Trade evo for a supra?
Jan 28, 2008, 02:36 PM
#18
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ill speak from 1st hand experience, i traded my 03' for a 94 stock supra, modded to 425whp and got sick of it and got an 06' evo. heres why i believe you shouldnt be buying a supra....
1.an evoX may be heavier then a 9 but it FEELS light. supra on the other hand feels as heavy as it is.
2.you have absolutely no feedback on the steering.
3.most think of supras has indestructible monsters... well they arent. especially the stock twin's which have an expected life of about 50k miles once you crank the boost even somewhat above stock levels (like 12+)
4.you can put monster rear's 285's+ but you STILL will get plenty of wheel spin.
5.when you go over speedbumps, your car will creek like a grandfather w/ a back problem. if you get a hardtop its not as bad. targa top rubber lining sucks.
6.targa top rubber lining will often leak unless kept in top condition.
7.headlights WILL fade unless you have the euro glass lights(heavier).
8.interior looks OLD. i dont mind simple but the dull green interior lighting will remind you the age of your car.
9.oil change on an evo? 15 minute job. supra? try double that minimum.
10.rust issue on the hatch
11.brakes will never be as confidently firm as an evo, though they still work well.
12.car feels like a boat, you will never have fun UNTIL you step on the gas. evo is fun simply driving around or beating the crap out of it.
if i was made out of money, i'd consider getting another. its still a fantastic car. i'd even consider downgrading to an NA-T to save some $$ but i'd never trade up my 9 for a supra TT. doesnt compare in the fun factor.
1.an evoX may be heavier then a 9 but it FEELS light. supra on the other hand feels as heavy as it is.
2.you have absolutely no feedback on the steering.
3.most think of supras has indestructible monsters... well they arent. especially the stock twin's which have an expected life of about 50k miles once you crank the boost even somewhat above stock levels (like 12+)
4.you can put monster rear's 285's+ but you STILL will get plenty of wheel spin.
5.when you go over speedbumps, your car will creek like a grandfather w/ a back problem. if you get a hardtop its not as bad. targa top rubber lining sucks.
6.targa top rubber lining will often leak unless kept in top condition.
7.headlights WILL fade unless you have the euro glass lights(heavier).
8.interior looks OLD. i dont mind simple but the dull green interior lighting will remind you the age of your car.
9.oil change on an evo? 15 minute job. supra? try double that minimum.
10.rust issue on the hatch
11.brakes will never be as confidently firm as an evo, though they still work well.
12.car feels like a boat, you will never have fun UNTIL you step on the gas. evo is fun simply driving around or beating the crap out of it.
if i was made out of money, i'd consider getting another. its still a fantastic car. i'd even consider downgrading to an NA-T to save some $$ but i'd never trade up my 9 for a supra TT. doesnt compare in the fun factor.
Jan 28, 2008, 02:48 PM
#19
i have a friend that has owned 6 supras, currently has two one is a track car, and he loves them. he also owns his own shop and builds them all day long. i can tell you now from working down there that supras are a great deal more expensive to build. I mean quality things not ebay stuff. We have built cars ranging from right around 1400hp to around 400. It is crazy at how much good parts cost for those cars. If you want shoot me a pm and i can give you there web address and you can contact them. Where is the car located that you are wanting to buy? I can almost guarantee it has been wrecked in some way. I can also say that there is bound to be something wrong with it engine wise. People in the supra world do not seem to be to big on honesty when selling their cars. Check compression, look at the plugs while they are out, listen for valve train noise. The drive train more than likely has no problems. The rear diff on those are good to around 1000whp, the tranny is awesome. Check the power steering rack. Check to make sure the water pump is good, verify the front main is good, make sure it has red coolant from toyota in it. There are so many different things to check before buying one. If you need any help PM me
Jan 28, 2008, 03:03 PM
#22
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I wouldn't. The car is highly overrated these days. They can make boat loads of power, but what good is 600+ whp in a RWD car.
I've gotten to drive a few that were BPU++ and they had a lot of wheel spin for the power they were making at that point. As others have said, it looks OLD on the inside, and you have all the issues with an old car as well. Its also cheaper to make an Evo as fast or faster (within reason)...with far more usable power. But in the end, its up to you.
I've gotten to drive a few that were BPU++ and they had a lot of wheel spin for the power they were making at that point. As others have said, it looks OLD on the inside, and you have all the issues with an old car as well. Its also cheaper to make an Evo as fast or faster (within reason)...with far more usable power. But in the end, its up to you.
