bobaab

iTrader: (5)

I have an autocross coming up in a week and a half. Im in HS so im not putting on any mods, but I am thinking about the camber angle of the wheels. My understanding is that either the front or the rear cannot be set really, but if they could, what are some ideal camber angles I could run that would NOT kill my tires with everyday driving?

Also, can all tire shops set the camber angle? Thanks guys.

Blacksheepdj

iTrader: (88)

If they can do an alignment, they can do camber.

And you can get some camber bolts to adjust it (just don't tell!).

I'll let the more experienced folk suggest #s (because I have forgotten what people suggested to me).

KillahB

iTrader: (7)

Honestly, adjusting your camber wont do THAT much for you really. Might give you a 1/2 second but there is not much that you will get if you adjust your camber, esp. if you are thinking about an angle that would be suited for driving AND autocrossing.

Nonetheless, this is what I would recommend.
- 2 Degrees Camber, 3.8 Degrees caster, .1 degree toe out front
-1.4 degrees camber, 0 toe rear.

Not really street friendly but should help your car toss around. I would invest in some cheap PCP bars from eBay (not as solid as a Cusco or a Ralliart, but cheap) and some good brakes like Hawk. Since you are in HS and you drive a Lancer, you are obviously poor like the rest of us, but those things wont break the bank. And obviously some sticky tyres would help too.

Good luck man.

4-BNGR

iTrader: (3)

Adjusting the stock suspension may cost you as much as lowering the car on springs (Hotchkis).

DaWorstPlaya

iTrader: (31)

Sticker tires is the BIGGEST difference you can make for your H Stock class. I don't know how competitive it is there but people could protest if you put something not allowed in your class. Remember the tires have to be DOT legal. I believe most stock car don't have camber bolts to help adjust camber angles and they have static castor angles too but if you can, try to set it up as AirQuez said:
Try to get maximum neg camber upto 2.5 deg in the front, if you can, except 0 out the toe so it doesn't eat through you tires
Try to get upto neg 1.5 deg camber in the rear, 0 toe
Castor should be static as you can't change it.

You can also put a higher flowing air filter (K&N) as it is an allowed mod and a catback (if you are cheap just take off the muffler portion or get a straight pipe).

bobaab

iTrader: (5)

already got the sticky tires (Falken azenis) and already got the pads (Axxis Ultimate)

and i will not be putting on lowering springs, as they will bump me out of stock class and ill kill my shocks..so that's why im asking about the camber because that is probably one of the few options I have left (aside from the K&N drop in filter which i may get soon).

it looks like I need to get camber plates/bolts to actually set the front camber as the Lancer doesnt have that adjustable feature..Im not sure if it's worth doing no cause from the RRM website, it was 89 bucks I think. Even if it is only a .5 second loss in time, that is actually very, very big..maybe it is worth it.

Thanks for the inputs guys would like to hear from USDM Lancer owners as well!

GreenPsycho

iTrader: (13)

just a heads up, the price on rrm's site is super high for only 2 bolts (correct me if i'm wrong, but i reckon it only comes with 2). i got 4 cambere bolts for 35 shipped i believe off ebay (its not a turbo kit here, its threaded steel rods, no sense paying more)

look on ebay for some, or i believe eboy got his from option auto for pretty cheap

Blacksheepdj

iTrader: (88)

Remember that old commercial? You gotta shop around.

TireRack has them cheaper (click me)

03RallyLancer

iTrader: (6)

in HS you can run r-compounds cant you?

bobaab

iTrader: (5)

it depends on the group.

the main two groups i run with (SCCA Chicago and TSSCC) both have a Street Tire class, and within that are the AS, BS, etc. But other clubs like South Bend Region SCCA runs without a separate Street Tire class.

03RallyLancer

iTrader: (6)

ah around here all stock classes can run just about anything... and then once you start modding thats when you get the choice. And let me tell you r-compounds make a hell of a difference. Now im not saying im the greatest driver ever but im decent i do pretty good in STS and this guy was running a HS lancer with r0compounds and he was beating my time by like 2-3 sec and ive have my full suspension and falekn azenis

livelyjay

iTrader: (20)

I think you misunderstood what he was saying. You can run R-comps in the stock classes, but there is a seperate class set up for stock cars that run regular tires, it's called "Road Tire" or "Street Tire" depending on the region. I used to run road tire up in Rochester, and stock in Buffalo (Buffalo didn't have road tire class).

You should probably just have the alignment shop set you up with 1.5 - 2 degrees negative camber in the front and 1 - 1.5 degrees negative camber in the rear, and have them zero out the toe so you don't eat your tires daily driving.

03RallyLancer

iTrader: (6)

ah i see... around here stock cars run in there particular class no matter what tires they have on

bobaab

iTrader: (5)

thanks for the suggestions guys, i wasnt able to do all that before this past weekend but it will go on my "to do" list

but after this weekend (2 days of autocrossing), I realized how SOFT the stock suspension is after 67k miles...now im thinking of other things to get more grip...

1. buying those KYB's that are SUPPOSED to be out. it should be a good alternative to OEM's
2. an ITR owner/autocrosser suggested buying used OEM stocks w/ a lot less miles. he said he got great results at a very cheap cost.
3. buying that CUSCO lower tie bar and keep it a secret to the other autocrossers

but yea..those are the ideas I have right now...i will do an alignment sometime.

OH BTW, another one of my lugs snapped off while changing my wheels....that's the second time that's happened now...I hate wheel shops and their super strong impact wrenches..

jason33hs

iTrader: (1)

If you loosen every bolt on the front end and pry as hard as you can, you may get -0.2 to -1.0 negatvie camber on the front, but it really will depend on factory tolerances. I have -0.4 on the right and -0.6 on the left and there is nothing else left to gain. Camber bolts put you out of stock class in SCCA unless Mitsubishi has released "crash" bolts and a service bulletin on their use on the Lancer, which I have not heard as of now. Adjustable bolts are a definite no-no in stock.

After you try the above, have your shop align your toe to whatever Mitsu says. Mark the tie rod ends in relation to the shaft, and then dial some toe out at events remembering how many turns you made on the shaft. I use 1 1/2 turns which equates to about 3/8 out according to the shop I use. It helps on turn-in, but the car needs some struts with significant amounts of compression dampening and as we all know, they do not exist. Put the toe back after the event and drive home. No adverse tire wear unless you forget to turn it back!

My 0.02's, hope it helps.

R-compounds are your next step-2+ seconds on a 45 second course on my car.