This is why you need to inspect your end link bushings!
#17
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so I checked mine today and sure enough. One is busted. Im guessing I can still drive it like that though cant i? and it looks like that bottom part is broken off. the new part is the whole assembly right? I couldnt find the rear ones. The ESs dont have those in the back correct?
Does anyone know what that clip is in the second pic that im pointing at? its on the back of the rotor guard.
Does anyone know what that clip is in the second pic that im pointing at? its on the back of the rotor guard.
You can drive with it broken, but your car will have more body roll and you probably should fix it or have it fixed before it beats the snot out of your control arm.
THe ES does not have a rear sway bar, hence, no sway bar end links.
#18
That clip is to hold the brake line, isn't it? I believe so.
You can drive with it broken, but your car will have more body roll and you probably should fix it or have it fixed before it beats the snot out of your control arm.
THe ES does not have a rear sway bar, hence, no sway bar end links.
You can drive with it broken, but your car will have more body roll and you probably should fix it or have it fixed before it beats the snot out of your control arm.
THe ES does not have a rear sway bar, hence, no sway bar end links.
I picked up those bushings today and will be doing a writeup with pics when I install them either tomorrow or Wednesday.
One question though. Are you supposed to install them with the car jacked up or sitting down. I'm pretty sure it only makes sense to do it while its up but in the instructions it said to do it at ride height.
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^I'll take a pic and show you why. You have an ES, so did you get an aftermarket rear sway bar?
^^That clip can't be for the brake lines; that clip is on the back of the strut itself. Do jack up the car and put it on stands. When you get everything off and try to get it together and realize that you cannot get the nut on up top...switch out the center sleeve for that stock one (assuming it's not broken).
^^That clip can't be for the brake lines; that clip is on the back of the strut itself. Do jack up the car and put it on stands. When you get everything off and try to get it together and realize that you cannot get the nut on up top...switch out the center sleeve for that stock one (assuming it's not broken).
#21
Ok so I went out to swap them out thinking it was going to be a simple install. Wrong. Well first off I get the car up take the tire off and I go to unbolt it. Of course BOTH the nut and the head strip round on me. then I ended up having to cut it off. well the center sleeve was rusted on there so I banged on it with a hammer a bit to loosen it all to no avail. Then I finally grinded and twisted hard enough to give me room to push it down a bit to where the head of the bolt was sticking so I could cut it off. So it took me about an hour just to do that. Then I went and cut down that center sleeve that came with the kit to the size of the old one. I go to put it on there and of course I cant get it all the way through even though my center sleeves are slightly shorter than the original ones. Any ideas?
#23
Exactly. I just looked at mine and it is a lot easier. I have ramps I can run my car up onto to make it easier to crawl underneath.
#29
oh man I was going to but I got so frustrated. It was like 90 degrees outside with extreme humidity and I had problems with it being rusted on really bad so I kinda hacked it off and stopped there. I will probably give it another shot tomorrow after school and hopefully the other side will be easier so I could take some pics.
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W/o pics...but
1. Jack car up.
2. Remove front wheels.
3. Grab some WB-40/Liquid Wrench/etc and spray your rusted nuts! LOL
4. Grab a 14mm box-end wrench and a 14mm socket wrench.
5. No, the sway bar isn't pre-loaded at this point so it won't come flying up once you undo it. Righty tighty, lefty loosey!
6. If your bushings were smooshed something fierce, like my "bad" ones were...good idea to grab a knife (I used a box kinfe) and cut around the nut so you can access a good amount of the nut to torque on.
7. Remove both sides.
8. Either re-use the stock center sleeve or trim down the ES center sleeve close to stock length. (If you try to install the kit as-is, you'll see why this step is going to help you out!)
9. Install your new set.
10. Torque to the point at where you can feel/see the bushings starting to squish. The nuts in the kit are a "lock nut", so it "shouldn't" back out on you.
11. Enjoy those corners, and examine your tires every week there after to see if any abnormal wear appears.
1. Jack car up.
2. Remove front wheels.
3. Grab some WB-40/Liquid Wrench/etc and spray your rusted nuts! LOL
4. Grab a 14mm box-end wrench and a 14mm socket wrench.
5. No, the sway bar isn't pre-loaded at this point so it won't come flying up once you undo it. Righty tighty, lefty loosey!
6. If your bushings were smooshed something fierce, like my "bad" ones were...good idea to grab a knife (I used a box kinfe) and cut around the nut so you can access a good amount of the nut to torque on.
7. Remove both sides.
8. Either re-use the stock center sleeve or trim down the ES center sleeve close to stock length. (If you try to install the kit as-is, you'll see why this step is going to help you out!)
9. Install your new set.
10. Torque to the point at where you can feel/see the bushings starting to squish. The nuts in the kit are a "lock nut", so it "shouldn't" back out on you.
11. Enjoy those corners, and examine your tires every week there after to see if any abnormal wear appears.