Buschur Racing's new 5 liter Mustang
Nov 5, 2010, 12:52 PM
#53
Wow...........quite a bit of work for a small amount of power guys.
I was asked to test just ditching the cats on the car. I want to get into this market so I am going to attempt to go above and beyond to provide the best parts and the best testing I can.
Anyway, factory cats weigh in at 9.4 pounds each. Looks like the same cat I had on my 2008 4.6. The offroad pipe I built weighed in at 3.3 pounds. So a nice 12.2 pounds lost on the weight of the car. The factory tubing is 2.75" at the back of the cat, that is PLENTY large enough for a lot of horsepower considering the car has dual exhaust. The exhaust does get necked down in a few other places but that is for future testing, probably next week.
On the dyno, gains in power were slim from dropping the cats. Peak torque went up 1 ft lb and power rose by 8 whp. To build these offroad pipes from USA made 304 grade stainless steel, put 02 bungs in and TIG weld them they'd cost about $400 for the pair as a guess. The sound of the exhaust barely changed, yes it's a bit louder but not much at all, that was the first sign to me that the gains in power weren't going to be huge.
There are two resonators under the car, I HATE resonators. In some past testing we've done the part we found to be the largest restriction on the entire car was a single factory resonator........could end up being the case on this too.
Sorry, I get off track easy.
While the car was in the shop this morning, the first thing I did was modified the air inlet. Ford did a nice job on the factory air box, it has a LARGE inlet coming from the bottom of it to the front grill of the car. The problem I saw as soon as I looked at the car was the area in the grill that it goes to is blocked off. So yes, it is sucking in clean fresh air but it is still SUCKING it in. We build a Forward Facing turbo kit for the Evolutions. Big gains up top getting the air actually forced into the turbo. I pulled the grill out of the car and cut the back side of it where it was blocking the incoming air, there is a plastic outer grill piece that also needed cut. I then made a carbon fiber plate to direct and separate the incoming air and force it into the factory inlet. It came out quit freaking nice.
While the car was on the dyno with or without the grill opened up the car is going to perform the same. The difference is going to be at speed the air will be forced into the air box more than just sucked. We did 4 back-to-back dyno runs. Then I had one of my guys come and hold our dyno fan about waist high and blow it directly into the front of the opening to the air filter. The fans we have blow air at 44 mph, measured with a wind speed meter. The car gained power on the next two runs, consistently. Cooler air/denser/more of it, hard to say without data logging the car but the gains were there so it was a worthwhile mod to do. The torque stayed the same but peak numbers were up by 3 whp and that gain started at about 5700 rpm and kept climbing. It's honestly hard to split these small gains like this and call them gains as there is of course some variance from run to run on the dyno. BUT, we made 4 runs prior, NONE of those 4 made as much as the last two runs with the fan blowing air into the inlet I built. At 100 mph I'm expecting it to really pick up some power.
Here is the dyno sheet. What this sheet shows is our baseline run on 93 octane, that is the solid red line. The dotted green line is with the addition of the offroad pipes and the blue dotted line is forcing air into the air box.
Here is the baseline of the car how we picked it up with 87 octane in it. Red solid line is stock on 87 octane compared to the car with mostly 93 octane in it now, offroad pipes and the air inlet modified.
Here is the plastic piece that fits behind the actual grill. It's flipped in this picture, so where I cut it is on the left side in this picture.
This is the actual grill, same thing, flipped in the picture, so you can see where I cut it on the left side. Actually you can't see the cuts because they are clean and perfect but compare it to the opposite side where it is blocked off.
This is a picture of the grill back in the car and the straight shot for the air to be forced into the air box.
Here you can see the carbon fiber divider I built.
Good shot of it all in the car and the divider.
I was asked to test just ditching the cats on the car. I want to get into this market so I am going to attempt to go above and beyond to provide the best parts and the best testing I can.
