This is why you need to inspect your end link bushings!
May 18, 2008, 06:53 PM
#78
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Any idea if these bushings could be causing the annoying squeeking from my suspension? Everytime I go over a speed bump, or even just getting in and out of my car, or coming to a stop or taking off. Front and back I get squeeks...could it be from bad bushings?
May 19, 2008, 01:13 AM
#80
yeah, watch out when you do the rears...just broke off both bolts with minimal effort on the sway bar bushings, and the end links are just as pitted as the front. I couldn't find them for less than $20 EACH. I was half tempted to buy the RRM rear sway bar with the nice links, but $230's just a bit much right now:-/
I love this crappy japanese steel, and the rubber bushings. It's like a timer goes off when the warranty is up and everything just starts melthing:-p
I love this crappy japanese steel, and the rubber bushings. It's like a timer goes off when the warranty is up and everything just starts melthing:-p
Jun 29, 2008, 06:34 PM
#84
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they made a big difference for my rears because the bushings were beat. i thought it would stop the sqeaking when going over bumps after replacing them, but it didnt.
im guessing its the teins
im guessing its the teins
Jul 1, 2008, 12:00 PM
#85
I've noticed NO difference, but from the majority of what i've read you only notice the difference between a completely broken one and a fixed one:-p I'd rather replace them before they break.
as for the rears, just save up and get the RRM rear sway bar. I replaced all the stock components except for the bar itself and haven't noticed a difference...and it still cost me $110. For $300 you get a beefier bar and better end link setups.
I still get a mild clunking out of the rear after redoing the sway bar and shocks. I noticed a lot of play on the lower control arms. Where they bolt up to the frame you can see vertical scrape marks from their traveling up and down...I'm wondering if one of those stabilizer bar bolt-ons will correct this.
If you're looking for rigidity, go with a beefier rear sway bar and front and rear strut bars. The front sway bar is pretty beefy and I don't really see a justifiable reason to go with an aftermarket one, unless you just want everything shiny and new under the car:-p
as for the rears, just save up and get the RRM rear sway bar. I replaced all the stock components except for the bar itself and haven't noticed a difference...and it still cost me $110. For $300 you get a beefier bar and better end link setups.
I still get a mild clunking out of the rear after redoing the sway bar and shocks. I noticed a lot of play on the lower control arms. Where they bolt up to the frame you can see vertical scrape marks from their traveling up and down...I'm wondering if one of those stabilizer bar bolt-ons will correct this.
If you're looking for rigidity, go with a beefier rear sway bar and front and rear strut bars. The front sway bar is pretty beefy and I don't really see a justifiable reason to go with an aftermarket one, unless you just want everything shiny and new under the car:-p
Jul 17, 2008, 09:17 AM
#86
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I am going to replace the two front end links today, the driver's side is completely gone like in your photo. I noticed that when I was changing my oil.
The dealer wanted $150 for each endlink
, found them locally for $18ea at a local auto parts store.
The ones you replaced are they with the spacer or solid one piece design ?, the spacers are easier to change if they ever break again, just cut and tap out !
The squeak you guys are getting in the back of your ES is from dirt in the rear sway bushing located on either side of the car before the wheels, just clean it out and spray some silicone lube into it and the squeaks will go away, this problem is more prone to places with winter road conditions, bloody dealer charged my $15 for 30 seconds of work, but hey I know what causes it the next time !
The dealer wanted $150 for each endlink
, found them locally for $18ea at a local auto parts store.The ones you replaced are they with the spacer or solid one piece design ?, the spacers are easier to change if they ever break again, just cut and tap out !
The squeak you guys are getting in the back of your ES is from dirt in the rear sway bushing located on either side of the car before the wheels, just clean it out and spray some silicone lube into it and the squeaks will go away, this problem is more prone to places with winter road conditions, bloody dealer charged my $15 for 30 seconds of work, but hey I know what causes it the next time !
Last edited by EdT; Jul 17, 2008 at 10:03 AM.
Jul 17, 2008, 06:30 PM
#87
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Pictures of the old and new end links. Install was done on a ramp.
