Replacing Clutch
Nov 22, 2011, 07:53 PM
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Replacing Clutch
Hey guys, my new clutch kit just arrived in the mail today and Ive been scouring the forums trying to find a decent write up on changing the clutch or a decent service manual. The one I downloaded for my 2002 OZ off of here came in like 6 zip files and never worked for me 
Anyways, I was wondering if anyone had a link to a good writeup or a manual for me to use. I've found several writeups but they dont get too specific and a lot are for the evos (which I can use as a reference I guess).
One of the problems I have is with the grease. I've seen in a few manuals that you have to grease parts but I don't know what type of grease to use! or where to get it! Also, is there a specific transmission fluid for my car?
Thanks guys!
Heres a few of the guides Im using
http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php...3_4&tech_id=27
Anyways, I was wondering if anyone had a link to a good writeup or a manual for me to use. I've found several writeups but they dont get too specific and a lot are for the evos (which I can use as a reference I guess).
One of the problems I have is with the grease. I've seen in a few manuals that you have to grease parts but I don't know what type of grease to use! or where to get it! Also, is there a specific transmission fluid for my car?
Thanks guys!
Heres a few of the guides Im using
http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php...3_4&tech_id=27
I thought this step by step HBZ posted might help as well.
This is what I used to make sure I didn't forget anything.
(Include a few notes by myself)
* well to take the axles out of the tranny you need to drain the tranny fluid take off the wheels then unbolt the struts then what you wanna do is remove that huge retaining nut in the middle of the spindle (it's 1-1/4") you'll need to hold the brake down to break this nut loose, unless you have air tools
* push that side of the cv through the back of spindle so you have the cv just conected to the tranny
* get a special cv joint removal tool (prybar lol) stick it in between the tranny and cv joint making sure you dont cut the cv joint seal (becareful not to pull to hard on the cv or it WILL pull apart. Just pry it instead
* once you have the 2 cv out remove all the sensor wiring from the mounts on the tranny (ecept the speed sensor one as this is a ***** to unplug)
* take out the 2 14mm bolt thats hold int he starter
* take out the 1 10 mm bolt that holds in the speed sensor
* take off the 2 shifter cables
* then take out the 3 17mm bolts that hold on the front cross member
* remove the 14mm nut/bolt from the front motor mount
* then take out the 14mm nut/bolt from the rear motor mount
* then remove all but one top and one bottom of the 14mm bolts that hold the tranny to the motor there are some cmoing from the drivers side and some from the pasenger
* get a tranny jack (if you have one a floor jack works good )
jack it up untill it GENTLY pushes up on the tranny
* after you have it up take off the nut bolt that holds the driver side tranny mount to the case and remove the 4 nuts that hold the mount to the tranny
* lower the tranny down so it hangs
* make sure there are no wiring harnesses left atached to the tranny
* pull the tranny out tword the driver side and it should be free
it doesent take much to get the thing apart if you get a smalll pry bar in between the tranny and motor it should come out rather easy if it doesent more then likely there is a bolt you missed that you just cant see
* remove the bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel
* remove the old pressure plate and disk put the new one on make sure the side of the disk that stick out farther goes twords the tranny
* put on a few of the bolts that hold the plate to the flywheel dont make em tight yet
* line up the disk with a clutch alignment took or with your eyes and finger (i dont use the tool personaly) mci2727 used a tool!
* after you line it up tighten down the bolts in the "star pattern" make sure you only tighten them to 14 +- 2 ft-lb they dont go on super tight youll break emm off
* then just put everythign back together
Pretty much covers it all.
You've got to kinda rock the tranny side to side to get the input shaft to line up right sometimes both going in and coming out.
As you can see, it's a big job.
You have to remove the tranny from the car.
Flywheel can then be unbolted from the car.
You will need to support the engine after you remove the mounts so it doesn't break anything.
You will have to bleed the clutch after install for sure.
My advice;
1: Try spending a few hours searching this forume before posting next time.
2: Either be OK with the car being on jack stands for a few days or pay someone to do it.
3: If you do it yourself, make sure you have all the parts and tools needed before you start.
This includes but is not limited to;
New slave cylinder/tob, clutch, new fluid to replace old (Royal Purple is good stuff).
4: If you have a little extra money, you should buy a light weight flywheel and ACT clutch.
The light weight flywheel really does pick up the car and ACT makes really good clutches.
5: have a buddy to help with removing and replacing the tranny.
It's not light.
This is what I used to make sure I didn't forget anything.
