Milwaukee - America's Drunkest Evo Owners
Oct 17, 2006, 07:54 PM
Originally Posted by laakness
So, AMS did a fantastic job as usual. Car runs great on the highway so far and tomorrow I'll get more time with town driving. Anyway, here it is:
334whp after the tune. Eric at the shop was pretty suprised that an '03 with my mods pulled that out and a stock intercooler.
Anyway, thanks to Nez and my bro for going down and hanging out for the day. Once I scan in the dyno sheet I'll post it up.
334whp after the tune. Eric at the shop was pretty suprised that an '03 with my mods pulled that out and a stock intercooler.
Anyway, thanks to Nez and my bro for going down and hanging out for the day. Once I scan in the dyno sheet I'll post it up.
Oct 17, 2006, 09:28 PM
Originally Posted by Silk
I still need to call up ams for a tune........
They charge $500 for a custom dyno tune, correct?
They charge $500 for a custom dyno tune, correct?
you should just call up Scott, you will get a great tune at a better price
Oct 17, 2006, 09:32 PM
Originally Posted by Yeti
it was in the 60's today
Yup custom tuning @ $299 for the Miltown guys.
Tuning a strong force of street and track fighters representing there.
Yeti has the logging gear that makes custom tuning remotely- possible. Its a great service.
Last edited by TTP Engineering; Oct 17, 2006 at 09:34 PM.
Oct 17, 2006, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Silk
I still need to call up ams for a tune........
They charge $500 for a custom dyno tune, correct?
They charge $500 for a custom dyno tune, correct?
Oct 17, 2006, 11:34 PM
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Pete and other tilton-equipped evos, how do you guys like the tilton clutch? I definately need to replace my clutch, 47k+original stocker+summer AMS mods= toasted stock clutch. I got a lot of life out of the stock, but i want an aftermarket one that can hold the power, while also being reliable in the long-run.
Which clutch would you recommend from Tilton?
I am quite sure the Tilton from TTP is the best choice, but i just want to 'shop around' and answer some basic questions before i unload the dough.
How do the tiltons feel? Are they stiffer than stock? Do they require a lot, if any, adjustment? How low is the engadgment point?
Which clutch would you recommend from Tilton?
I am quite sure the Tilton from TTP is the best choice, but i just want to 'shop around' and answer some basic questions before i unload the dough.
How do the tiltons feel? Are they stiffer than stock? Do they require a lot, if any, adjustment? How low is the engadgment point?
Oct 18, 2006, 12:11 AM
Originally Posted by RED DEMON
I am quite sure the Tilton from TTP is the best choice, but i just want to 'shop around' and answer some basic questions before i unload the dough.
How do the tiltons feel? Are they stiffer than stock? Do they require a lot, if any, adjustment? How low is the engadgment point?
How do the tiltons feel? Are they stiffer than stock? Do they require a lot, if any, adjustment? How low is the engadgment point?
I drove Yeti's briefly and the engagement of the clutch is all or nothing, there is no slipping that clutch under normal, everyday driving. Although, after seeing Yeti manouever the car around tonight he seems to have got pretty good at hiding the fact that there's a tilton in the car.
In my opinion it's totally overkill for the power that everyone on here is making right now, and hurts driveability of the car.
I still think that when I put a new clutch in my car I'm going to get another ACT with a fidanza flywheel. It's rated to like 500ftlbs, was only a little less driveable than stock, lasted me 40K+ problem free miles and still going strong when I traded the last car in. Although drag racing isn't my thing it also powered me to a 1.777 60' which is the same as the 60' on Mikey's tilton equipped car's best time. (not making any inferences here, just an observation).
Oct 18, 2006, 12:28 AM
Originally Posted by the-moss
If you have to ask it probably isn't for you.
I drove Yeti's briefly and the engagement of the clutch is all or nothing, there is no slipping that clutch under normal, everyday driving. Although, after seeing Yeti manouever the car around tonight he seems to have got pretty good at hiding the fact that there's a tilton in the car.
In my opinion it's totally overkill for the power that everyone on here is making right now, and hurts driveability of the car.
I still think that when I put a new clutch in my car I'm going to get another ACT with a fidanza flywheel. It's rated to like 500ftlbs, was only a little less driveable than stock, lasted me 40K+ problem free miles and still going strong when I traded the last car in. Although drag racing isn't my thing it also powered me to a 1.777 60' which is the same as the 60' on Mikey's tilton equipped car's best time. (not making any inferences here, just an observation).
I drove Yeti's briefly and the engagement of the clutch is all or nothing, there is no slipping that clutch under normal, everyday driving. Although, after seeing Yeti manouever the car around tonight he seems to have got pretty good at hiding the fact that there's a tilton in the car.
In my opinion it's totally overkill for the power that everyone on here is making right now, and hurts driveability of the car.
I still think that when I put a new clutch in my car I'm going to get another ACT with a fidanza flywheel. It's rated to like 500ftlbs, was only a little less driveable than stock, lasted me 40K+ problem free miles and still going strong when I traded the last car in. Although drag racing isn't my thing it also powered me to a 1.777 60' which is the same as the 60' on Mikey's tilton equipped car's best time. (not making any inferences here, just an observation).
For the rest that drive their car and unleash its capabilities, it is a great choice.
I have accomplished 1.72 avg on the stock clutch. Others locals have done 1.68 on the stock clutch. Not to minimize your driving skills, but a 1.77 on a ACT clutch is not an accomplishment.
Comparing Mike's slow spooling FP3065 to your car is a poor comparison + Mike is a ****ty drag racer. (Sorry Mike)
A Tilton clutch will do 1.5-1.6 60's all day long. Curt Brown does some sick 1.4 and 1.3's with it.
My first Tilton customer was a master of the SCCA SM class and wins each season so it is not only a drag clutch, it also works great in other applications like autox.
Buying a clutch is not about power level. It is about benefits and usage. Tilton cerametallic twin weighs only 19.1lbs and this unsprung weight loss increases spoolup time and unleashes additional whp.
The ACT is probably the worst clutch for drag application besides the exedy carbons. Street disc units are heavy and experience high RPM lockouts, make you grind gears and wear out your syncros.
Furthermore Fidanza is junk. Its about $369 and the only benefit is the "replaceable center section" which takes about 3-4 weeks to get that piece from Fidanza. Once I received my first set from backorder, the heat cycled screws that hold it on fused to the flywheel and required the unit to be sent back to Fidanza so that they could replace the center section with custom tooling.
There is a clutch for everyone. The cheap single disc is not the answer for everyone however.
Oct 18, 2006, 03:45 AM
Originally Posted by TTP Engineering
Wish it would get that cool here. Think it was 85 today.
Yup custom tuning @ $299 for the Miltown guys.
Tuning a strong force of street and track fighters representing there.
Yeti has the logging gear that makes custom tuning remotely- possible. Its a great service.
Yup custom tuning @ $299 for the Miltown guys.
Tuning a strong force of street and track fighters representing there.
Yeti has the logging gear that makes custom tuning remotely- possible. Its a great service.
Silk. I'm not banging on Scott's tune because he's proven himself with the Florida guys, but there is no way in hell I would pay $300 for a tune that isn't verified on a Dyno. I also wouldn't pay $300 for a tune where you would have to do the bulk of the legwork.
You can't get around the fact that numbers are numbers and an *** dyno is pretty useless.
Oh, and if we want to start the drama by asking inquisitive questions only to push your own product against the number one shop in the US...why don't you ask Jestr about his E-flash. I had an awesome tune that he updated 4 times based on my logs with a wideband and my *** dyno was off the charts. You should totally go on that data alone
Imagine what you could do with the 450 extra dollars!!! That's a lot of strippers
Oct 18, 2006, 06:24 AM
Originally Posted by TTP Engineering
It is overkill for those who drive their car as a commuter. Which I think is all but 2 people that regularly post in here.
For the rest that drive their car and unleash its capabilities, it is a great choice.
I have accomplished 1.72 avg on the stock clutch. Others locals have done 1.68 on the stock clutch. Not to minimize your driving skills, but a 1.77 on a ACT clutch is not an accomplishment. Wasn't trying to say it was, you will never eer find me saying I am a great drag racer or launcher of the car.
Comparing Mike's slow spooling FP3065 to your car is a poor comparison + Mike is a ****ty drag racer. (Sorry Mike) Are you telling me that my stock turbo'd 2003 with no launch control was a better car than Mikey's 3065, expertly tuned, 15psi at launch machine?
A Tilton clutch will do 1.5-1.6 60's all day long. Curt Brown does some sick 1.4 and 1.3's with it. I beleive it is possible. But you got to have the skillz to do it. I saw yesterday that 11.24 was possible on a STOCK (including tires) C6 Z06, doesn't mean if I bought one I would be in the low 11s
My first Tilton customer was a master of the SCCA SM class and wins each season so it is not only a drag clutch, it also works great in other applications like autox. Again, I don't think I said it was a drag only clutch, although I view it as probably a VERY GOOD drag clutch. I said it sucks as a daily driven clutch. It is illegal for any SCCA class below SM, you have to have a LOT of money to put together an SM prepped car.. Also in most autocross runs the clutch is use twice. Once to launch (often you cannot launch hard) and once to shift into 2nd. So the only benefit is the reduced rotational mass and the draw back is the increased risk of tripping the lights as you stall the car.
- Additional point to this... Win's locally? wins nationally? I have my 2006 which is stock + R-Compounds + TTP front engine mount + Shortshifter + Track pads and rotors, I don't launch it, and I went unbeaten in SM with my club this year... All with the stock clutch.
Buying a clutch is not about power level. It is about benefits and usage. Tilton cerametallic twin weighs only 19.1lbs and this unsprung weight loss increases spoolup time and unleashes additional whp. 1 - Clutch and Flywheel are not unsprung weight. Yes, the reduction in mass aid's spoolup, makes the engine free revving, but at a cost.. The cost is driveability.
The ACT is probably the worst clutch for drag application besides the exedy carbons. Street disc units are heavy and experience high RPM lockouts, make you grind gears and wear out your syncros. Can't argue with you there on what is the best or worst drag clutch, all I can say is that I never experienced any of this lockout with my ACT/Fidanza combo.
Furthermore Fidanza is junk. Its about $369 and the only benefit is the "replaceable center section" which takes about 3-4 weeks to get that piece from Fidanza. Once I received my first set from backorder, the heat cycled screws that hold it on fused to the flywheel and required the unit to be sent back to Fidanza so that they could replace the center section with custom tooling. If I had to spend $800 replacing the whole thing every 50k miles, that's not a big deal for me I guess..
There is a clutch for everyone. The cheap single disc is not the answer for everyone however.
For the rest that drive their car and unleash its capabilities, it is a great choice.
I have accomplished 1.72 avg on the stock clutch. Others locals have done 1.68 on the stock clutch. Not to minimize your driving skills, but a 1.77 on a ACT clutch is not an accomplishment. Wasn't trying to say it was, you will never eer find me saying I am a great drag racer or launcher of the car.
Comparing Mike's slow spooling FP3065 to your car is a poor comparison + Mike is a ****ty drag racer. (Sorry Mike) Are you telling me that my stock turbo'd 2003 with no launch control was a better car than Mikey's 3065, expertly tuned, 15psi at launch machine?
A Tilton clutch will do 1.5-1.6 60's all day long. Curt Brown does some sick 1.4 and 1.3's with it. I beleive it is possible. But you got to have the skillz to do it. I saw yesterday that 11.24 was possible on a STOCK (including tires) C6 Z06, doesn't mean if I bought one I would be in the low 11s
My first Tilton customer was a master of the SCCA SM class and wins each season so it is not only a drag clutch, it also works great in other applications like autox. Again, I don't think I said it was a drag only clutch, although I view it as probably a VERY GOOD drag clutch. I said it sucks as a daily driven clutch. It is illegal for any SCCA class below SM, you have to have a LOT of money to put together an SM prepped car.. Also in most autocross runs the clutch is use twice. Once to launch (often you cannot launch hard) and once to shift into 2nd. So the only benefit is the reduced rotational mass and the draw back is the increased risk of tripping the lights as you stall the car.
- Additional point to this... Win's locally? wins nationally? I have my 2006 which is stock + R-Compounds + TTP front engine mount + Shortshifter + Track pads and rotors, I don't launch it, and I went unbeaten in SM with my club this year... All with the stock clutch.
Buying a clutch is not about power level. It is about benefits and usage. Tilton cerametallic twin weighs only 19.1lbs and this unsprung weight loss increases spoolup time and unleashes additional whp. 1 - Clutch and Flywheel are not unsprung weight. Yes, the reduction in mass aid's spoolup, makes the engine free revving, but at a cost.. The cost is driveability.
The ACT is probably the worst clutch for drag application besides the exedy carbons. Street disc units are heavy and experience high RPM lockouts, make you grind gears and wear out your syncros. Can't argue with you there on what is the best or worst drag clutch, all I can say is that I never experienced any of this lockout with my ACT/Fidanza combo.
Furthermore Fidanza is junk. Its about $369 and the only benefit is the "replaceable center section" which takes about 3-4 weeks to get that piece from Fidanza. Once I received my first set from backorder, the heat cycled screws that hold it on fused to the flywheel and required the unit to be sent back to Fidanza so that they could replace the center section with custom tooling. If I had to spend $800 replacing the whole thing every 50k miles, that's not a big deal for me I guess..
There is a clutch for everyone. The cheap single disc is not the answer for everyone however.
Last edited by the-moss; Oct 18, 2006 at 06:29 AM.