EVOizmm

iTrader: (10)

on a newer car like an evo, SS brake lines wont net you a firmer pedal, unless you had air in your lines prior to installing the SS lines.

some brake fluid boiling points:
ATE® Super Blue (DOT 4), dry boiling point of 536F, wet boiling point of 396F.
Motul® RBF 600, dry boiling point of 593F, wet boiling point of 420F.
Castrol SRF (Dry 590/Wet 518)

Doing some reading and you should really be going buy the wet boiling point, and that SRF is almost 100 degrees more at wet boiling point than even the most talked up Motul600.

only thing is, its $75/liter. which i have no problem paying that now after my little off track experience.

dryad001

iTrader: (27)

If I was a MP in the military I wouldn't be required to have the 60 credits. They give you I believe 4-5 years to get your degree. I was just a dumb grunt in the 1/1.

Im still trying to sell the idea to the wife which she frowned upon last night when she saw the paperwork. The reason I say that is she got accepted to go back to school so she can get her MD, which would be another 8 years of school just for her. It wouldn't be a happy house if we both were in school.

If I do go for it I would take a paycut for the first few years and my 401k would be a bit more crappy.

Is it the right move to make? Who knows, but its been something that I was brought up around. When I did leave the military I did go through the entire application process but my dad who already had 20+ years in with the MPD put his say in the matter but this was also 11 years ago.

Tractionlimit

iTrader: (12)

I agree with that. Are you going to flush the lines? It's probably a good idea, but I'm thinking that will take more than a liter.

the-moss

iTrader: (3)

It really depends on how often you flush and replace your fluid. If you like to do it annually or less then the wet boiling point is far more important than dry. If you make flushing your fluid before every track day part of your routine then you really don't care about the wet boiling point and only care about dry.

You could buy yourself a pretty nice pressure bleeder and a whole lot of ATE superblue/gold for the price of a couple of litres of Castrol SRF. Assuming superblue's dry boiling point is good enough for you.

laakness

iTrader: (12)

What time is hooters tomorrow? Looks like they are where Pedro's used to be?

EVOizmm

iTrader: (10)

I did a fresh flush prior to BHF. I'm willing to bet the fluid is half way to the "wet" immediately after a flush.

The SRF and the Endless rf650 is suppose to hold up more and not become so "wet" right away. I'll have to go find the article i was reading and paste it up.

who needs a Pressure bleeders, a bleeder bottle is still the best method, even top race teams choose nothing but a bleeder bottle.

LAo_pRiNCe

iTrader: (1)

Are you talking about the pressurized bleeder bottle or just the catch bottle? Asking because I'm thinking about getting either the Pressure Bleeder or the Pressurized Bleeder Bottle because it's seems earlier than yelling ONNN....OOOFFFFFFFF lol

MidniteEco

iTrader: (6)

Yep, Pedro's became Hooters.
We usually meet up at 8:00. I'll be there.

MidniteEco

iTrader: (6)

The only method I've actually found simple for doing brakes was Alex's pressurized bleeder. Tom's also worked, but it was significantly slower than Alex's.

However, I'd much rather have someone in the car pressing the pedal than use the vacuum bleeders. With the vacuum bleeders I always get air leaking past the threads of the bleeder screw, causing air bubbles in the clear bleeder line and making it a real pain to see if you've actually gotten bubbles out of the brake line.

Tractionlimit

iTrader: (12)

My understanding was that a 'flush' uses far more fluid than a 'bleed'. Is this correct? Like you're actually wasting over a liter of new fluid when you flush to ensure that all of the old stuff is gone? Whereas a bleed you stop as soon as you see new fluid? I'm interested in the proper way to do this and want to get a kit to do it myself.

Also-when you open the hood and the fluid is bubbling like crazy, but there is still good pedal, is that boiling, or is it only boiling when there is no pedal? Mine bubbles like that every session, maybe even autocrossing .

LAo_pRiNCe

iTrader: (1)

Yes, bleeding uses far less fluids than flushing the system. But I flushed mine last year and it took about 3/4 a liter. If your seeing bubbles, it's not a good sign. Drive it hard for a little longer and the pedal will go on you I believe because it's near it's limit.

EVOizmm

iTrader: (10)

when you boil brake fluid, you will have no pedal, and probably no pedal for a few minutes. usually the fluid in your reservoir wont be boiling, never seen that before. it’s the fluid in your calipers thats boiling.

i do one flush a year before BHF (yes i waste probably a half liter of new fluid doing so). then i do frequent bleeds throughout the year.

many use those pressurized bleeders without an issue, those vacuum things suck (pun intended).

I still choose the bleeder bottle like this:

the-moss

iTrader: (3)

Yeah if you were on fresh fluid it sounds like Super blue isn't up to the task for you on street tires. I doubt it is halfway to wet immediately following a flush if you do it right. Wet is 3% water, so 1.5% is quite a lot to absorb immediately.

I'm interested to know what it means by the fluid not taking on water as much. I wonder if this means that it doesn't absorb water that is present in the system or it somehow doesn't allow water to be introduced into the system. If water is in the system you would want the brake fluid to absorb it. Otherwise that's some fluid that will boil at 212 deg.

Lastly I was thinking about this and I think that street tires are harder on a braking system at BHF than R-comps would be. On r-comps I (and others) are unable to hit as high of a max speed on the long straights as on street tires (presumably due to increased rolling resistance) and can corner faster so the speed differential between the start and end of those two big braking zones would be less. According to livermore performance braking harder for a shorter period of time introduces less heat into the system than braking softer for longer (all else being equal) r-comps would allow you to do this.

EVOizmm

iTrader: (10)

i cant imagine that R-comps would net slower top speeds on the straight. you should be able to carry significantly more speed through the corners. I noticed i was hitting my rev limiter in 4th much sooner on the front straight at BHF than with street tires. I do agree on having to be on your brakes for a longer period of time compared to street tires therefore heating up the pad more which would eventually transfer into the fluid.

the Endless brake fluid talks about hygroscopic, and how they are less effected by the water content.

more info:
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gd-braki...explained.html

the-moss

iTrader: (3)

You have a different car with a different suspension setup from last time you were there right?

I was hitting about 116 or so on street tires and only about 113ish on r-comps. Same car, same setup but 12 months apart. On the short straights I agree the corner exit speed will be so much higher on r-comps that you'll never overcome that on street tires but I think on those high speed straights the extra rolling resistance really comes into play. Kinda how at the drag strip if cars aren't traction limited they tend to do pretty well on snow tires.

That endless stuff looks pretty good if you need it and don't want to change it a bunch. I'm still on stock fluid in the honda and rarely get a soft pedal. I think superblue is gonna be fine for me.