So here's the scoop 02 es, been running fine. Got off work friday got in and no power just the clicking noise you get when it has a low batt.
So got a jump and it started although you could tell it was having a problem because it would barely stay started. Took it to the local autozone had them check the battery, it is only about 1 1/2 or less years old, it tested out fine. Had them check the voltage and it was low.

After much debate went ahead and swapped out the alternator. Take it up get it tested again and voltage looks better. Well, after driving it around etc... a bit and making sure it gets a charge back on it came back home. Went to bed, got up, put the key in to check the car and nothing but dim lights when its turned.

The only difference in the engine I have noticed it sounds like a whine is coming from under the intake area or possibly around the pulleys of course hard to tell exactly with all the other little noises and the noise of the air intake.

I'm baffled as all the cables seem good, and when its running the voltage test out ok. Any suggestions? My thought is that the battery may have tested out ok but may still be bad, although seems strange for it not being that old. Would the whine maybe have something to do with this, as I just noticed it since it died and got started again. Initially me and my bud thought, it was the bushings in the old alternator, but this doesnt seem to be the case. (I'll try to get a file posted soon as can of the whine)

Any thoughts are great, thanks.


Breakdown:

New Alternator
Battery Tested
Will start if jumped, or pushed
After started will charge a bit and start again
Stays started when cable removed from battery.
Does not start after sitting for about 4 hours or more.

To add when jumping just have to hook up the cables and it starts, don't have to give it any time etc...

 

I'm gonna put money on the battery. Even though it tested OK, it still might be draining voltage quicker than it should. Try changing out the battery.

You should also do a thorough cleaning of the battery terminals, terminal connectors and ground cable to chassis connections.

 

Yeah thats what I was thinking just took the battery in to Walmart (Oh how I hate the place), and they put it on their "machine" since its still under warranty. Since their machine tested it out ok they won't swap it out... buncha b.s. they get credit for it either way. My theory is that the battery will take a charge but will not hold a charge for more than a few hours.

Cleaned the cables and such before I hooked the battery back up yesterday morning after replacing alternator. Unless theres something I'm missing if the battery cables seem okay and the car will jump off of them, and the car runs without the battery hooked up after started then I dunno if there is much else other than the battery that it could be?

 

After further review of the receipt, I just noticed the test results... The battery is a 640cca battery, fully charged as I charged before I brought in.

Look at the receipt and it says battery is good, but the battery only put out 490 cca, if you ask me and you have a fully charged 640cca battery and its only pushing out 490cca that tells me something is not right with the battery.

Your thoughts?

 

I'm pretty convinced that it's the battery.

 

Luckily my van has the same exact battery in it, although it is good so I went ahead and swapped them, hopefully that will fix it. We will see in the morning.

 

Well after putting the battery I know is good in, gave it about 4 or 5 hours went to start it, and it acts almost dead... Maybe something is draining the battery while it sits with the key turned off? I'm kinda stumped on this now...

 

Make sure your dome lights turn off and check your trunk light. I agree that something appears to be draining your battery while it sits.

 

Dome/trunk both off, and checked for any noises while off, just to see if maybe could hear something on... any other ideas?

 

The latest addition to this... I noticed today, while starting it on break at work to let it charge. Started ok, has the whine sound in alternator/under intake manifoldish area. Revved it to 2k RPM to let it charge the batt for a few min. When I did this you could distinctly hear between 2k-3k rpm almost a crackling sound. It was pretty distinct and does not start until hit 2k rpm, stops once it goes under..

Anybody? Had a friend mention the voltage regulator, but don't think it would be having this sorta problem if that was bad? Seriously I'm unsure and anything is helpful.

 

Brief summary to touch on points of problem:

Was running fine and then then was dead when got off work friday.

New Alternator, good battery. (replaced swapped this weekend)

-Car starts and runs ok.

-When ignition key is turned on or car is turned off is a loud click from engine compartment

-While idling is a whine noise coming from general alternator area.

-When neutral idling and revved starting at 2k rpm is a crackling sound coming from engine compartment, generally same area alternator/lower back of engine/underintake manifold? if standing in front of car looking at engine.

-When car is turned off if not started approx after 4 hours battery is drained.

-If started like every 2 1/2 - 3 hours will start up and run and battery charges. Seems though something might be draining battery.

-Checked for noises while ignition off, none. No lights or other alternate things on that would be draining battery.

Hopefully that kinda combines everything and gives clearer picture of what is happening. Anything is helpful as I am willing to check/try whatever need to. Going to get back under car this evening and double check all the connections again, to make sure nothing may have loosened up. Although it seems this was happening prior to changing to new alternator/battery.

 

Do you have non stock radio or amp?

 

no, but if I did that definately would have been my next checking point

Only things i've done so far are:

Ram intake,
Taillights,
Tinted Windows

Somebody mentioned on another board that it might be a bad diode in the new alternator, my only concern is that would that be the cause of the noises its making now too.

 

Well i'm going to start today by replacing the new alternator again, neg cable, and pos cable, and probably alternator belt too, although the problem is i checked around for positive battery cable assemblies for this car, and the only one available with the fuse and all is through mfg for 200+ (not about to spend that on a cable). Only other option is crimping a new cable into the existing one getting the part from autozone....

although when i listened for a bit longer it almost seemed like the crackling sound was coming from the intake manifold area above the fuel rail area, but not from the ignition coils.

Although this still doesnt explain why it would be draining the battery... although I'm not all that savvy about the electrical system. I'm determined to fix this without having to pay an absorbant amount to put it in the shop.

 

Well when i first installed my subs and amp in my car, i did not have a solid ground, and it kept on dimming my lights like crazy.

I redid my ground wire, and now everything is nice. By redid i mean I made sure the surface was nice and smooth and that I bolted it on tight.

Try finding a new battery? From one of your friend or something.