RazorLab

iTrader: (8)

It's a hard pill to swallow (I know it was for me), but there are a good amount of cars out now that are much faster than our heavily modded evos. It used to be I would go to the track and clean up HPDE trophies with my 4 door sedan but now these new cars with simple mods are WAY faster.

Enjoy the car!

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Yeah... without another $20k invested, I'm afraid the Evo has run its course, pun intended.

Lumpy Sticks

iTrader: (3)

Pretty sure that's exactly the reason why we got new cars. Took our evos to the best possible place and still just needed a bit more to keep up with the modern cars. I remember racing back in like 2010 and the car to beat everytime was an Evo. Things have changed....

RazorLab

iTrader: (8)

Right, that said though, the mods that are going on my Supra total $9k. And that is with no power adders yet. Mods add up fast.

Lumpy Sticks

iTrader: (3)

You act like you have less than that in your Evo.... I had a good 15k in my evo at one point in time and my supra as is (with a lot less invested) puts down better times.

RazorLab

iTrader: (8)

Not at all. Remember, I posted the same type of spreadsheet with $25k+ after you doubted me that I put $25k+ in my Evo. :P

My point was that no matter the cars, mods add up. Hell, just the tires and wheels on your supra are $3k+, add some decent coilovers, brakes pads, fluid and you are over $5.5k. These are basic mods for track use unless you buy a GT4/GT3. I'm talking about track use, not cone hunting.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Best not to add up these kind of things .

Even if I just stop spending money on my Evo or Tesla, I could buy something fancy with the monthly budget.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

I guess I'm a bit ahead of the game. I have magnetic shocks, so won't be swapping those out. The car sits perfect, so no need to lower.
The brakes are HUGE so just pads and fluids.
The seats are excellent so just need a roll bar and ASM harness.
Hoosiers are the same price as OEM tires. 305 front (295 with Hoosier) and 315 rear means I don't need to go with a different wheel.
I'll never add a power adder.
The OEM mount point, swan neck wings avail are awesome. The OEM splitter is very aggressive so not sure I need one.. but probably will, if I can quick disconnect.
OEM tow hooks. Like, real ones. Check.
I'm getting pretty stoked. The big cost is going to be getting track tires AND street wheels AND street tires at the same time. The rest isn't so bad. ... Though I have to buy 11qts of oil

RazorLab

iTrader: (8)

So $5k+ the approx $70k you payed for the car.

I’m just hear to show reality, our hobbies ain’t cheap.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

As far as cash out of pocket and build time. Way ahead. I could track the car now and probably be faster lol

EVO8LTW

iTrader: (41)

Here's what was silly -- that I didn't take the time to properly adjust the seat and steering wheel before test driving. I went back today and spent a good 10 minutes just getting the right seating position for the pedals, shifter and wheel before setting off on my test drive. Once I did that -- whole different car...which is now in my driveway.

WarmMilk

iTrader: (1)

this is why I never include consumables like tires and pads in my "how much I spent on mods" math. Thats a separate "how much it costs to track my car" equation

RazorLab

iTrader: (8)

Haha, I’ve calculated that before as well. Between track event fee, fuel, tire/brake consumption, oil, hotel and track insurance, you don’t want to know what a track day or track weekend really costs.

Spoiler: The track event entry fee is usually the cheapest part.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Welcome to the club! and yeah.. setting up the seat and wheel are the FIRST things you do.

EVO8LTW

iTrader: (41)

i’ve done those calculations. It’s how I justify mod costs when I’m not going to as many events!

There are much more expensive hobbies out there…flying, drug addiction, etc…