(Include a few notes by myself)
* well to take the axles out of the tranny you need to drain the tranny fluid take off the wheels then unbolt the struts then what you wanna do is remove that huge retaining nut in the middle of the spindle (it's 1-1/4") you'll need to hold the brake down to break this nut loose, unless you have air tools
* push that side of the cv through the back of spindle so you have the cv just conected to the tranny
* get a special cv joint removal tool (prybar lol) stick it in between the tranny and cv joint making sure you dont cut the cv joint seal (becareful not to pull to hard on the cv or it WILL pull apart. Just pry it instead
* once you have the 2 cv out remove all the sensor wiring from the mounts on the tranny (ecept the speed sensor one as this is a ***** to unplug)
* take out the 2 14mm bolt thats hold int he starter
* take out the 1 10 mm bolt that holds in the speed sensor
* take off the 2 shifter cables
* then take out the 3 17mm bolts that hold on the front cross member
* remove the 14mm nut/bolt from the front motor mount
* then take out the 14mm nut/bolt from the rear motor mount
* then remove all but one top and one bottom of the 14mm bolts that hold the tranny to the motor there are some cmoing from the drivers side and some from the pasenger
* get a tranny jack (if you have one a floor jack works good )
jack it up untill it GENTLY pushes up on the tranny
* after you have it up take off the nut bolt that holds the driver side tranny mount to the case and remove the 4 nuts that hold the mount to the tranny
* lower the tranny down so it hangs
* make sure there are no wiring harnesses left atached to the tranny
* pull the tranny out tword the driver side and it should be free
it doesent take much to get the thing apart if you get a smalll pry bar in between the tranny and motor it should come out rather easy if it doesent more then likely there is a bolt you missed that you just cant see
* remove the bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel
* remove the old pressure plate and disk put the new one on make sure the side of the disk that stick out farther goes twords the tranny
* put on a few of the bolts that hold the plate to the flywheel dont make em tight yet
* line up the disk with a clutch alignment took or with your eyes and finger (i dont use the tool personaly) mci2727 used a tool!
* after you line it up tighten down the bolts in the "star pattern" make sure you only tighten them to 14 +- 2 ft-lb they dont go on super tight youll break emm off
* then just put everythign back together
Pretty much covers it all.
You've got to kinda rock the tranny side to side to get the input shaft to line up right sometimes both going in and coming out.
As you can see, it's a big job.
You have to remove the tranny from the car.
Flywheel can then be unbolted from the car.
You will need to support the engine after you remove the mounts so it doesn't break anything.
You will have to bleed the clutch after install for sure.
My advice;
1: Try spending a few hours searching this forume before posting next time.
2: Either be OK with the car being on jack stands for a few days or pay someone to do it.
3: If you do it yourself, make sure you have all the parts and tools needed before you start.
This includes but is not limited to;
New slave cylinder/tob, clutch, new fluid to replace old (Royal Purple is good stuff).
4: If you have a little extra money, you should buy a light weight flywheel and ACT clutch.
The light weight flywheel really does pick up the car and ACT makes really good clutches.
5: have a buddy to help with removing and replacing the tranny.
It's not light.
Nov 22, 2011, 08:16 PM
#2
Thats pretty specific for a forum post write up and pretty accurate. All you have to grease is mainly to make your job easier. I have pulled out LOTS of transmissions. Only thing I grease is the shaft on the trans, the center of the clutch disc (where the shaft fits into) and the alignment pins on the bellhousing. Dont skip this it makes it much easier to slide in back in when you re assemble. You should have gottem a small packet of grease with your kit. I have downloaded that same manual you did. You have to make sure to save all the zip files to the same folder (just make a folder on your desktop to save it to) then open the first zip file and it will auto extract all zip files.
Even though its common sense I will still say it. Unhook battery. If you somehow didnt you would get reminded when you unhooked the starter lol. The speed sensor is not hard at all to disconnect. Best way is to get it from under the car. Just take a small (like jewelers flathead) screwdriver to pull off the metal clip then the plug will just pull off.
Even though its common sense I will still say it. Unhook battery. If you somehow didnt you would get reminded when you unhooked the starter lol. The speed sensor is not hard at all to disconnect. Best way is to get it from under the car. Just take a small (like jewelers flathead) screwdriver to pull off the metal clip then the plug will just pull off.
Nov 22, 2011, 09:00 PM
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Cool thanks for the tips, Im trying to redownload the files now. So I can just use all purpose grease right?
Also, I saw 75w90 synthetic transmission fluid is right for me! So after I buy these two things will I be ready to start? I have all the tools to do the job but just want to make sure there aren't any more fluids or anything Im missing lol!
