LancerEVA06

iTrader: (3)

ok... 02-06 Lancers have adaptive shift (no matter what tech, person, or autozone employee tells you). Somehow it's learning to shift hard. How are you driving the car? Are you a lead foot or grandma driver?

Complink

check the wiring harness that goes to the top of the transmission for any frayed or cut wires. the one with about 6 or 8 wires. i think your wiring or your solenoid(s) might be bad. the way they work is the less voltage they get, the harder it will shift. thats essentially how i made an electronic shift kit for mine.

tootall

I bought a used ecm. This weekend, I'm going to pull the harnesses that plug into the transmission and make sure they are clean with no obvious broken wires, etc. I'm going with the ecm idea since from what the dealer told me, the PCM (powertrain Controle Module) is actually imbedded the ecm. I called the dealer and gave them my vin number and they gave me the correct part number. Turns out there is a federal and a California version of the ECM and mine is the California version.
It still shifts very hard but when I pop the battery for ten seconds, it is enough to clear the problem and I get at least a full day of smooth shifting. LancerEVA06 is correct that they have adapting trannys. It seems as soon as it "learns" how I drive, it starts acting up. I've tried granny mode and racecar mode, but the results are the same.
I'll have the ECU on Tuesday and will post and update.

nandizle

Hey all im new here but after reading this I had to register. I have the exact same problem TOOTALL. I bought my lancer es 03 about a year ago and after a while I began to notice that the shifting was exactly how u described it, getting worse and worse. I thought for sure my transmission was going but the price on it would be way too much. After reading this, I got out this morning, unplugged the battery, turned the key to ON and left it there for about a minute. Started the car again and drove around for a while and was amazed at how it was shifting....just like new!! My guess is that the guy I bought it from knew of this problem and reset the ECM when he sold it to me lol pretty clever! Im assuming its only going to get back to how it was since thats what seems to be happening...but it does make me feel better because it seems like it has to be a computer problem or the solenoids, other wise the transmission would be bad even after the ECM reset..but I wouldnt mind fixing that instead of replacing the entire thing. Im anxious to know what your results are TOOTALL....

p.s. My temp control knob just broke off lol I cant believe its only a TSB and not a recall...anyway please keep us posted TOOTALL

joshisjamesbond

The tranny isn't any game to play around with that's for sure. I would definitely despite what anyone says or the color of the fluid change the tranny fluid. It is sooo easy to do and I would replace it with a synthetic fluid. If you only want to use OEM fluid then put some lubeguard in it.

This could be totally unrelated but my other car a 92 Mercury Sable had to have its tranny rebuilt and after they did it it would jerk sometimes when shifting. Turned out it was because they didn't rebuild the torque convertor.

Otherwise the owner's manual has a section where it says how to "reset" the tranny because it does have adaptive control on it. Dunno whether unplugging the battery does the same thing but I would give it a try.

joshisjamesbond

Hmm. Next time I won't give my input. There was a meeting this morning that I had to go to that was 50 miles one way and getting up there was fine. However, coming back I was in constant stop and go for about an 1 to hour and a half. During that time I noticed that between the 1st and 2nd gear shifting that it was kind of clunky. At one point it could be felt in the car. I'm not sure why it's doing it but I haven't ever felt that before. However like I said I hardly ever get into stop and go traffic that was that bad.

The transmission has been drained and filled with Amsoil about 10k ago. Before the trip I checked the fluid and it was halfway up on the cold side and after I got off the highway coming back it read just slightly above the top ring on the hot side. Fluid looks good, smells good, and seems to be at the right level.

Is it possible it's just the way the tranny is?

PS my car has an automatic tranny and it has 38k on it

joshisjamesbond

Okay, I might have a situation.

