable proportioning valve. But I see zero reason to do this in the first place.

 

well, your car might be braking better than mine:-p I'm not saying that I want the rears to engage at the same rate, or even overtake the front...I want to adjust them so that they are a better match.

Replacing Proportioning Valve Springs

Interesting Discussion on Rear Brake Upgrades

Brake Bias 101

So as I don't know what the stock bias is, I'm interested in knowing where to start as an adjustment. My car definitely feels like it's an 85/15 front/rear bias, I'd like to get it closer to a 70/30 or even 60/40. I'm thinking of grabbing the SSBC proportioning valve as it comes with a gauge. That way it's not such a blind adjustment. For only $40-70 investment, bleeding the lines and adding some flares, I don't see it as much of a bother if it works out well...

 

I swapped my front calipers to GSX dual piston calipers last summer and upgraded to the larger size rotor. This made a great improvement in braking overall. The only reason I'm upgrading again is because my current braking setup is nowhere near sufficient enough to stop my car with my turbo setup.

Adding a different proportioning valve is the way to go if you want to increase the bias in the rear. The stock valve is setup for either 85/15 or 80/20.

 

yeah, I'd be nervous as hell if I went to turbo without upgraded brakes I finally started feeling more comfortable going with the drilled slotted rotors and premium axxis pads for the fronts.

thanks for the info on the ratio....had a feeling it was like that.