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Old Oct 18, 2010, 09:55 PM
  #16  
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Preferably you would want to replace any gasket you separate. Head gasket is required. Mostly just basic tools would be needed plus a valve spring compressor. If it truly does start and idle fine sometimes then I would guess you are very lucky and did not bend any valves. I would check comp. on all 4 cylinders and report back. If you have never done this before I recommend getting a buddy who does know to help as one wrong move could cost you the engine. Also you will have to measure your head bolts We have torque-to-yield bolts meaning they stretch when they are installed. If they are too long you will have to replace them as well. The limit for the bolts are 96.4mm or 3.8", anything this long or longer will require replacement. I suggest you download the FSM for your car from senate if you do not have one already.
Old Oct 19, 2010, 08:05 AM
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I should have been more specific. It always sounds rough and the engine shakes a bit more than usual. But sometimes the rpms stay normal sometimes they bounce from 400 to 1000 and sometimes it just wont keep itself running.
Old Oct 19, 2010, 07:04 PM
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Ok, compression test showed that one of the cylinders has 0 compression.

Last edited by WisemanWV; Oct 19, 2010 at 07:17 PM.
Old Oct 19, 2010, 07:20 PM
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Looks like your pulling the head. I am not sure the level of your mechanical prowess but you will probably want to take the head in and have it inspected for any damage other than bent valves. Pistons might very well have been damaged as well so keep that in mind.
Old Oct 19, 2010, 09:07 PM
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don't laugh....but i've done this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAU-omdBmI8 on a 4 wheeler, a mower, and a tractor...and it's worked each time. I typically take compressed air, and wrap a rag around my hand, and then see if any air blows through the intake or exhaust valves. I realize the cost of valves are not that expensive though.....so, use compressed air to detect the bent ones and buy new if you like.
Old Oct 19, 2010, 11:07 PM
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Im know a little bit about what i'm doing but my father and my brother know alot more than i do about it. I'll keep this thread updated with how its coming along.
Old Oct 19, 2010, 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by HornstarBU
don't laugh....but i've done this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAU-omdBmI8 on a 4 wheeler, a mower, and a tractor...and it's worked each time. I typically take compressed air, and wrap a rag around my hand, and then see if any air blows through the intake or exhaust valves. I realize the cost of valves are not that expensive though.....so, use compressed air to detect the bent ones and buy new if you like.
the video won't work for me
Old Oct 20, 2010, 09:19 AM
  #23  
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ok, I just got off the phone with the dealer and thought i would share the torque specs for the head bolts incase anyone ever needs to know.

Start from center and tighten to 55lbs
fully loosen
tighten to 15lbs
tighten all the bolts quarter turn (start from center)
then tighen another quarter turn (start from center)

Ive never heard it done quite like this but oh well.
Old Oct 20, 2010, 07:36 PM
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it is done like this due to the torque to yield bolt we use.
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