Today I changed my tranny fluid along with adding LubeGard however I did something really stupid. Basically I was on a limited time frame and after I was finished I began to roll the car off the ramps. However I totally forgot about the block behind the back tire. So when the car stopped moving I pressed on the gas a bit and then all of a sudden both ramps rolled out from under the vehicle at the same time. Yes, I feel stupid but usually I go to this shop and do it myself on the lifts or I just used the ramps on the grass but a friend insisted it was safer to do it in the garage...therefore I'm not used to having to check for a block behind the car.

My concern is if I could have done any damage in the process. Visually I don't see anything different but could there be something damaged internally. I'm probably just paranoid but I feel soooo bad for not remembering to take the block out from behind the tire. :bangs head on wall:

That's what I get for being determined and not taking my time.

Green_Bandit

iTrader: (25)

So any solution to this problem?

03lances

iTrader: (14)

If you changed the ecm and are still having the problem... Dont konw about the auto lancers but I had a 99 jeep grand cherokee ltd that would do the exact same thing and my input AND output shaft sensors were bad, after those were changed all was good... Although I dont know how or if at all the sensors in the two trannys have any relation

Green_Bandit

iTrader: (25)

Hopefuly I'll find out soon exactly what it is. My car is at a tranny shop now. It wasnt bad or about to explode but that hesitation was aggrivating me. I'll keep this thread updated...

nandizle

Thanks for the update bandit, I know what you mean. The car runs fine but that switch from one to the next gets really annoying. I just found out that my battery is dying cuz they had never checked it before in any of the routine "3000 point inspections" that go along with the oil change. So they told me that it has been dying for a while now and that I was basically just running off the alternator. I dont know if this has anything to do with the tranny problem but it did tick me off.

Green_Bandit

iTrader: (25)

Ok, update.

I took my car to a reputable transmission shop. Me and the tech went on a ride and I let him feel the problem. I told him me and some others think its the solenoids or maybe something simular since when the battery is disconected the problem temporarly goes away. He thought the problem was internal along with the rip off shop I went to before them. He seemed ginuine so I trusted him. He wasnt trying to rip me off.

Long story short he dropped the tranny and come to find out the tranny is in pretty good shape. He cleaned the solenoids, new torque converter, new disk, new gaskets and seal and OEM fluid. $700 Pretty good deal since the other shop quoted me at $2100 and transmissions can be pricey.

Put it back in and...

IT STILL DOES IT! WTF?! I basically have a new tranny and still have this issue but just not as bad.

The shop said they've pretty much done everything mechanical that they could have minus one or two things. It has to be "electrical" they said. Takeit to Mitsu and try to get the TCM reflashed to stock. (The TCM is stock just take it there to make sure its within OEM parameters)

So I call Mitsu, they said the TCM can't be "flashed" to be "worked on looked at" It has to be taken out and shipped out.

So...I'm a little stuck.

I think I'm going to do what the thread starter is/was/will/whatever doing and find a junked Lancer and get its TCM and swap out the whole ECU thats behind the dash.

Any thoughts from you guys? Lets get this solved because people here are going through it and lots of others are. (google it).

Its getting annoying...

03lances

iTrader: (14)

Ok here is what mitsu FSM for our car gives for a diagnosis procedure for this problem, some if not most I think you have alread tried:

