Camber Problems
#1
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Camber Problems
I went to have my car aligned today and my camber was way off. I have Eibach springs and did a string alignment when I installed them and I am about to take a trip to Ocean City, MD. I knew my alignment wasn't perfect, but when we put my car on the laser table my camber could not be put into specs. My toe is good, and my camber in the rear is good now, but there is no ajustment in the front for camber and one side is neg 5 degrees and the other is positive 5. My question is do I need a camber kit like the one from RRM or is it possible there is another problem. the only reason I'm asking is because I thought only going down an inch wouldn't affect my camber that bad. I am very concernd with the fact that one wheel the bottom is cocked in and the other is out, if they both were out a little on the bottom I wouldn't mind but it just doesn't seem right. Thanx for any help.
#2
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With that amount of drop its a hit or miss as to needing a camber kit. Some cars will require one (sounds like yours does) and some wont. Every car is built a little differently than the one next to it on the assembly line. I would recommend the kit to so you can have the suspension properly aligned.
Properly set camber will allow the tire to work at its best, but not have the tire putting too much of its force on the inner edge while moving in a straight line. Tire wear and handling become a compromise. Less negative camber typically will reduce the cornering ability, but give very even wear.
Properly set camber will allow the tire to work at its best, but not have the tire putting too much of its force on the inner edge while moving in a straight line. Tire wear and handling become a compromise. Less negative camber typically will reduce the cornering ability, but give very even wear.
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My main Question is how do I have negative camber on one wheel and positive on the other (one wheel is on the inner edge and one wheel is on the outer edge)?
#4
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I don't think the Lancer has good camber specs from stock. My friend was complaining about wearing the outside of his tires in 15,000 miles, we found out he had like 1 degree positive on each side. When I put suspension on mine, we found the fronts to be 1/2 positive on one side, and 3/4 on the other (after the drop). The rears were at 1 negative each.
For a solution, my shocks have been step drilled (tapered) to allow adjustment to the front camber. This is nice that it allows me to use the original thick, strong bolts to hold the shocks on, but I was only willing to do it because the guy who did it has 30+ years of experience. Otherwise, camber plates by Tein are the best solution at $160 (fronts only, another $180 for the rears) if you can find them. The second best solution is the Progress camber kit from RRM at $99 I think, which replaces the bolts with adjustable ones and should work just fine. Hope that helps.
For a solution, my shocks have been step drilled (tapered) to allow adjustment to the front camber. This is nice that it allows me to use the original thick, strong bolts to hold the shocks on, but I was only willing to do it because the guy who did it has 30+ years of experience. Otherwise, camber plates by Tein are the best solution at $160 (fronts only, another $180 for the rears) if you can find them. The second best solution is the Progress camber kit from RRM at $99 I think, which replaces the bolts with adjustable ones and should work just fine. Hope that helps.
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Tein's are the pillow-ball type camber kits, where you adjust the camber from the top of the strut tower. From what I hear, it is the ideal setup, but it's expensive, and the only shop I ever saw offer went out of business a half year ago. Jic also uses the pillow-***** on their suspension kits, but I'm not sure if they are compatible with other shocks, or if they would sell them seperately. My setup is similar to the RRM/Progress kit, and I am very happy with how it works.
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