Jan 28, 2008, 04:25 PM
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I would suggest driving one before you decide to switch. It is a totally different car. It is a few hundred pound heavier than the Evo and you will feel it. The Supra is my daily driver right now (tho I am looking for an Evo as a daily) and it is great. Been single turbo for the last 50K miles without any problems, tho I do beat on it, so that helps I'm sure.
The problem will be finding a decent one for a decent price. As you know, these cars are pretty rare and good examples are hard to find. Also, since they are getting kind of old now, banks will not loan you very much on them, so you will need a good amount of cash on hand. I would suggest going to supraforums and spend some time searching the forums there. Pretty much any question you could possibly have on Supras has been asked and answered there.
Here is a great list of things to look for that someone on Supraforums posted:
-Have someone cold start the car while you stand behind it watching the tailpipe, and look for gray smoke with a blue-ish tint (easiest to see in direct sunlight).
-Let the car warm up and continue to stand behind the car checking for smoke.
-Now move to the front of the car, and open the hood. Listen for bad noises (Noticeable Injector Ticking is Normal).
-Now go back and watch the tailpipe for smoke, have someone blip the throttle, while you watch for smoke, let it idle between the blips.
-Now do the same but have them mash the gas and rev it up till like 5000rpm or so.
-Now have a friend follow behind you in another car while you go for a test drive.
-Have him watch for smoke while you drive.
-Put it in 2nd gear, let the rpm drop to about 1500, and then stomp on it, and stay on it till redline, then let off the gas. Your friend should be watching for "gray/blue smoke". Just grey/black smoke is ok.
-Smoke at cold start-up, leaving a stop-light, or throttle blipping from idle is valve stem seals. Smoke under boost, or after letting off of boost, or maybe when revving full throttle, is turbo seals. Smoking for no good reason, or if it doesn't stop pretty quickly is piston rings (may get better or worse when hot).
-Your job while at full throttle in 2nd is making sure the turbos boost fine (smoothly), that you can feel full boost by 4500rpm or near it, and that you don't hear bad noises (slight turbo whistle/whine is ok, if it has an intake it will be noticeable).
-Use all the gears in the transmission, and make sure it shifts fine (if it is a 6spd, it is going to feel and sound clunky too you, that’s normal. If the transmission makes "ball bearings in a can" sounds at idle or low speeds, that is 2-piece sprung flywheel and is normal).
-While driving with the windows down, listen for clicking or popping noises coming from outside the car. (A POP when starting or stopping, or making a sharp low speed turn (maybe up a hill), is the drivers side engine mount. A clicking sound under initial mild acceleration or deceleration, that lasts for only a second or two then stops, and sounds exactly the same regardless of speed, is the rear upper control arm bushings. A clicking that changes with speed is wheel bearings).
-Make sure the brakes work smoothly and reasonably quietly. When coming to a stop take your hand slightly off the wheel and make sure it stays straight.
-Make sure the car tracks straight on flat roads.
-A creaking noise from the hatch when turning up hill, means it needs rubber hatch bumpers.
-Rattling from above you means the targa is loose (make sure the targa bolts loosen, and tighten back down smoothly) and make sure the targa wrench is there.
-Make sure the rear hatch opens and closes fine, and that is stays up on it own.
-Make sure all the doors open and close smoothly.
-If you can really smell the exhaust when coming to a stop, it has no cats.
-If when flooring it, the car pulls smoothly till ~4000rpm, and then rockets forward like getting hit with a semi, then it's BPU and not stock. If you can hardly feel a change over from the 1st turbo to both, then it's stock.
-When checking under the car for leaks, don’t be alarmed by an oily sludge on the transmission and differential. That’s a greasy undercoating that Toyota applied. But check for fresh oil leaks, and check the rear CV joint boots for cracks.
-If possible, look at the spot where the car normally parks. Check for fresh oil puddles or spots. If they say their other car caused the spot, don't believe them if it's a clean 1-2 year old car they are blaming it on.
-Check the wheel rim, inside and out, for curb rash or bent rims.
-Check for excessive or uneven wear on the tires.
-Check for cheap, or miss-matched tires.
-Look to see if all the little plastic panels and parts under the car all line-up, and are attached, and that paint is not where it shouldn't be (cracked under trays are not uncommon, don't be alarmed). Spend a fair amount of time on the ground, don't be afraid to get a little dirty. Also all the major body panels have the original VIN number visibly stuck on them, make sure they are all still there and are the right number. Look for missing, non-original, or out of place fasteners. All these things are possible signs off a collision.