Anyway, factory cats weigh in at 9.4 pounds each. Looks like the same cat I had on my 2008 4.6. The offroad pipe I built weighed in at 3.3 pounds. So a nice 12.2 pounds lost on the weight of the car. The factory tubing is 2.75" at the back of the cat, that is PLENTY large enough for a lot of horsepower considering the car has dual exhaust. The exhaust does get necked down in a few other places but that is for future testing, probably next week.
On the dyno, gains in power were slim from dropping the cats. Peak torque went up 1 ft lb and power rose by 8 whp. To build these offroad pipes from USA made 304 grade stainless steel, put 02 bungs in and TIG weld them they'd cost about $400 for the pair as a guess. The sound of the exhaust barely changed, yes it's a bit louder but not much at all, that was the first sign to me that the gains in power weren't going to be huge.
There are two resonators under the car, I HATE resonators. In some past testing we've done the part we found to be the largest restriction on the entire car was a single factory resonator........could end up being the case on this too.
Sorry, I get off track easy.
While the car was in the shop this morning, the first thing I did was modified the air inlet. Ford did a nice job on the factory air box, it has a LARGE inlet coming from the bottom of it to the front grill of the car. The problem I saw as soon as I looked at the car was the area in the grill that it goes to is blocked off. So yes, it is sucking in clean fresh air but it is still SUCKING it in. We build a Forward Facing turbo kit for the Evolutions. Big gains up top getting the air actually forced into the turbo. I pulled the grill out of the car and cut the back side of it where it was blocking the incoming air, there is a plastic outer grill piece that also needed cut. I then made a carbon fiber plate to direct and separate the incoming air and force it into the factory inlet. It came out quit freaking nice.
While the car was on the dyno with or without the grill opened up the car is going to perform the same. The difference is going to be at speed the air will be forced into the air box more than just sucked. We did 4 back-to-back dyno runs. Then I had one of my guys come and hold our dyno fan about waist high and blow it directly into the front of the opening to the air filter. The fans we have blow air at 44 mph, measured with a wind speed meter. The car gained power on the next two runs, consistently. Cooler air/denser/more of it, hard to say without data logging the car but the gains were there so it was a worthwhile mod to do. The torque stayed the same but peak numbers were up by 3 whp and that gain started at about 5700 rpm and kept climbing. It's honestly hard to split these small gains like this and call them gains as there is of course some variance from run to run on the dyno. BUT, we made 4 runs prior, NONE of those 4 made as much as the last two runs with the fan blowing air into the inlet I built. At 100 mph I'm expecting it to really pick up some power.
Here is the dyno sheet. What this sheet shows is our baseline run on 93 octane, that is the solid red line. The dotted green line is with the addition of the offroad pipes and the blue dotted line is forcing air into the air box.
Here is the baseline of the car how we picked it up with 87 octane in it. Red solid line is stock on 87 octane compared to the car with mostly 93 octane in it now, offroad pipes and the air inlet modified.
Here is the plastic piece that fits behind the actual grill. It's flipped in this picture, so where I cut it is on the left side in this picture.
This is the actual grill, same thing, flipped in the picture, so you can see where I cut it on the left side. Actually you can't see the cuts because they are clean and perfect but compare it to the opposite side where it is blocked off.
This is a picture of the grill back in the car and the straight shot for the air to be forced into the air box.
Here you can see the carbon fiber divider I built.
Good shot of it all in the car and the divider.
Nov 6, 2010, 01:08 PM
#56
I finally made it to the track today. Glad to get the baselines out of the way so we can get started trying to make some real power with the car.
I figure most of you have read already about the car but if not here's a refresher:
2011, 5.0. 300a package with 3.73 gears/limited slip. Weight with a full tank of gas and driver, 3792 pounds.
Stock tires/wheels/brakes. Stock tune.
The car base lined with dealer installed 87 octane at only 311 whp on our Mustang Dyno. We added 93 to a 1/4 tank of 87 that was left and gained nearly 30 whp.
Friday I built a set of offroad pipes for the car that gained 8 whp at the very top of the dyno pull. I also modified the grill of the car so the air was forced into the air inlet and built a carbon fiber divider to route the air into the inlet, this gained 4 whp with a fan blowing air into the air box.
Final dyno results, 348 whp.
First pass today I ran a 13.10 @ 111.09 mph, 2.0 sixty foot. Let me get this out of the way, I suck driving a manual trans car at the drag strip. My next 6 passes ranged from 13.1's to 13.4's. I thought I was having a problem with the drive by wire as the car didn't feel right after a hard shift, I assumed it was in the programming. Then on one of the passes the clutch pedal stuck to the floor on the 1-2 shift. Another guy at the track with a nearly identical 5.0 to mine told me to remove the assist spring on the clutch pedal (I forgot your name, so please remind me, but THANK YOU FOR THE ADVISE!!!) I pulled the spring out and the car was 100% noticeably different on every gear change. Still, 13.1 was all I could manage.
A friend of mine who is a hell of a driver was there, Trent, and I asked if he'd give the car a try as I wasn't happy with my driving. First pass he got in the car he pulled off a 12.77 at 111.30 mph, 1.94 sixty foot. Then a 12.73 and a 12.79. I knew he could manage a 12.6 out of the car so we let it cool off for a bit and he jumped back in it. Sure enough, 12.65, 1.89 sixty foot time. The best MPH of the day from Trent was a 113.02 mph.
Here are the best incremental times of the day:
1.897 sixty foot
5.39 330'
8.25 1/8th mile
87.33 mph 1/8th mile
10.63 1000'
12.65 1/4
113.02 1/4 mph
I'm happy with the performance and there are some things to consider. The car is FLAT OUT OUT OF RPM and is on the rev limiter nosed over about 40' before the finish line. You may as well lift off the throttle and coast because it does it on it's own when it hits the rev limiter.
The car noses over and slows down because it's out of RPM in 4th. A tune JUST to bump the rev limiter would easily drop the ET and raise the MPH a good margin.
The car had about a 1/2 tank of fuel, nothing was removed from the car, I actually had 10 pounds or so of extra crap in it.
In stock form with 3.73 gears I feel the car is just about maxed out as it comes from the factory. Shifting to 5th killed the car, so that's out of the question. A different gear, taller tire or a tune seems to be essential to gain much more.
I'd like to get the entire exhaust taken care of and tested on the car this week, the tune in it, tires on the rear and return to the track. Seems like a no brainer to get one in the 11's at this point but I guess I'll find out soon enough.
BTW, the nice guy who helped me out with the advise on the clutch pedal was telling me he installed a Steeda cold air kit, on his dyno the car gained 3 whp. I was happy to hear that and happy with the results of just modifying the inlet in the grill on our car.
Thanks for reading. Let me know what you think.
I figure most of you have read already about the car but if not here's a refresher:
2011, 5.0. 300a package with 3.73 gears/limited slip. Weight with a full tank of gas and driver, 3792 pounds.
Stock tires/wheels/brakes. Stock tune.
The car base lined with dealer installed 87 octane at only 311 whp on our Mustang Dyno. We added 93 to a 1/4 tank of 87 that was left and gained nearly 30 whp.
Friday I built a set of offroad pipes for the car that gained 8 whp at the very top of the dyno pull. I also modified the grill of the car so the air was forced into the air inlet and built a carbon fiber divider to route the air into the inlet, this gained 4 whp with a fan blowing air into the air box.
Final dyno results, 348 whp.
First pass today I ran a 13.10 @ 111.09 mph, 2.0 sixty foot. Let me get this out of the way, I suck driving a manual trans car at the drag strip. My next 6 passes ranged from 13.1's to 13.4's. I thought I was having a problem with the drive by wire as the car didn't feel right after a hard shift, I assumed it was in the programming. Then on one of the passes the clutch pedal stuck to the floor on the 1-2 shift. Another guy at the track with a nearly identical 5.0 to mine told me to remove the assist spring on the clutch pedal (I forgot your name, so please remind me, but THANK YOU FOR THE ADVISE!!!) I pulled the spring out and the car was 100% noticeably different on every gear change. Still, 13.1 was all I could manage.