INSPECTION PROCEDURE 9: Shift Shock and Slipping
.
COMMENT
If shift shock when driving are due to upshifting or
downshifting and the transaxle speed become higher
than the engine speed, the cause is probably abnor-
mal line pressure or a malfunction of a solenoid
valve, oil pump, valve body or of a brake or clutch.
.
TROUBLESHOOTING HINTS (The most likely
causes for this case
• Abnormal line pressure
• Malfunction of each solenoid valve
• Malfunction of the oil pump
• Malfunction of the valve body
• Malfunction of each brake or each clutch
• Malfunction of the PCM
DIAGNOSIS
Required Special Tool:
• MB991502: Scan Tool (MUT-II)
STEP 1. Using scan tool MB991502, check actuator test.
CAUTION
To prevent damage to scan tool MB991502, always turn the
ignition switch to the "LOCK" (OFF) position before con-
necting or disconnecting scan tool MB991502.
(1) Connect scan tool MB991502 to the data link connector.
(2) Turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position.
(3) Set scan tool MB991502 to actuator test mode for following
items.
a. Item 01: Low-reverse solenoid valve
b. Item 02: Underdrive solenoid valve
c. Item 03: Second solenoid valve
d. Item 04: Overdrive solenoid valve
• An audible clicking or buzzing should be heard when
the solenoid valves are energized.
(4) Turn the ignition switch to the "LOCK" (OFF) position.
Q: Are the solenoid valves operating properly?
YES : Go to Step 2.
NO : Repair or replace the solenoid valves. Refer to
GROUP 23B, Valve Body P.23B-61. Then confirm
that the symptom is eliminated.
AC006106AB
MB991502
16 PIN
SYMPTOM PROCEDURES <AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE>
TSB Revision
SYMPTOM PROCEDURES 23Ad-19
STEP 2. Check the hydraulic pressure.
(1) Measure the hydraulic pressure of each element. Check if
each hydraulic pressure is within the standard value. Refer
to P.23Ab-13, Hydraulic Pressure Test.
(2) If some elements are within the standard value and some
are not, recheck the symptom.
Q: Are all hydraulic pressures within the standard value?
YES : Go to Step 6.
NO : Go to Step 3.
STEP 3. Adjust the line pressure.
Adjust the line pressure. Refer to P.23Ab-26, Line Pressure
Adjustment. Then check the symptom.
Q: Is the symptom eliminated?
YES : The procedure is complete.
NO : Go to Step 4.
STEP 4. Replace the oil pump.
(1) Remove the transaxle.
(2) Replace the oil pump. (Oil pump can not be repaired). Refer
to GROUP 23B, Transaxle P.23B-8. Then check the
symptom.
Q: Is the symptom eliminated?
YES : The procedure is complete.
NO : Go to Step 5.
STEP 5. Disassemble and clean the valve body.
Check the O-ring installation bolts for looseness and the valve
body for damage. Repair or replace the faulty parts. Refer to
GROUP 23B, Valve Body P.23B-61.
Replace the bulb body assembly if the damages are thought to
be irreparable. Then check the symptom.
Q: Is the symptom eliminated?
YES : The procedure is complete.
NO : Go to Step 7.
AC001865
AC001860AB
VALVE
BODY
ASSEMBLY
SYMPTOM PROCEDURES <AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE>
TSB Revision
23Ad-20 SYMPTOM PROCEDURES
STEP 6. Check each brake and clutch.
(1) Remove the transaxle.
(2) Check the facing for seizure and piston seal ring for
damage and interference with retainer. Repair or replace
the faulty parts. Refer to GROUP 23B, Transaxle P.23B-8,
Underdrive Clutch and Input Shaft P.23B-45, Reverse and
Overdrive Clutch P.23B-47. Then Retest the system.
Q: Is the symptom eliminated?
YES : The procedure is complete.
NO : Go to Step 7.
STEP 7. Replace the PCM.
Q: Is the symptom eliminated?
YES : The procedure is complete.
NO : Start over at Step 1.

Green_Bandit

iTrader: (25)

GD! I think I stomped out this gremlin finally! Its the damn input speed sensor!

Check out this thread, but yeah. Mine had kept doing it and not throwing the code all the time and it finally did. I bought the $100 sensor replaced it myself! DO NOT PAY MITSUBISHI $200 TO DO IT! Buy it from the link in the thread posted. Any one can change it out. It takes 10 minutes to do. Been going 500+ miles and no problems so far. Normal and high RPM shifting is a go! Back to normal.

The input speed sensor! $100! Fix it yourself! Done!

03lances

iTrader: (14)

My theory was right after all huh? At least thus far, this was my issue the damn speed shaft sensor. Glad to hear you got it fixed