Oi, well, just attempted this...tried the sway bar bushings, first. Snapped the stupid studs off, and they're wonderfully stamped into the bracket. I could weld them out and then fish around for some bolts and nuts, but I'm just holding off on the entire thing until I get replacement brackets...just do it all up.

Tried the end link bushings on the rear, feel like I'm about to break it because it's seized so much. I'm going to wait until I get replacements before ending up in a hole.

Oi, these cars rot out FAST in the northeast.

 

Okay, so I got the new energy suspension 13mm rear sway bar bushings and brackets in. Keep in mind, Universal Fit =PITA. You have to dremmel/drill out the openings on the brackets to fit over the studs mounted to the body. And don't even think about using the stock nuts, go to Lowe's/Home Depot and get some 8mm lock nuts, as you won't be able to fit washers or lock washers in the area. The Passenger side requires you to drop the muffler to get at it, so keep that in mind. Luckily I was doing my exhaust when I did this, so that wasn't a huge deal.

Also, my nuts ended up being 13mm, yours might be different. Plan on having a short half-wrench available for the top nuts, as you won't be able to get at the driver's side with ANYthing else after the first few turns. ALso, plan to take the bushings out and bend the bracket so it closes the gap some...it'll make the bushings a tighter fit, but you'll be able to get both nuts on then. I just angled it on a work bench and whacked it a few times with a large wrench to do it. Don't even think the old brackets will work, the new bushings are MUCH thicker.

Also plan on replacing your actual end links...and be CAREFUL when you put them on, as tearing the rubber on them is EASY.

The setup works good, the rear is definitely more stable now...My goal is to do this as a temporary (>2yrs) fix until I get around to buying the RRM rear sway bar that has better end links and a MUCH thicker diameter. The 13mm bar is barely able to do it's job, hell you can just about flex it yourself with enough pressure.

Here's some pics of the old end links vs. the new ones

 

you can get all the necessary washers on these, you might have to disconnect the sway bar end links if you're going to do it to get the right angle. Beware if you do this, though, depending on how beat your end links are you might want to go ahead and plan on replacing them...

 

i know im not slvroz but i also have the tie bar, i did this before upgrading my sway bar and i have to say you really feel it especially around tight turns... its good and worth getting if your into suspension

 

+5 on the input

I've been debating getting this ever since I got under the car and saw the friction scrapes from the play in the lower control arms where they connect to the frame. If I can SEE that much movement, then surely something that stabilizes it will be something I can FEEL.

 

Where did you pick the new ones up from?

 

rockauto.com

got the rest of the parts from mitsubishiparts.net

rockauto.com was cheaper...

 

I did the end links and the sway bar bushings. Definitely don't recommend doing the energy suspension sway bar bushings, as they move the sway bar to the point where your stock end links will BEND. I've had them on for about a year, and just noticed that my driverside end link is severely bent.

It was a good experiment, but now I know better and am just going to replace the whole unit with the one offered through RRM.

 

Where can I find an RDD tie bar like the one in the picture?

 

I want a lower tie bar. Where can I find one in the Tampa Bay area?

 

RDD is not in business anymore.
Some people associated cheaply priced with cheaply made and he had to stop producing them.

It's too bad, cause those bars were rock solid!

 

Damn, I guess I can try to find a used one.