-Check for signs of rust in the wheel wells and inner fender.
-Check the condition of all the exposed rubber on the suspension joints.
-Make sure the power steering is smooth and quiet.
-Make sure the gaps in the body panels are all even.
-Walk all around the car, and look at each panel at different angles. Looks for small dents and dings, and make sure the paint matches all around.
-Look over the paint condition very closely.
-Check around all the glass to see if it has been replaced. Check the manufacturer information on the glass to see if they are all the same.
-Make sure all the exterior lights work.
-Check the headlamps for cracks, moisture or fogging/yellowing (expect them too be fogged/yellowed if an earlier model).
-Make sure to test every last switch in the car to make sure it works (power windows, locks, turn signals, light switch, dome lights, power seat, cruise control, everything). Use all the functions on the A/C and make sure they all work. Go from HOT to COLD A/C and make sure it's getting very hot, and very cold. If it has a factory alarm, make sure the key-fobs work.
-Check the interior for excessive wear (cracked leather in the seat's side bolsters is pretty damn
common).
-Check all of the fluids, make sure the fluid isn't terrible. Open the oil fill cap, and look inside for sludge build-up (you shouldn't see any).
-Find out what oil they use, and how often (don't trust their answer unless they have receipts).
-Ask them if they have had any work done to it. If they have owned it for several years, and say they have done nothing to it, don't take that as being a completely good thing.
-Ask if it has ever had modifications, and what.
-Make sure it still has the spare tire, jack and wrenches, owners manual, and targa wrench.
-Try to get the repair records.
-Do a Carfax.com check on the VIN #.
-Take it to a mechanic you trust AFTER you have done all this to get it checked out one last time before buying it.
-If the owner refuses any of this, be suspicious.
-Try to take a level-headed friend with you who you can trust.
This may sound like a lot to do, but really it's not, most of these things take no more than a second to do. Make sure to always go look at a car on a bright sunny day, and make sure you and the seller will have plenty of time (don't rush anything).
Any problems you find (and your likely to find a few) should not mean you shouldn't buy the car. But you need to know what you are getting into, and whether the price is reasonable. Always negotiate. People are almost always willing to come down some on their asking price. And be prepared to walk away as hard as it may be.
Hope this helps.
The problem will be finding a decent one for a decent price. As you know, these cars are pretty rare and good examples are hard to find. Also, since they are getting kind of old now, banks will not loan you very much on them, so you will need a good amount of cash on hand. I would suggest going to supraforums and spend some time searching the forums there. Pretty much any question you could possibly have on Supras has been asked and answered there.
Here is a great list of things to look for that someone on Supraforums posted:
-Have someone cold start the car while you stand behind it watching the tailpipe, and look for gray smoke with a blue-ish tint (easiest to see in direct sunlight).
-Let the car warm up and continue to stand behind the car checking for smoke.
-Now move to the front of the car, and open the hood. Listen for bad noises (Noticeable Injector Ticking is Normal).
-Now go back and watch the tailpipe for smoke, have someone blip the throttle, while you watch for smoke, let it idle between the blips.
-Now do the same but have them mash the gas and rev it up till like 5000rpm or so.
-Now have a friend follow behind you in another car while you go for a test drive.
-Have him watch for smoke while you drive.
-Put it in 2nd gear, let the rpm drop to about 1500, and then stomp on it, and stay on it till redline, then let off the gas. Your friend should be watching for "gray/blue smoke". Just grey/black smoke is ok.
-Smoke at cold start-up, leaving a stop-light, or throttle blipping from idle is valve stem seals. Smoke under boost, or after letting off of boost, or maybe when revving full throttle, is turbo seals. Smoking for no good reason, or if it doesn't stop pretty quickly is piston rings (may get better or worse when hot).
-Your job while at full throttle in 2nd is making sure the turbos boost fine (smoothly), that you can feel full boost by 4500rpm or near it, and that you don't hear bad noises (slight turbo whistle/whine is ok, if it has an intake it will be noticeable).
-Use all the gears in the transmission, and make sure it shifts fine (if it is a 6spd, it is going to feel and sound clunky too you, that’s normal. If the transmission makes "ball bearings in a can" sounds at idle or low speeds, that is 2-piece sprung flywheel and is normal).
