dieselmd

iTrader: (20)

All IX owners? Let reading be your friend. Go back and read my post before you made this one, then edit your post and apologize.

BluEvo210

I'm not sure about 100% of the times it has come on during autocross (after all, I have other things to think about at that moment.)
...I think a lot of the instances have been accelerating out of a corner, but like I said it's not consistent from one run to the next.
I have seen it come on during straight line acceleration
with my stock engine,
and stock suspension,
and different kinds of tires, including Dunlop Star-Specs.

Soooo, what else can we figure out from this?

BluEvo210

You're saying the X sends most of its' power to the front wheels?
I remember reading somewhere that the default torque split on the 3000GT VR4 was 30% front, 70% rear (I think it was Road & Track). After reading the praise of the Evo VIII & IXs handling, I thought it might have a similar rear bias.

I figured the worst it could be was 50/50.

When your front tires are already begging for mercy, because you want them to turn a 3589lb car, it's easier to get propulsion by pushing.

I can feel the difference it makes toward the end of an autocross run, when the front tires are overheating and braking takes more distance.

So, this brings me to another question:
Has anyone ever modded an Evo to get more rear bias?
(...other than the mythical V8/RWD conversion someone told me about)

I know it's been tried with Audi, by putting different torque-biasing limited-slips in the center diff.

migs647

iTrader: (19)

It sounds to me like you're being reluctant to get the RWD driver out of you. You really need to change your driving habits for a AWD car. They are, after all, completely different cars.

I feel before you start going for mods like this (as far as I know they don't exist for the X), you need to figure out your flashing yellow light. The more I thought about this yesterday the more it reminded me that it disables any ASC if you get this from maxing the boost tables.

You say you are completely stock, do you have an aftermarket tune? If I were you, I'd either be going back to your tuner or put the stock tune back on. See where that gets you. If you have the stock tune, I'd be going back to the dealer and getting them to look into the issue. Something is wrong with your car, and I think with a little searching, you'll find that the yellow flashing screen is disabling and wrecking all sorts of havoc on your awd system.

Once you figure that out, then I'd see where you're at. Try some suspension mods (rear sway bar, anti-roll, springs, camber, etc).

BluEvo210

When I say stock, I mean autocross stock. I have a K&N filter, and that's it.
Alignment is within stock specs:
The camber is -1.1 deg front, and -1.0 deg rear.
The toe is zeroed out.
Sometimes, if I'm early enough for the race, I'll remove the subwoofer from the trunk.

...But, if I have to go to the dealer, they won't do anything under warranty. They dragged their feet on the seat fabric issue, and they've already shown that they'll blame everything they can on the owner. At this point, they only have to drag their feet for another 4,000mi of driving and the car will be out of warranty for real. If I have to spend money, I'd rather not spend it at the dealer.

Does anyone have a recommendation for who to take an Evo to in the Florida panhandle?

migs647

iTrader: (19)

Did your tuner disable your DTCs?

BluEvo210

What tuner?

migs647

iTrader: (19)

Edited: done derailing the thread.

Robevo RS

iTrader: (16)

I think , if you are tuned the tuner didnt do something right. When that warning comes out straight line, then is something with the over boost.

The AWD driving Technic is more close to the FWD then a RWD as i mentioned before. Dont go for the 50/50 or any other numbers on this, it will not help on the situation. Drive it first as a FWD car , period. Will not hurt you, fact will help. Since, if you over shoot you still can rotate vs the FWD platform . It is a good advice to start with.
Try to get a new approach for the car , since you got the RWD experience the over steer is not an issue for you then.
So try to get in to the corner not too hot , i would even say, try to go slow in the turn, and just before the APex floor it
EVen, if you slide the first couple of times, you will get the idea how to get out of the corner right. Your advantige is not to go in the turn, it is going out. So as soon as you feel where is your right exit point in the turn you are golden. From there, you just need to find the good braking point, which shouldn't be har for you.
The reason i say try to mess up the first turns and start going out sooner of the "wrong point" because you might over or under judge the exit point of the turn of the AWD EVo, based on your RWD habits.
Then form there you can adjust the attitude and your style for the car. Every car is different because of the set up weight etc.
I really cant tell you more over the net , sorry.
Believe me the skid pad or something like that//empty wet parking lot perhaps... / will do a great help for you. /unless the cops show up/

BluEvo210

What thread do we go to?
Is there an existing one for this type of stuff?
Or, do I need to start a new one?

Edit: Will start a new thread

If I start a new one, can I take the related messages with me?

doc29

owned all three first 8 ssl...then 10 mr...now 9 se...10 is better daily...9 is better race car...just pick to suit your needs...

migs647

iTrader: (19)

What are you basing the CT9A is a better race car than the CZ4A? There are plenty with a good amount of tracking and rallying that would disagree with you.

doc29

track overall records are held by cta9s...hks, sierra, all hold better records in the ct9a platform.For the same money im alot faster in the 9. the 10s weight is a factor. I honestly enjoyed the 10 better daily. The nine is just that much better once you start talking about a more serious build.scca is considering reclasing 8/9 only...just too dominate. nuff said

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

I honestly think as street cars taken to the track both cars are extremely close -

once you start throwing gobs of money it's really hard to say. The X has been out for a good amount of time now though - which was what some people used to "use" as a reason for why the X had yet to catch up. However, the HKS evo was an 8, and when it broke the tsukuba record it was only 2004. Even if you count the development of the car to start in 2001 with the Evo7, the time the cars were out is now equivalent.

That said, I really don't care about cars like that. I don't look at the HKS evo and think it's similar to my car. In terms of street cars on the track, which to me means full interior, sound deadening, livable for DD and between 350-450whp, I still am going with the 9 on this one - provided it's got a cusco in the back like mine. The street class in RTA this year has been all 8/9s on top for the most part. Though overall, I still think it is a wash

ps: link to scca reclassing 8/9 only?

Robevo RS

iTrader: (16)

for a same money the IX is not a lot faster if even faster...
The 8-9 is dominate because the owners start developing sooner , simply reason is why, because they are earlier models. Obvious reasons.



In rally the X's in the same class, now usually faster then earlier models / hence this year RA champ is a Evo X/
Why important a rally car ? because it is closest race cars for the Street cars compare any serious race.

in road race even the states the X - Rememeber Ryan X or the X in 24hr race etc. /Ryan is champ too /

Drag race i hand it to you
AutoX i have no clue, i did twice, since then, i dont even want to look at it.


So as you said "nuff said" , but not really... LOL


/i did race my VIII - IX RS - now i do race my X, i tried all US models in racing condition not once. FYI/
For my credential in the states in very short pic history:
My VIII:


my IX RS:



My X: