***Official SW Ohio Chat Thread***
#1456
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From: Kentucky
There is an access hole in the fence that is trimmed with yellow something, you actually aim for that when setting up for the carousel. You end up very deep into the turn before you turn in, making a very late apex. That will set you up perfectly for the flick to the left leading onto the front straight. It is disconcerting the first few times through there since the line doesn't make sense to your eyes, but once you get it right, it's very fast.
#1457
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From: Northern, KY
I just watched the video of mid-Ohio....I must be out of my mind to have this be my first HPDE event...haha! Granted the camera angle "could" have been bad but there are a ton of blind turns there.
I'm have to watch that a couple hundred more times and I'm sure i'll be ready to go...
I'm have to watch that a couple hundred more times and I'm sure i'll be ready to go...
#1462
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From: Cincinnati
Hey guys, I'm trying to get people to come to the dragon in Deals Gap this year. You can find out more about it here. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=261685 Sign up so we can have a good group of evo's down there June 8-10th!
#1464
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From: Northern, KY
I've been working on heel/toeing since last year -- you could always do what doug did and switch back and forth really quick....not the most effective way but it SHOULD slow you down B
#1465
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From: Cincinnati, OH
eh, I"m not very as you say "smooth at it" I honestly haven't practiced it much. Guess I"ll have to learn!
I"m not worried abotu stoping, I"m worried about having revs matched while braking that will be my biggest challenge. I have no problem rev matching, its just doing it while I have decent pressure on the brake pedal.
I"m not worried abotu stoping, I"m worried about having revs matched while braking that will be my biggest challenge. I have no problem rev matching, its just doing it while I have decent pressure on the brake pedal.
#1466
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From: Cincinnati, OH
If you switch back and forth you will end up with too much heat, you need to be short and hard on the brakes. And if you aren't so smooth on the street don't worry about it, things are totally different on the track. You will be threshold braking each and every time so it will be a lot easier to blip the throttle without jabbing the brakes too hard.
And about bleeding our brakes, after doing mine I have a spongy feel so I pulled the shop procedure up on my buddy's computer and they had a goofy bleeding procedure listed. I always go to the furthest caliper from the master cylinder and work my way in. I also bled the outter pistons first, then the inner. The shop procedure said to do passenger rear, then driver's front, then driver's rear, and finally passenger front. I don't necessarily see how this could make a difference, but like I said my pedal feels spongy after new brake lines and fluid. Do you guys do it the normal way like I typically do, or do you follow the shop procedure?
And about bleeding our brakes, after doing mine I have a spongy feel so I pulled the shop procedure up on my buddy's computer and they had a goofy bleeding procedure listed. I always go to the furthest caliper from the master cylinder and work my way in. I also bled the outter pistons first, then the inner. The shop procedure said to do passenger rear, then driver's front, then driver's rear, and finally passenger front. I don't necessarily see how this could make a difference, but like I said my pedal feels spongy after new brake lines and fluid. Do you guys do it the normal way like I typically do, or do you follow the shop procedure?