A friend of mine who is a hell of a driver was there, Trent, and I asked if he'd give the car a try as I wasn't happy with my driving. First pass he got in the car he pulled off a 12.77 at 111.30 mph, 1.94 sixty foot. Then a 12.73 and a 12.79. I knew he could manage a 12.6 out of the car so we let it cool off for a bit and he jumped back in it. Sure enough, 12.65, 1.89 sixty foot time. The best MPH of the day from Trent was a 113.02 mph.
Here are the best incremental times of the day:
1.897 sixty foot
5.39 330'
8.25 1/8th mile
87.33 mph 1/8th mile
10.63 1000'
12.65 1/4
113.02 1/4 mph
I'm happy with the performance and there are some things to consider. The car is FLAT OUT OUT OF RPM and is on the rev limiter nosed over about 40' before the finish line. You may as well lift off the throttle and coast because it does it on it's own when it hits the rev limiter.
The car noses over and slows down because it's out of RPM in 4th. A tune JUST to bump the rev limiter would easily drop the ET and raise the MPH a good margin.
The car had about a 1/2 tank of fuel, nothing was removed from the car, I actually had 10 pounds or so of extra crap in it.
In stock form with 3.73 gears I feel the car is just about maxed out as it comes from the factory. Shifting to 5th killed the car, so that's out of the question. A different gear, taller tire or a tune seems to be essential to gain much more.
I'd like to get the entire exhaust taken care of and tested on the car this week, the tune in it, tires on the rear and return to the track. Seems like a no brainer to get one in the 11's at this point but I guess I'll find out soon enough.
BTW, the nice guy who helped me out with the advise on the clutch pedal was telling me he installed a Steeda cold air kit, on his dyno the car gained 3 whp. I was happy to hear that and happy with the results of just modifying the inlet in the grill on our car.
Thanks for reading. Let me know what you think.
Nov 6, 2010, 01:28 PM
#57
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One way or another, power can be had out of that motor, it's just gonna need a little boost. Very respectable times for a brand new car out of the box.
http://www.insideline.com/ford/musta...ercharger.html
* Ford Racing will sell twin-screw supercharger kits directly to Mustang GT owners.
* Kits with a piggyback ECU tune will deliver 525 hp and 624 hp.
It is begging for a tune.
http://www.insideline.com/ford/musta...ercharger.html
* Ford Racing will sell twin-screw supercharger kits directly to Mustang GT owners.
* Kits with a piggyback ECU tune will deliver 525 hp and 624 hp.
It is begging for a tune.
Last edited by dboz; Nov 6, 2010 at 02:21 PM.
Nov 6, 2010, 02:27 PM
#59
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There have been some complaints of the clutch pedal sticking to the floor once you raise the rev limiter. I think they had to change the clutch pedal assembly to the GT500 setup. Just an FYI. It sticks with high RPM shifts while drag racing in the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts.
This must have been the spring issue you mentioned.
This must have been the spring issue you mentioned.
Last edited by dboz; Nov 6, 2010 at 02:29 PM.
Nov 7, 2010, 03:55 PM
#60
BTW, I ran a 12.82 in it, forgot to mention that.
Yes, the initial thought was the clutch pedal and swapping to the GT500 assembly. I was told mine has an updated pedal in it already since it was just built. The assistnspring seems to be the main problem...mine is great now. Also, my rev limiter is stock.
Yes, the initial thought was the clutch pedal and swapping to the GT500 assembly. I was told mine has an updated pedal in it already since it was just built. The assistnspring seems to be the main problem...mine is great now. Also, my rev limiter is stock.