I was just wonderin when tranny fluid was supposed to be changed and where the drain plug and filler is at on the 03 Mitsubishi Lancer...it has 29500 miles and i think its needin a change...thanks for any help

 

You're right on. Trans is supposed to be serviced every 30,000 miles. Unfortunately, I'm at 25,000 so it might be a few months before I attempt it. But if you do it, post how easy/difficult it was.

 

it's easy. i've done it already. didnt change fluid til 60k cuz i didnt know (doh!) when i get back home i'll take pics of where the plugs are. the filler plug could be seen from the engine bay if you have a cai down low on the right side. it's a little obvious. the drain plug is a large flat hex parallel to the driver side wheel on the bottom of the tranny.

 

when you do it like that you're only changing 5 quarts of the tranny's fluid. if you really want to flush the tranny get it done at a shop by professionals with a tranny fluid flushing apparatus. what it does is intercept the fluid line right under the front bumper. then the mechanic runs the car, the new fluid naturally flows through the transmission, and pushes out the old fluid, into the same apparatus. this way all 10 quarts of fluid get changed. if you dont beleiev me that its the better way talk to a mechanic.

 

If you have an automatic transmission, that might be the route to go. I think the other posts relate to a manual transmission Lancer. It only holds 2.2 quarts of gear oil 75-90w. Remove the plug and let it drain, then plug it an refill through the vent plug.

By the way, the auto holds 7.7 quarts of Dextron fluid. Mitsu service manual states:

A/T FLUID REPLACEMENT M1231001000179
If you have an A/T fluid changer, use this changer to replace
the A/T fluid. If you do not have an A/T fluid changer, replace
the A/T fluid by the following procedure.
1. Disconnect the hose shown in the illustration which
connects the transaxle and the oil cooler (inside the
radiator). Place a container under the hose to collect the
discharge.
CAUTION
The engine should be stopped within one minute after it is
started. If all the A/T fluid has drained out before then, the
engine should be stopped at that point.
2. Start the engine and let the A/T fluid drain out.
(Running conditions: "N" range with engine idling)
Approximately 3.5 dm3 (3.7 quarts) of A/T fluid should
be removed.
3. Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the transaxle case
to drain the A/T fluid.
Approximately 2.0 dm3 (2.1 quarts) of A/T fluid should
be removed.
4. Install the drain plug with a new gasket, and tighten it to the
specified torque.
Tightening torque: 32 ± 2 N⋅m (24 ± 1 ft-lb)
CAUTION
Stop pouring if the full volume of A/T fluid can not be
added.
5. Add new A/T fluid (DIAMOND ATF SP III or equivalent)
through the oil filter tube.
Approximately 5.5 dm3 (5.8 quarts) of A/T fluid should
be added.
6. Repeat the procedure in Step 2. (to pump out the rest of the
contaminated A/T fluid)
7. Add new A/T fluid (DIAMOND ATF SP III or equivalent)
through the oil filter tube.
Approximately 3.5 dm3 (3.7 quarts) of A/T fluid should
be added.
NOTE: Check for contamination or a burnt odor. If the A/T
fluid is still contaminated or burnt, repeat Steps 6 and 7
before proceeding to Step 8.
8. Reconnect the hose which was disconnected in step 1
above, and firmly replace the dipstick.
9. Start the engine and run it at idle for one to two minutes.
10.Move the selector lever through all positions, and then move
it to the "N" position.
11.Check that the A/T fluid level is at the "COLD" mark on the
dipstick. If the level is less than this, add A/T fluid.
12.Drive the vehicle until the A/T fluid temperature rises to the
normal operating temperature [70 − 80°C (158 − 176°F)],
and then check the A/T fluid level again. The A/T fluid level
must be at the "HOT" mark.

Hope this helps.

Jason

 

Next time you guys change your tranny fluid (manual) try out Red Line's MTL Gear oil (MTL is their 75w90 oil).... It works fantastically!!! After about 1k miles I began noticing a HUGE improvement in my shifting, it's so smooth now you wouldn't believe it.... This will also attribute to a small power gain because it's full synthetic.... This stuff rocks, and it only costs about $30, and 20 minutes of your time.... You can find it on Ebay if your standard speed shop doesn't carry it.... I chose Red Line because their gear oils have been doing very well under severe tests.... James

 

got my redline from optauto.com...gonna change it tomorrow i believe...

 

Sweet... let me know if you need any help with the how to.... James

 

After hearing recommendations from Lawrence and now James, I think I'll go with that brand when I do my trans fluid in a couple months.

 

Check this out, here is a post in a forum I visit a lot... the oil analysis site..... They are referring to Red Line (RL)..... Gear oil....

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...;f=16;t=000610

 

Well...i found out what the problem was...because i have 195/50/15 series tires on my lancer...i overloaded the spider gears inside the transfer case...and consequently shot part of the gear through the bottom of the transfer case...so no paint job any time soon...to fix w/performance gears...$995.00...but thanks for all the help...

 

How would lower profile tires have anything to do with that? All you did was make the diameter equivilant to the Lancer ES, which uses the same tranny. I think someone's feeding you a load of horse $hit and doesn't wanna to warranty work.

 

Is that cause from your Mitsu dealer? I don't buy it. Changing aspect ratio will not cause undo wear on your transaxle except that it will turn a little more revolutions since the tire is not as tall. Gears don't just blow a case without a better reason than that.

If it is warranty, get a second opinion.

Jason

 

aight anyone here have a how-to for me to read? im at 30k and need this done. any suggestions on tranny fluid that i can get at the store and safety tips?

 

Check out my post above about Red Line MTL Gear Oil... You won't regret it... Ebay has it if you can't find it locally... There are some pictures posted regarding the drain bolt and fill bolt... I used a funnel with a short piece of clear vinyl tubing.... fill it with about 2.5 qts, then go really slow... when it starts leaking out past the bottom of the threads of the fill hole you're done. Just wait until it's done draining out of the fill hole, then replace the bolt and tighten.... A few hundred miles later your shifting will be so much smoother it's unreal... Email me if you need any more answers about the Red Line MTL Oil..... Just over $30 shipped on Ebay...