Blacksheepdj

iTrader: (88)

You can try to convince the dealership that the tires are defective/bad and see if they'll spring for new ones. Good luck, because a lot of dealerships would rather have you leave pissed than spend an extra $600 on tires.

Camber bolts are up to you. has flatly stated that they don't think the Lancer should ever need it's camber fixed. While that is remarkably stupid, they aren't likely to change that opinion anytime soon.

nunyas

iTrader: (2)

this is an interesting subject... I've only had my GTS for 6 days, and so far I haven't noticed any of the anomalies that have been described here. I've had bump steer, torque steer, and "rut" steer, but not the constant pull that would lead me to believe I have an alignment problem.

However, learning that the camber is non-adjustable, I believe one of the first mods I perform will be camber adjustment bolts. I may also add a caster adjustment mod if/when one comes available. Or maybe I'll do it all in one shot when I lower the car...

Blacksheepdj

iTrader: (88)

The nice thing is that you might not ever experience this. If the camber is set perfectly at the factory, you can just hope it never gets bumped out of alignment. Cars drive forever with no adjustment. It's a matter of luck.

nunyas

iTrader: (2)

This is true. My last car was a 1976 MGB. The toe was the only adjustment possible in the stock setup, and it drove fine without any pull or excessive tire wear right up until it was totaled last month.

However, since I plan to lower the GTS, I'd like to be able to adjust the camber back into spec, if the lowering the car happens to knock it out. Also, having an adjustable camber would give me more adjustment possibilities to fine tune the handling of the car, if I decide it under-steers too much or want better turn-in response.

Blacksheepdj

iTrader: (88)

Definitely suggest buying camber bolts then. Hell, I think everyone should buy them. But I'm also the guy that started a list of every suspension part available for the 08s, so obviously it's kinda my . . . focus.

fuz_dnz

iTrader: (4)

If I purchase coilovers will I also need the camber bolts? Everytime I lower ride height will I have to modify the bolts?

ashun22panda

so torque steer is perfectly normal huh?

correct me if i'm wrong about torque steer...

When going high speed, like 50-90 mph is when you feel a little pull to the left right? That is torque steer i'm assuming?

i don't notice any pull during local like 1-49, but on the high way, it's noticable when going at fast speed and staying at the same speed. ie: when going at 80mph and constantly staying at the speed, the car will pull slightly to the left and i would have to steer to the right just a little to get straight on the road...

is this torque steer?

nunyas

iTrader: (2)

eh torque steer is most noticeable when you accelerate HARD from a dead stop. I mean hard enough for the tires to be straining for traction. You don't necessarily have to be "pealing out" to feel it. If you're on poor pavement you'll be able to feel the steering wheel lurch one way then the other as the front tires gain and loose traction.

The torque steer in these cars isn't bad, but it's there and it's noticeable under the right driving conditions. If you're used to driving rear drive cars, it's an eye opener the first time you go WOT (wide open throrrle) from a dead stop.

What you described, IMO, sounds like the classic issue that most people are discussing here. A constant pull to the left... that is typically associated with an alignment issue. However, even with a "good" alignment the car is still pulling to the left. That is not torque steer.

Blacksheepdj

iTrader: (88)

Depends. Some coilovers come with camber plates. If you get those, you don't need the camber bolts. But if you get a kit that just has standard tophats, you definitely want camber bolts.

As for modifying the bolts everytime you change ride height . . . sorta. Every time you change the ride height of the car, you will be altering the alignment. At the same time, unless you have an alignment rack at your house, you wouldn't know HOW to modify the bolts. The basic answer is this - if you want to be safe and smart, get an alignment everytime you change the ride height.

ashun22panda

thank you very much, for a moment, i wish the torque steer was the reason why my car pulls =( blah.. alignment cost money.. ~70$ right? .. =(

Blacksheepdj

iTrader: (88)

Yeah, you're looking at $70ish.

Gotta do what you gotta do.

ashun22panda

will changing the control arm affect the alignment at all?

nunyas

iTrader: (2)

possibly... like mentioned above, anytime you alter your suspension, it's always better to play it safe and get the alignment checked.

Blacksheepdj

iTrader: (88)

Most likely, yes. But as I've seen on my car, even if you leave it 100% stock, you might still have gotten a bad stock alignment from . . .

As nunyas said, no matter what, you're better off grabbing the camber bolts and getting a professional alignment.

ashun22panda

you speak of professional alignment, which is from right?