what oil to use????
#7
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Originally posted by saltydogfish
moble 1 full synth 5w-30
moble 1 full synth 5w-30
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#8
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I know this is a sensitive topic, as I belong to another enthusiast web site where oil engineers banter back and forth as such. With that said here goes:
For a turbocharged engine:
Use the HIGHEST quality "true" synthetic you can get your hands on that you are willing to pay for. As FYI, Castrol Syntec is not a "true" synthetic. Syntec is actually created from a super reprocessed petroleum (dino oil based) product. Mobil oil actually sued Castrol several years back that they were falsely stating that Syntec was a "synthetic" oil, since Mobil 1 was a "true" or chemically created (no dino oil) synthetic - which costs much more $$$ to produce.
Mobil1 is a very good to excellent true synthetic product. I used to use it. However, if you're willing to pay a few bucks more, and for a little more peace of mind, AMSOIL makes some of the highest quality "true" synthetics on the market.
AMSOIL caters to "oilheads" or "oil lunatics" such as myself and people who run extended drain intervals that don't change their oil until 10 to 20k miles. However, with higher performance / small displacement cars available (such as WRX and hopefully the Evo), AMSOIL has got a new market segment to go after. Their oil(s) take the most punishment under the worst high heat / high load conditions among domestically available oils - at least from what I've seen of their testing results on their website.
I'd go with a 10W-30 for a turbo engine, unless an owner's manual states otherwise. If you lived in Alaska in the dead of winter where it goes to 20 below, I'd switch to a 5w-30 so that the oil would have a lower temperature that it could flow freely at - meaning that it reaches the turbo bearings sooner after you start the car.
Best regards,
DF
For a turbocharged engine:
Use the HIGHEST quality "true" synthetic you can get your hands on that you are willing to pay for. As FYI, Castrol Syntec is not a "true" synthetic. Syntec is actually created from a super reprocessed petroleum (dino oil based) product. Mobil oil actually sued Castrol several years back that they were falsely stating that Syntec was a "synthetic" oil, since Mobil 1 was a "true" or chemically created (no dino oil) synthetic - which costs much more $$$ to produce.
Mobil1 is a very good to excellent true synthetic product. I used to use it. However, if you're willing to pay a few bucks more, and for a little more peace of mind, AMSOIL makes some of the highest quality "true" synthetics on the market.
AMSOIL caters to "oilheads" or "oil lunatics" such as myself and people who run extended drain intervals that don't change their oil until 10 to 20k miles. However, with higher performance / small displacement cars available (such as WRX and hopefully the Evo), AMSOIL has got a new market segment to go after. Their oil(s) take the most punishment under the worst high heat / high load conditions among domestically available oils - at least from what I've seen of their testing results on their website.
I'd go with a 10W-30 for a turbo engine, unless an owner's manual states otherwise. If you lived in Alaska in the dead of winter where it goes to 20 below, I'd switch to a 5w-30 so that the oil would have a lower temperature that it could flow freely at - meaning that it reaches the turbo bearings sooner after you start the car.
Best regards,
DF
Last edited by diesel_fan; Aug 3, 2002 at 09:47 AM.
#10
Question...
Can the oil actually boil off inside the motor? I ask this because my oil level is going down slowly but there are no apparent leaks...I think its because (since my oil line was too short) is touching my downpipe and may be heating my oil more then the oil can take. Can this be possible. In my engine now is Castrol 10w-30 synthetic. Thanks.
Can the oil actually boil off inside the motor? I ask this because my oil level is going down slowly but there are no apparent leaks...I think its because (since my oil line was too short) is touching my downpipe and may be heating my oil more then the oil can take. Can this be possible. In my engine now is Castrol 10w-30 synthetic. Thanks.
#12
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Originally posted by zlancer
Question...
Can the oil actually boil off inside the motor? I ask this because my oil level is going down slowly but there are no apparent leaks...I think its because (since my oil line was too short) is touching my downpipe and may be heating my oil more then the oil can take. Can this be possible. In my engine now is Castrol 10w-30 synthetic. Thanks.
Question...
Can the oil actually boil off inside the motor? I ask this because my oil level is going down slowly but there are no apparent leaks...I think its because (since my oil line was too short) is touching my downpipe and may be heating my oil more then the oil can take. Can this be possible. In my engine now is Castrol 10w-30 synthetic. Thanks.
as for oil. i use the cheap stuff in my car. i don't really care for synthetics. i change my oil on race day...i change my oil like every 2k miles. can't afford to cahnge synthetic every 2k miles. so cheap stuff for me. if you were changing ur oil on longer intervals, better oil for u.
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