I got the MOOG(Federal Mogul) kit #K90247 made in USA as pictured below, bushing is hard black polyurethane made by Ramcao and the sleeve is 1-3/16" long, red would have been nice like the ES kits !:
http://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part...C#.Uk5rWlP16Qw
http://www.ramcoa.com/products.php
Driver's side all rusted out, notice nothing of the bolt is left on top, the surprise I got and utter disbelief since this is the first time I have seen this happen on any cars I have owned
Passenger side, looks good from a far, but upon closer inspection the complete bolt head on the bottom has rusted away and the link is no longer attached to the lower stabilizer arm !
New end link installed on the driver's side, the bolt and sleeve is the same length as the OEM one so no need to cut the sleeve like the ES kit, but it a PITA to screw on the nut since there is not enough thread once all the bushing, sleeve and washers are on. I had to take off the bushing on the top and compress the other bushings with just the washers and nut on top to soften the bushing up a bit so 2-3 thread are exposed once I remove the nut. I also applied Rust Check Green to the entire bolt, inside the sleeve and on the washers, the sleeve is the Achilles Heel in this type of link if the sleeve are rusted out, the entire assembly will become loose. Do not tighten all the way as you will need some space/distance between the sway bar and the lower stabilzer on the other side to fit all the bushings and washers on.
New end link on the passenger side. Once all the bushing and washers are on, tighten the nut on the link on the other side to compress the swaybar to help the bolt on the link on the passenger side to compress so you can get 2-3 threads exposed to catch onto the nut.
I got the MOOG(Federal Mogul) kit #K90247 made in USA as pictured below, bushing is hard black polyurethane made by Ramcao and the sleeve is 1-3/16" long, red would have been nice like the ES kits !:
http://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part...C#.Uk5rWlP16Qw
http://www.ramcoa.com/products.php
Driver's side all rusted out, notice nothing of the bolt is left on top, the surprise I got and utter disbelief since this is the first time I have seen this happen on any cars I have owned
Passenger side, looks good from a far, but upon closer inspection the complete bolt head on the bottom has rusted away and the link is no longer attached to the lower stabilizer arm !
New end link installed on the driver's side, the bolt and sleeve is the same length as the OEM one so no need to cut the sleeve like the ES kit, but it a PITA to screw on the nut since there is not enough thread once all the bushing, sleeve and washers are on. I had to take off the bushing on the top and compress the other bushings with just the washers and nut on top to soften the bushing up a bit so 2-3 thread are exposed once I remove the nut. I also applied Rust Check Green to the entire bolt, inside the sleeve and on the washers, the sleeve is the Achilles Heel in this type of link if the sleeve are rusted out, the entire assembly will become loose. Do not tighten all the way as you will need some space/distance between the sway bar and the lower stabilzer on the other side to fit all the bushings and washers on.
New end link on the passenger side. Once all the bushing and washers are on, tighten the nut on the link on the other side to compress the swaybar to help the bolt on the link on the passenger side to compress so you can get 2-3 threads exposed to catch onto the nut.
Last edited by EdT; Oct 4, 2013 at 12:20 AM.
Jul 17, 2008, 09:27 PM
#88
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OEM parts
Are the OEM ones made in Taiwan ?, I can't make it out on the label. For $150CAD I seriously think they are a rip off !
The washers are molded into the bushing and the holes are too big, once there is compression the tampered sleeve self center into the washers, problem is that once corrosion enlarges the size of the washer and diminishes the sleeves diameter it is game over !
Are the OEM ones made in Taiwan ?, I can't make it out on the label. For $150CAD I seriously think they are a rip off !
The washers are molded into the bushing and the holes are too big, once there is compression the tampered sleeve self center into the washers, problem is that once corrosion enlarges the size of the washer and diminishes the sleeves diameter it is game over !
Last edited by EdT; Jul 18, 2008 at 10:29 AM.
Jul 18, 2008, 01:42 PM
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I took it for a quick spin and the first thing that I really noticed is how much stiffer turning the steering wheel is, I guess the links pushes down on the stabilizer and cause more resistance. The other thing is less body roll on turns and braking, but the best thing is the tapping noise which I thought was the dust shield disappeared ...