richardjh

I've finally got this fan fitted. It's a bit large as far as height goes, but the width is perfect (our stock SST cooler is wider than it is tall). The top part of the fan doesn't have any cooler to cool.

Fitment was relatively straightforward - just a couple of holes drilled to make for some strong bolt/bracket locations.

The fan was too big to fit flush against the cooler, but I made that less of a problem by adding a rubber padded seal around the circumference. This fan pulls a pretty huge amount of air - I test-ran it, and could easily feel air being sucked in the front foglamp duct. When putting my hand on the front side of the cooler unit, I could feel a lot of air being sucked through to the back of the cooler. So it does its job well.

Here it is...




But it's not working yet. The problem is, I'm no auto-electrics genius.

I really want to use the spare relay/fuse in the main engine fuse box to drive this fan, but I cannot for the life of me work out how to get in there.

I have a relay in there with a "headlight squirter/wiper" icon... and a dedicated 20A fuse to match. I have no such hardware, but the relay position is pinned, and has +12V to both "relay trigger" and the main power supply point. The service manual I have calls this the DRL relay position (but in my domestic market it's obviously not). So... relay, fuse, weatherproof box... all brilliant.

I want to find the wire colours leading from this relay (switched +12V, and trigger-ground), find them again where they terminate, and use them for the ultimate clean wiring install.

If only I could gain access to the rear of the fuse box!

I've removed the two bolts, unclipped the cable riser at the back left, unplugged the two white multi-pin plugs, and tried messing with the myriad little clips around the outside of the box - which presumably lock the main part to the bottom cover.

But then I'm stumped. Nothing moves, nothing unclips, the wiring looms are thick and inflexible (like me, lol)... how the hell do you get in there?


This kit came with a separate relay, fuse, etc. - but wherever I put that won't be as neat, secure or weatherproof as the main fuse box.


So right now I'm driving around with a fan installed that does nothing.

Anyone have some pointers for accessing the engine bay fuse box?

Rich

Subi.convert

iTrader: (2)

Why not wire it to your foglights? The only problem is you wouldn't be able to run it with the headlights on.

richardjh

Yes, a very interesting thought.

The "headlights on" issue wouldn't actually be relevant if I disconnected the foglamp "trigger" wire from its original ETACS ECU source, and instead ran it from my thermo controller unit. The "foglamp" circuit would then be switched on/off in isolation, based on SST cooler temps. No need to get into the fusebox. No issue with headlights, as there would be a different unit driving the relay.

The only wiring "discovery" would be the required trigger wire. Service Manual says that one's blue, from ETACS connector C-312. I reckon I can stretch to that.


The other consideration is the circuit rating... fogs versus fan. Fuse and wiring.

The Davies Craig fan comes with its own fuse and relay... and that supplied fuse is 10A. Service manual says the foglamp circuit is 15A fuse. That's good.

Wiring is 0.85mm2 from foglamp relay out to the lights... single wire, splits in two... same size wire at each point. So my understanding is that the existing foglamp wiring won't have an issue (ie. running 1xFan instead of 2xLamps).


Thanks.


Rich

Beeble

Rich,
I have my cooler pump+fan wired up through an external relay and a switch tucked in where the centre console (handbrake area) meets the floor carpet.
You can tap a fuse behind the glovebox that is either ACC or IGN switched, wire to your switch, then wire to your relay.

There is easy access to the outside world via the hole under the driver's seat (for O2 sensor cable) or for the front O2 sensor cable at the lower end of the firewall. Just pull up the driver's carpet to expose all these bits

My relay is in the engine bay near the main fusebox, and runs power direct from what would effectively be the battery in an RA (main fuse box in an Evo), with it's own fuse.

richardjh

I ended up using an external relay - the one supplied with the fan. The relay is fitted above the fan, hopefully well protected from the elements. I made sure the wiring was good - fuse right at the battery +ve terminal, good ground connection. All wiring is in that black plastic flexi-tube stuff.


For switching, I used that little eBay fan controller thing I posted up earlier. It works a treat.

I slotted the little temp sensor in between two cooler fins, in the bottom left... very gently reshaped two fins so there was a sensor-sized gap, and carefully installed it. Temps read just fine from there.

The controller is easy enough to set up, once you get the hang of it. I ended up fitting it behind the glovebox - if I want to change its switching temperature, I just drop the glove box and there it is.

It took hours and hours to install - I'm incredibly slow at auto-electrics.

But... finally... I have myself a temp-controlled SST cooler fan.


I'll get some photos of the controller some time, in its little hideaway spot.

Rich

richardjh

Having a temp sensor on the stock SST cooler unit is really interesting.

It was around 32C today, and I did quite a lot of driving (many runs for family stuff), and the cooler temp is extremely dynamic. Way more than I thought.

The cooler itself stays cool when the car is street-driven. It also sheds heat very quickly when the fan comes on. It was 38C on the rear face of the cooler while moving.

When you stop, all air movement ceases. The cooler face goes up within a minute to 60C, another minute to 70C, and then a couple more minutes to 75C. Obviously, once you stop, the cooler face temp trends up towards the temp of the fluid within.

I set my fan to come on at 75C, and off again at 60C. As soon as the fan switches on, you know it - that Davies Craig 8" thing is loud.

The cooler face drops 10C-12C within a very short space of time, eg. 60-90 seconds. After that, it slows... I guess that's where it starts to do some actual work, and is having to cool the fluid within. Kind of the point, eh...

But it works. The heat coming off is amazing - it will keep my front left tyre warm in the car park at the track! I need the same setup for the right hand wheel - engine oil cooler and fan coming up!!!! lol

Rich

richardjh

Here's where I ended up putting the controller unit... tucked away in a cavity near the glovebox:



It's well secured, so button-mashing on it is easy.

Rich

richardjh

I took the RA to the track today. Did a number of 2.5 minute (2 lap) blasts, with breaks between.

The cooling fan and controller worked perfectly - did their job really well indeed.

In today's conditions (warm), each 150-second track blast increased logged SST temp by a good 10 degrees or so.

If I came off with logged SST temp of 90C, the fan ran as I cooled down, parked up and waited. SST Temp usually dropped 10 degrees before my next run came around.

Perfect! I don't see the need to increase the size or position of the SST cooler itself - it's adequate for my quick Ralliart track escapades. SST is fine - there is now plenty of other stuff on the RA that will overhead before it!


How did they ever think this SST cooling setup was sufficient for the Evo X?

Rich

EVOXMR83

I think what you do is a good idea. I want also to do this. It is good for Street use.

But For extreme Trackdays you will need an bigger SST Cooler!
I know many who drive on track. And they all make a bigger Cooler in.
I will make it to. The parts are already at home.
I have some pics when you want to see.