EDIT: SO I redownloaded the files and Im still getting the same error:
You need to have the following volume to complete extraction:
C:\Users\Michael\Desktop\Lancer\2003 LANCER OZ FSM_part1 (2).rar
There is only a link to download 2003 LANCER OZ FSM_part1 there is no part 2 ???
Also, I saw 75w90 synthetic transmission fluid is right for me! So after I buy these two things will I be ready to start? I have all the tools to do the job but just want to make sure there aren't any more fluids or anything Im missing lol!
EDIT: SO I redownloaded the files and Im still getting the same error:
You need to have the following volume to complete extraction:
C:\Users\Michael\Desktop\Lancer\2003 LANCER OZ FSM_part1 (2).rar
There is only a link to download 2003 LANCER OZ FSM_part1 there is no part 2
???
Last edited by campbmic; Nov 22, 2011 at 09:10 PM.
Nov 22, 2011, 09:50 PM
#4
Did you delete the first batch you downloaded? The (2) makes me think its a second copy of the same file. There shouldn't be a (2) there it should just be part1, part2, part3 etc. You could try editing the flile names to get rid of that last number and try opening part1 again. Synthetic is not necessary you can use conventional unless you have been already using synthetic. Yes all purpose grease will do fine you just want a slippery surface so it slides in without too much trouble. Dont forget brake fluid to top off the res after you bleed the clutch. I just put my trans back in yesterday actually. Had a slave cylinder go bad. Which I just installed 2 months prior. This makes the 5th time I have installed a trans into this car since I bought it.
Another tip for you. Unbolt and remove the trans mount to the front and unbolt the centermember, then when unbolting the trans mount by the firewall unbolt and remove the bracket from the trans itself. These two are torque mounts and they do not support the weight of the engine/trans so you dont need to support it while removing them which gives you more room to work with while under there. It has 3 bolts that hold it on there that you can get with a closed end wrench 17mm pretty easily from underneath. You will have to take a pry bar and pry the trans towards the front of the car to have enough room to remove one of the bolts and pull the bracket out the topwise. This helps alot to be able to just slip the trans down and out nice a straight. Do not remove the mount on the top drivers side until you have the trans secure on a jack and are ready to pull the bellhousing bolts and remove the assembly.
Another tip for you. Unbolt and remove the trans mount to the front and unbolt the centermember, then when unbolting the trans mount by the firewall unbolt and remove the bracket from the trans itself. These two are torque mounts and they do not support the weight of the engine/trans so you dont need to support it while removing them which gives you more room to work with while under there. It has 3 bolts that hold it on there that you can get with a closed end wrench 17mm pretty easily from underneath. You will have to take a pry bar and pry the trans towards the front of the car to have enough room to remove one of the bolts and pull the bracket out the topwise. This helps alot to be able to just slip the trans down and out nice a straight. Do not remove the mount on the top drivers side until you have the trans secure on a jack and are ready to pull the bellhousing bolts and remove the assembly.
Nov 24, 2011, 06:54 PM
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Im having trouble getting the axles out. I have the car up in neutral with the e-brake on. Do I need to release the e-brake?
Im pretty sure I just need to pry the crap out of it but just want to be sure.
Im pretty sure I just need to pry the crap out of it but just want to be sure.
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Nov 25, 2011, 10:53 AM
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Ya the problem was coming from the drivers side axle getting it out of the transmission case. The passengers just slid out. So I got my crowbar and gave it a few pops.
So now Im taking off all the sensors and wiring leading to the case and already have the cross member off. Ive already taken off the front motormount withe the cross member. Do I need to support the engine when I take the second one off? Like with a jackstand or anything?
Thanks
So now Im taking off all the sensors and wiring leading to the case and already have the cross member off. Ive already taken off the front motormount withe the cross member. Do I need to support the engine when I take the second one off? Like with a jackstand or anything?
Thanks
Nov 25, 2011, 03:11 PM
#11
Ya the problem was coming from the drivers side axle getting it out of the transmission case. The passengers just slid out. So I got my crowbar and gave it a few pops.
So now Im taking off all the sensors and wiring leading to the case and already have the cross member off. Ive already taken off the front motormount withe the cross member. Do I need to support the engine when I take the second one off? Like with a jackstand or anything?
Thanks
So now Im taking off all the sensors and wiring leading to the case and already have the cross member off. Ive already taken off the front motormount withe the cross member. Do I need to support the engine when I take the second one off? Like with a jackstand or anything?
Thanks
You have to unbolt the starter since the bolts are part of the bellhousing bolts. You do not have to take the wires off of the starter just unbolt it and slide it back a little away from the bellhousing.