-While driving with the windows down, listen for clicking or popping noises coming from outside the car. (A POP when starting or stopping, or making a sharp low speed turn (maybe up a hill), is the drivers side engine mount. A clicking sound under initial mild acceleration or deceleration, that lasts for only a second or two then stops, and sounds exactly the same regardless of speed, is the rear upper control arm bushings. A clicking that changes with speed is wheel bearings).
-Make sure the brakes work smoothly and reasonably quietly. When coming to a stop take your hand slightly off the wheel and make sure it stays straight.
-Make sure the car tracks straight on flat roads.
-A creaking noise from the hatch when turning up hill, means it needs rubber hatch bumpers.
-Rattling from above you means the targa is loose (make sure the targa bolts loosen, and tighten back down smoothly) and make sure the targa wrench is there.
-Make sure the rear hatch opens and closes fine, and that is stays up on it own.
-Make sure all the doors open and close smoothly.
-If you can really smell the exhaust when coming to a stop, it has no cats.
-If when flooring it, the car pulls smoothly till ~4000rpm, and then rockets forward like getting hit with a semi, then it's BPU and not stock. If you can hardly feel a change over from the 1st turbo to both, then it's stock.
-When checking under the car for leaks, don’t be alarmed by an oily sludge on the transmission and differential. That’s a greasy undercoating that Toyota applied. But check for fresh oil leaks, and check the rear CV joint boots for cracks.
-If possible, look at the spot where the car normally parks. Check for fresh oil puddles or spots. If they say their other car caused the spot, don't believe them if it's a clean 1-2 year old car they are blaming it on.
-Check the wheel rim, inside and out, for curb rash or bent rims.
-Check for excessive or uneven wear on the tires.
-Check for cheap, or miss-matched tires.
-Look to see if all the little plastic panels and parts under the car all line-up, and are attached, and that paint is not where it shouldn't be (cracked under trays are not uncommon, don't be alarmed). Spend a fair amount of time on the ground, don't be afraid to get a little dirty. Also all the major body panels have the original VIN number visibly stuck on them, make sure they are all still there and are the right number. Look for missing, non-original, or out of place fasteners. All these things are possible signs off a collision.
-Check for signs of rust in the wheel wells and inner fender.
-Check the condition of all the exposed rubber on the suspension joints.
-Make sure the power steering is smooth and quiet.
-Make sure the gaps in the body panels are all even.
-Walk all around the car, and look at each panel at different angles. Looks for small dents and dings, and make sure the paint matches all around.
-Look over the paint condition very closely.
-Check around all the glass to see if it has been replaced. Check the manufacturer information on the glass to see if they are all the same.
-Make sure all the exterior lights work.
-Check the headlamps for cracks, moisture or fogging/yellowing (expect them too be fogged/yellowed if an earlier model).
-Make sure to test every last switch in the car to make sure it works (power windows, locks, turn signals, light switch, dome lights, power seat, cruise control, everything). Use all the functions on the A/C and make sure they all work. Go from HOT to COLD A/C and make sure it's getting very hot, and very cold. If it has a factory alarm, make sure the key-fobs work.
-Check the interior for excessive wear (cracked leather in the seat's side bolsters is pretty damn
common).
-Check all of the fluids, make sure the fluid isn't terrible. Open the oil fill cap, and look inside for sludge build-up (you shouldn't see any).
-Find out what oil they use, and how often (don't trust their answer unless they have receipts).
-Ask them if they have had any work done to it. If they have owned it for several years, and say they have done nothing to it, don't take that as being a completely good thing.
-Ask if it has ever had modifications, and what.
-Make sure it still has the spare tire, jack and wrenches, owners manual, and targa wrench.
-Try to get the repair records.
-Do a Carfax.com check on the VIN #.
-Take it to a mechanic you trust AFTER you have done all this to get it checked out one last time before buying it.
-If the owner refuses any of this, be suspicious.
-Try to take a level-headed friend with you who you can trust.
This may sound like a lot to do, but really it's not, most of these things take no more than a second to do. Make sure to always go look at a car on a bright sunny day, and make sure you and the seller will have plenty of time (don't rush anything).
Any problems you find (and your likely to find a few) should not mean you shouldn't buy the car. But you need to know what you are getting into, and whether the price is reasonable. Always negotiate. People are almost always willing to come down some on their asking price. And be prepared to walk away as hard as it may be.
Hope this helps.
