MidniteEco

iTrader: (6)

I haven't looked into the TurboSmart EBC.
The Megan exhaust should be fine... some Megan parts have minor fitment issues, but it seems almost all aftermarket parts do.
I have the Injen intake and IC piping and would definitely recommend it. I don't remember what brand TractionLimit has on his car, but that was the best-fitting IC piping I have ever installed and it looks good too.

Bad Company

iTrader: (1)

My only other option right now is going back to stock set up. Is that still better than the HKS?

Jhutterer

I have the HKS and know nothing else because I bought the car with it on. I am working on recirculating it and see if helps the bog with loaded shifts. Also the car doesn't do very well when coming to a complete stop after a boosted drive, the RPM's drop to 500 and then go back up to 1000(I have checked for boost leaks.). I am hoping recirculating the HKS will help those issues.

whitedsm97

iTrader: (5)

i have a greddy that's fully circulated and does the same thing to sometimes. it really started when i replaced the stock box and drop in with a open air intake. also noticed the bov was louder. maybe i need a tune or something.

dgkm1981

iTrader: (1)

What's up. I'm signing in with my facebook now so I was dgkm81, now just dgkm1981. Anyways...thanks for the transfer case links, but i'm finding it unnecessary to replace it right now (especially cause the price to re-build is a bit much). Going to just go ahead an install the ACT 2900 clutch / ACT prolite flywheel and Brian Crower 280's and see how it works. If anyone can install a clutch I could pay cash by next weekend. I'm waiting for clutch kit and cams (just placed order today).

As for the bov issue that most people are having I noticed that all of the pressure drops and boost problems went away when I got rid of the HKS SSQV (crap bov, my opinion only) and replaced it with a fully recirculating Turbosmart one. Basically here's what I came up with after messing around for hours and driving back and forth at Miller Park :

1. Fully Re-circulate bov (if possible) + set bov spring to lightest setting, but not too loose that bob spring cap pops off (i did this on accident so be careful)
2. Delete boost solenoid (install mbc)
3. Plug wastegate actuator nipple on intake pipe (if applicable, i had to on K&N typhoon)
4. Turn boost down to about 16 (watch boost gauge)
5. Do 2nd and 3rd gear pulls back and forth on a secluded, open road (i go to miller park cause it's close to my home)
6. Listen for that "surge" sound (you will know it, i call it the "turbo turkey surge sound"). If you hear compressor surge "flutter" sound check that all clamps on intake pipe and upper intercooler pipe are secure
7. Continue to adjust bov spring either softer or harder (depending on bov spring you have, some have harder springs than others) until flutter dissappears and you only hear a "hard swoosh" sound
8. When "flutter is gone" go ahead and turn boost back up to 19 (or higher depending on you setup). *note: when boost is set higher the bov will make a very loud swoosh sound from bov, but i think it's normal because i have never had a problem or drop in boost pressure

dgkm1981

iTrader: (1)

to Bad Company : *these are just my opinions*

I had HKS SSQV and ran into some problems. First it needs its own welded flange and a custom upper ic. Once you start boosting higher you need to buy another spring. To fully recirculate you need to buy another HKS kit for that. If you install cams after that the bov will cause your car to stall at red lights and stop signs (i had to continually gas engine to keep from stalling). Than you buy HKS idle stabilizer to "stabilize" signal, but it does nothing to help.

Keep in mind that my EVO is basically a daily driver in summer and is in no way a huge hp track, drag evo either, which is why the HKS bov probably didn't work for me. If your running way higher boost and hp it will probably work just fine. I am not a HKS hater in any way I have just found their bov and cams to be a bit shabby for my application

MidniteEco

iTrader: (6)

Cheapest, simplest option is the Evo IX diverter valve (the metal one)... until you start boosting higher. I run up to 24 psi with mine and it's smooth as can be.

I had the SSQV recirculated - it just barely helped. You'll still stall out when stopping after a boosted run - just not quite as often.

dryad001

iTrader: (27)

I agree with midnight but if you want a better valve I use to run the APS unit and it worked great.

Standing Z

iTrader: (58)

Just go with the IX bov until you go over 25 psi. I upgraded to a synapse and it's great at times, but it flutters at part throttle. I eliminated most of the problem, but it's still annoying when it happens. I've never had a problem with it autocrossing or road racing

dgkm1981

iTrader: (1)

stupid question, but does anyone have an ams downpipe for sale? i'm looking for the 3", 3 bolt flange AMS downpipe. I have AMS test pipe and rest of exhaust all the way back, but now i want to run the test pipe and see how gnarly i can get the exhaust

Bad Company

iTrader: (1)

Saw 2 Evo's tonight coming home from UWM. A blue X (I think with a carbon fiber hood, not sure though I just caught a quick glimpse) right in front of the UWM Union just before 8pm. Then there was a white (maybe yellow, it was dark out) VIII (or IX) heading east down I-94 about 8:20pm. Just trying to match names and cars ha ha.

dgkm1981

iTrader: (1)

is it necessary to completely replace (buy) a brand new lower control arm if grease starts coming out of the boot that surrounds it? the evomoto instructions state that if "oxidation" or air gets into that boot that it could rust off while driving? is there any truth to this? or is there an easier solution to "sealing" the boot back up rather than having to buy a lower control arm? oh and does this apply to the boots on the tie rod ends as well? i busted them cause i used a "tie rod fork" which destroyed the boots and released grease everywhere. it's going to suck if have to buy new control arms and tie rod ends cause i already had to buy new axles

dryad001

iTrader: (27)

I had a bad boot a few years back. I got several boot kits from the auto store and I have no clue which one worked but I havent had a problem yet.

MidniteEco

iTrader: (6)

Are you talking about the boots on the ball joints? If so, the replacement boot from the dealer isn't expensive and it pretty easy to replace. I got cuts in mine doing my first clutch install so I replaced them a couple clutches later. No problems and I have over 100k miles on the car.

If you were to get rust in there and have problems, it is possible to replace the ball joints without replacing the control arms. You just press the old ones out and press the new ones in. Roll-center kits come with new ball joints.

dgkm1981

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Eco. I decided to go with the Whiteline Front Roll Center Adjustment Kit from rsaperformance.com (about $175 + free shipping) so I'm waiting for those to arrive next week. I'm currently in the process of trying to install my new act maxxtreme (stage 3), but keep hitting little "bumps" that are stopping me from completing this process. I am learning a lot about my car, but I'll just say that next time I decide to do this I would be more than happy to pay someone else. lol.