Nov 25, 2011, 09:55 PM
#12
The mount by the firewall? No support is needed for that mount. Only when you take the mount furthest over on the drivers side that you have to get from the top. This is the weight bearing mount so leave that one until last when everything else has been removed (except bellhousing bolts. Dont forget to support the engine when you slide the trans out as well.
You have to unbolt the starter since the bolts are part of the bellhousing bolts. You do not have to take the wires off of the starter just unbolt it and slide it back a little away from the bellhousing.
You have to unbolt the starter since the bolts are part of the bellhousing bolts. You do not have to take the wires off of the starter just unbolt it and slide it back a little away from the bellhousing.
and i apologize if this is insulting, but make sure you unbolt the bell housing from the engine block, and don't try to split the transmission case, cause there are bolts to split the tranny inside the bell housing facing the other way...i've heard of people cracking their transmission case by doing this. the bell housing if you noticed is also the other half of the differential case...
keep it up man...
Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; Nov 25, 2011 at 10:00 PM.
Nov 25, 2011, 10:02 PM
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Probrobly too late to be helpfull but I used this guid when I did mine & it worked out great & gives plenty of roo m to get the trans in & out.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...s-trivial.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...s-trivial.html
Nov 26, 2011, 02:40 AM
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Alright guys, thanks for all of the help! I just spent 6 hours on it and Im exhausted and now stuck...
So I have the transfer case still attached to the transmission. Im planning on taking both the transfer and the transmission out together without splitting them up. I have everything done to the point where the transmission case and the engine block are split with about 3/4" between the two all the way around, so there are no bolts holding the two together.
I have the engine supported by the passenger engine mount as well as a jack under it. I have the transmission supported by two jacks. The driver side engine mount has the 14mm bolt removed but still has the four 17mm bolts. The rear engine support has the 14mm bolt removed as well.
So by jacking and lowering the transmission I can get it to wiggle but I cant seem to get it any further out then this 3/4". In the 3/4" crack between the transmission case and the block I can see a large disk with teeth in it facing the bell housing. In front of the disk it looks like my clutch plate but im not for sure as I can not see very far into the bellhousing through the crack.
So, I'm worried that the weight of the transmission might be bending something that is still connected between the bellhousing and the block. Is there anything that I should be worried about in here? Its either something is stuck between the two, or its a problem with the rear/driver's engine mount. I didn't have a deep socket 17mm to take out the four bolts on the driver side engine mount, but I, going to pick one up tomorrow when I get back to tackling it!
Man this is a PITA haha but I guess the first time you do anything you have to learn. T%hanks for the info about the trans only weighing 80lbs too! Do I need a floor jack under it when I do get it finally free?
So I have the transfer case still attached to the transmission. Im planning on taking both the transfer and the transmission out together without splitting them up. I have everything done to the point where the transmission case and the engine block are split with about 3/4" between the two all the way around, so there are no bolts holding the two together.
I have the engine supported by the passenger engine mount as well as a jack under it. I have the transmission supported by two jacks. The driver side engine mount has the 14mm bolt removed but still has the four 17mm bolts. The rear engine support has the 14mm bolt removed as well.
So by jacking and lowering the transmission I can get it to wiggle but I cant seem to get it any further out then this 3/4". In the 3/4" crack between the transmission case and the block I can see a large disk with teeth in it facing the bell housing. In front of the disk it looks like my clutch plate but im not for sure as I can not see very far into the bellhousing through the crack.
So, I'm worried that the weight of the transmission might be bending something that is still connected between the bellhousing and the block. Is there anything that I should be worried about in here? Its either something is stuck between the two, or its a problem with the rear/driver's engine mount. I didn't have a deep socket 17mm to take out the four bolts on the driver side engine mount, but I, going to pick one up tomorrow when I get back to tackling it!
Man this is a PITA haha but I guess the first time you do anything you have to learn. T%hanks for the info about the trans only weighing 80lbs too! Do I need a floor jack under it when I do get it finally free?
Nov 26, 2011, 08:32 AM
#15
That mount with the four 17mm nuts have to come off in order to have the clearance to slide it out. I will usually remove them and the big bolt through the roller. Then I lower the trans enough to slide that mount up and out. It can be tight at times but should slide out pretty easy. The disc with teeth is the flywheel and yes the clutch pressure plate is bolted to that. I would push the trans back together before attempting to remove the mount otherwise you might not have the room to slide it up and out. As Cranswick stated you want to use something like a piece of wood on the jack to prevent damaging the oil pan. This way you can also adjust the angle of the engine as you remove/install the trans.
Last edited by 03lances; Nov 26, 2011 at 09:38 AM.