kyoo

iTrader: (29)

FYI,

You may quickly change your mind about which car is going to be the track car after driving both - In which case I suggest finding a IX or X GSR. You'll quickly be disappointed in how the STI drives once you push both cars

R3VOLUTION

iTrader: (1)

Don't misunderstand my intention, I know exactly what kind of car/market/lifestyle/focus an Evo is . The fuel economy bit isn't my concern, its if the 5th gear RPM at cruising speed leads to terrible drone. I realize that is (probably largely) exhaust specific, but if its unanimous across the board that being on the highway with a TBE makes your ears bleed, I'll do an MR. If it's not an issue, then I'd do GSR and keep my clutch . My daily commute isn't a consistent thing, my work entails driving new places all the time so I'd love to keep the versatility of AWD being that I live in a 4 season climate.

R3VOLUTION

iTrader: (1)

The STI is the one I've always wanted to go crazy with. Nothing is 100% of course, because I agree I may decide that I prefer the characteristics of an Evo over an STI for the track but as of now having driven my fair share of Evo's the STI is my pick. I've always wanted to own and mod both, and it's getting to be that time in life when I can afford to do so which is exciting .

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

Do a lot of browsing on this forum, you'll find a lot of interesting information

R3VOLUTION

iTrader: (1)

That's the plan

Haha I read and research any decision to the point people think I'm nuts, and I'm not in the market for a little while to make sure this is what I really want. The best part is I haven't told anyone I'm going to get an Evo, my buddies are going to **** a brick.

journeymansteve

OMG, pretty funny. I'm a noob Evo owner, have an X and also 2.0 kids, mortgage, wife, and a pretty suburban life (exurban, more miles actually living in the stix). I beg to differ. My wife might make a crack about the drone, but for me, it's beyond sexy, it's beyond beautiful, it's what makes this car such a lovable sleeper. It looks like the regular Lancer, but OOHH NNOO, it's not some econobox rice burner.

FWIW, you can't buy one of these with the stock sound system, it's worse torture than any car's drone ever -- that stock stereo was a waste of dash brackets. The RF setup in the SSS is usable. Not as great as my wife has in her Avalon, but sufficient to produce more noise than the hwy or TBE noises.

R3VOLUTION

iTrader: (1)

Glad to hear it! I'd love it if I could get the same feeling as when I turn my STi on. Passangers who haven't been in it before always get this face going on the first time they hear an UEL header car. I did notice nobody seem's to like the stock setup, is it more of a speakers of headunit issue? I'd definitely go aftermarket H/U because I'd want it iPhone 4 compatible.

mikane24

i have evo x making 415whp on dyno jet at 28psi with no problem. the motor can hold up to 500+whp on stock block but the torque has to be around 400wtq, because the rods are soft on this 4b11. the 4g63 is still the king off all dsm blocks imo...

R3VOLUTION

iTrader: (1)

Yikes, that's way more than I would want as a DD. I generally don't set my sights on specific numbers but I imagine 350wtq and whatever whp comes with that would be pretty sweet. With a good tune whens the power generally come on? I've been reading through people builds looking at dynos, and it seems like these engines have power much later than my scoobie.

mikane24

i have a blouch dom turbo that is comparable to fp green on stock block.. heres my video the car feels strong and smooth..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPlNAnA96O0

R3VOLUTION

iTrader: (1)

Have a dyno plot? Looks sexy man.

journeymansteve

The problem with the stock stereo is simply power and speakers The SSS Rockford Fosgate HU is decent; I have the pre-bluetooth 2008 GSR so I'd have to do a steering wheel mod and buy the Outlander BT module, just haven't bothered because I hate doing anything other than driving this car when its running. Stereo is ok, I don't really notice it even when banging my head. The cool thing about the RF is that it has two RCA inputs, old fashioned red and white hook-ups that let you use any headphone/RCA cable to make noise -- I have a Sansa MP3 player but I've pondered using my old quartz locked turntable in it hehehe. (The RF HU has a built in 6 disk changer that reads MP3 format data disks, so you can jam a whole lot of music there, and data CD's are 10 cents to burn)

I agree -- too many folks aren't at all seemingly interested in longevity. Talking to a local tuner, he just plain told me the best tune for long-lasting is the simiple factory tune, pig rich and potential that's locked up in soot instead of heat/power. I will take that trade-off. The years and miles of smiles with less power provide "more area under the curve" than massive power that doesn't last the test of time as well. Running a simple bolt on TBE I did get a 7mph gain in the quarter mile, not bad, and the richness is, well, RICH. (Sorry vanity lovers, my chrome ETS tips aren't ever clean!) But at 66,000 miles and climbing, it's a choice about what you want to own -- tomorrow and beyond. I'm keeping my X, it's decided.

mikane24

my tune is still rich i am seeing 10.8 afr on full boost. my tuner is very reliable and he's been tuning evos for years...

R3VOLUTION

iTrader: (1)

Noted, so an amp and solid speakers would do. Nice.

I agree that stock is safe, but there are a lot more variables than that when it comes to longevity. For example people who have the car tuned and mildly modded tend to drive harder (generally) then those who leave it stock. Maintenance is also huge.

My understanding is while the stock tune is designed to be as safe as can, be there is no reason a professional tune can't be as safe as stock provided the tuner is good at what he does. Running more boost, etc is always going to be harder on an engine but with appropriate measures is can be quite long lasting. Most off the shelf (AccessPORT) tunes do things to gain power like advance the timing under load (to my understanding anyway), and are greatly inferior to a protune. Being honest with your tuner about the goals for the car and how you drive it is also very important, as the tune can change drastically depending on your driving style (for example drag vs. track).

My $0.02.

acidtonic

iTrader: (1)

I wanted to chime in on the stock tunes a bit. I disagree that stock is the best for longevity. It's really geared towards emissions and *then* keeping the motor safe. Stock tunes generally have knock as well even and some cars hit as many as 4 counts completely stock. Others only 1-2 sporadically which is fine. Many pro tunes have no knock at all. Now Obviously tunes that shut off the knock sensor or reduce sensitivity don't count but many pro tuners will have a 0-knock tune.

So I pretty much agree though with everything else being said about longevity just not the part about the stock tune being the best for motor life.

Best for longevity in my opinion (1 being the best for longevity)

1. Pro tune with zero knock (no aggressive mods or power increase)
2. Stock rich tune.
3. Pro-tune with power mods
4. Power mods with no tune

Speaking points.

1. Rich is good, but AFRS in the 9's are too rich
2. Simple things like how easily the BOV functions can have drastic effects on turbo life. (Surge, lift off flutter from a tight spring)
3. Climate and humidity sometimes have larger effect than people admit.
4. How smooth you engage the clutch has an effect on the motor over time.
5. After you look at how much coin people drop to mod, rebuilding the motor isn't a big scare for them.