Rear Energy Suspension End link install
Jan 13, 2008, 03:11 PM
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Rear Energy Suspension End link install
There was much success with the front install thread, so I thought I'd help some others out with the just as simple rear end link install...in fact, these are easier to access, so it's probably easier.
It'd be a good idea to jack up the rear and support under stands. Then you can use the jack later to help lift the trailing arms to install the bushings.
*Jack stands x2
*Hydro jack
*10mm box-end wrench
*Deep well 12mm socket wrench
*Energy Suspension universal bushing set P/N #9.8105R
I jacked up the car under the framing right behind my RDD lower tie bar. Place stands. Lower car. Using the deep well socket, remove the nut underneath the link while using the box-end wrench to hold onto the upper part of the link. You don't wanna break that piece! There is not enough tension in the sway bar to harm anything at this point. Remove the other side link nut. The sway bar should be able to move freely now. Using the ES bushings I sourced from AUTOZONE for $11.99, replace the OE bushings. Using the jack, lift the lower arm up until the top bushing is flush with the factory concave washer. Using one ES washer between the other new bushing and the lower arm, install the OE nut. At this point you might have to maneuver the link around to get enough threads to thread on the nut. I tighten the nut until I could only see one thread remaining inside the nut...you definitely don't want to over-tighten. And remember, these bushings are taller than the OE ones...so don't worry when you don't see as much thread through the nut as it was stock. Do the other side with the exact same process.
Enjoy my installed pics!
It'd be a good idea to jack up the rear and support under stands. Then you can use the jack later to help lift the trailing arms to install the bushings.
*Jack stands x2
*Hydro jack
*10mm box-end wrench
*Deep well 12mm socket wrench
*Energy Suspension universal bushing set P/N #9.8105R
I jacked up the car under the framing right behind my RDD lower tie bar. Place stands. Lower car. Using the deep well socket, remove the nut underneath the link while using the box-end wrench to hold onto the upper part of the link. You don't wanna break that piece! There is not enough tension in the sway bar to harm anything at this point. Remove the other side link nut. The sway bar should be able to move freely now. Using the ES bushings I sourced from AUTOZONE for $11.99, replace the OE bushings. Using the jack, lift the lower arm up until the top bushing is flush with the factory concave washer. Using one ES washer between the other new bushing and the lower arm, install the OE nut. At this point you might have to maneuver the link around to get enough threads to thread on the nut. I tighten the nut until I could only see one thread remaining inside the nut...you definitely don't want to over-tighten. And remember, these bushings are taller than the OE ones...so don't worry when you don't see as much thread through the nut as it was stock. Do the other side with the exact same process.
Enjoy my installed pics!
Last edited by SLVROZ_03; Jan 13, 2008 at 06:50 PM.
Jan 13, 2008, 07:13 PM
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^LOL, yeah...those 90 degree links are horrid! But this car is seeing it's last year with me. So I'm just fixing it up everything for the interested prospective buyer. Wish me luck! Still have the FG spoiler to paint and little odds and ends to finish.
Jan 16, 2008, 09:53 AM
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I think you put the washer on the wrong side... They need to face the bolt.... If you look at the stock rubber, they have steel washer molded in one side.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=312131
The cross member go bettew the 2 rubber.
Order:
Tie rod bolt
Washer
Rubber
Cross Member (Or control arm...)
Rubber
Washer
Nut.
The nut will past thougth the nut if you leave it that way.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=312131
The cross member go bettew the 2 rubber.
Order:
Tie rod bolt
Washer
Rubber
Cross Member (Or control arm...)
Rubber
Washer
Nut.
The nut will past thougth the nut if you leave it that way.
Last edited by Redlancer; Jan 16, 2008 at 09:58 AM.
Jan 16, 2008, 01:53 PM
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Well, I replaced struts and springs with these all at the same time...so I can't really compare before and after on just the bushings. But I know when I just did the fronts, it definitely helped!
^I see where you're coming from, but the length of the link itself limits the number of washer you can put on. With the way I installed them, you can just barely half-thread on the factory nut and wrench it the rest of the way. If you'd add one or more washers, you couldn't thread on that nut. Trust me, I tried!
The pack came with 8 bushings and 8 washers, so if it is indeed incorrect and breaks, rips, tears, sinks...I'll switch it up. Thanks for the input!
^I see where you're coming from, but the length of the link itself limits the number of washer you can put on. With the way I installed them, you can just barely half-thread on the factory nut and wrench it the rest of the way. If you'd add one or more washers, you couldn't thread on that nut. Trust me, I tried!
The pack came with 8 bushings and 8 washers, so if it is indeed incorrect and breaks, rips, tears, sinks...I'll switch it up. Thanks for the input!
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Jan 16, 2008, 01:57 PM
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The washer you see on the arm in the pic is the factory "washer". What I was just thinking though is that I could invert the bushings, and that could allow enough room for a washer at the top. I'll see what the bushings look like after a week of driving and report back and either fix it or leave it.
Jan 16, 2008, 05:19 PM
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The washer you see on the arm in the pic is the factory "washer". What I was just thinking though is that I could invert the bushings, and that could allow enough room for a washer at the top. I'll see what the bushings look like after a week of driving and report back and either fix it or leave it.
If you do a lot of cornering... That will be the case really fast.
Apr 24, 2008, 10:46 AM
#12
Anybody have the length of the bar to order a universal set? They've got them on eBay, if you follow the link above to the other thread, but you need to specify lengths...and the link only gives you the auction for the fronts. Anyone have info on the rears? If I had a second driver, I'd do it myself, but taking out the link just to get the size and putting it back is a lot of hassle just to get the measurements when it looks like some of you guys have already done it, or are doing it.
thanks!
thanks!
Apr 25, 2008, 10:59 AM
#13
did this last night. a little different to how you did it, but it all works the same.
anyway, my oem bushings where crap, and all tore up, plus every time i went over a bump it would clunk.
So yeh, i'm very very happy with how these turned out. The rear suspension doesn't clunk anymore, and handing is a little better. Not a massive amount, but the rear of the car does seem more solid. For $10 it's def worth doing, only took me 1/2 an hour
anyway, my oem bushings where crap, and all tore up, plus every time i went over a bump it would clunk.
So yeh, i'm very very happy with how these turned out. The rear suspension doesn't clunk anymore, and handing is a little better. Not a massive amount, but the rear of the car does seem more solid. For $10 it's def worth doing, only took me 1/2 an hour