Track Evo (Preping for long sessions)
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Track Evo (Preping for long sessions)
What mods must be made to the evo to prepare it for long 40 minute session on a high speed circit? I do plan on changing the brake fluid, pads, and maybe someother fluids to synthetic types. To people whom have done this, how does the oil temp, and water temp hold up? Right now i just started putting in all my gauges to motior all these parameters. Is there anything i have keep an eye on while out there? By the way, the engine will be stock with maybe an exhaust, but nothing else. the car will just have suspension mods. thanks
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my friend did a 40mins session on his over 300whp evo with no problem, oil/water temp was normal with no special cooling job had done, fresh (brake / clutch) fluid, pads, fresh engine oil should be prepared just when he's out from the track, the gas tank warning lights was on in the last lap, so fill up the tank.
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Do you know just how high the oil temps and water temps got? and how long the temps stay there? They're open track events, and i just like to stay out the whole time. there not always 40 minutes, sometimes just 20, other times 30, it varyies, but i want to over shoot so i can be on the safe side. I have been thinking of a lower thermostat switch, but i dont know how much that would help. Oh, can anyone tell me what the normal oil temps are when just driving around town. thanks
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I'd recommend a Mocal or equivalent 13 row oil cooler and an all - alu radiator with higher capacity. An exhaust is a good idea to keep the EGTs down if nothing else.
Also, heat shrouding and reflective tape on hoses near the manifold in the engine bay, catch tank and breather tank.
Alex
Also, heat shrouding and reflective tape on hoses near the manifold in the engine bay, catch tank and breather tank.
Alex
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at my fatt day at summit last year (i have defi bf oil press, oil temp and water temp guages) my water temp never went over 90c and my oil temp was right at 80c - never seemed to change. on hot days the oil temp usually stays 10c behind the water temp in normal driving around town. also a ten lap session on the 1.98 mi track ate the better part of a half a tank of gas!
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Originally Posted by nothere
I am not sure the gas tank will last fourty minutes.
I haven't noticed a higher water temperature on my bone-stock car on the track. My prep is basically limited to fresh oil and brake fluid.
Could a thermostat even make a difference? Once you hit operating temperature it's open and it's going to stay that way!
Dave
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On a hot day, and if I am beating the crud out of it, my temp gets to 110C, on the oil. Then I shut her down, and ride to cool her off. However, I, typically, am harder on my car than most. I only got two events out of the Yokos, before they were toast, and now I am on my second set of Falkens. Go figure, I am still on my stock clutch though. HOwever, i don't drag or autocross, so I think this is why it has lasted 18000 miles.
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Originally Posted by EVO8speed
Do you know just how high the oil temps and water temps got? and how long the temps stay there? They're open track events, and i just like to stay out the whole time. there not always 40 minutes, sometimes just 20, other times 30, it varyies, but i want to over shoot so i can be on the safe side. I have been thinking of a lower thermostat switch, but i dont know how much that would help. Oh, can anyone tell me what the normal oil temps are when just driving around town. thanks
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How would engine mods like 272 cams and ecu tuning affect the oil temps etc.. during long sessions? I think that having ecu tuning that brings the power on earlier in the RPM range would save me from pushing the engine to its max everytime. How have most people approched this situation?
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tracking the evo
Two of us drove my silver Evo, stage 4 EMS, Castrol high boiling point brake fluid, stsainless lines, upgraded brake pads, in 8 events in 2004, Mid Ohio, and VIR. One driver in A and the other in B. These were back to back run groups so the car was out for almost an hour with a cool down lap and a yellow caution first lap before the B group. Both fast agressive drivers. At VIR on the short course we changed the color of the front Brembos to a brown maroon color. Slight fade. I then added brake cooling ducts, 2.5 inch from the front grill to the calipers for the next event. Before the next event in 2005 I will change out the front brake set up to StopTech. Do not have an oil temp guage. Have fun the Evo is a HOOT. After over 50 such events in Porsches and an NSX this is the best and most fun I have had except runs made in a 956 Rothmans Porsche.
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Originally Posted by apexernsx
Two of us drove my silver Evo, stage 4 EMS, Castrol high boiling point brake fluid, stsainless lines, upgraded brake pads, in 8 events in 2004, Mid Ohio, and VIR. One driver in A and the other in B. These were back to back run groups so the car was out for almost an hour with a cool down lap and a yellow caution first lap before the B group. Both fast agressive drivers. At VIR on the short course we changed the color of the front Brembos to a brown maroon color. Slight fade. I then added brake cooling ducts, 2.5 inch from the front grill to the calipers for the next event. Before the next event in 2005 I will change out the front brake set up to StopTech. Do not have an oil temp guage. Have fun the Evo is a HOOT. After over 50 such events in Porsches and an NSX this is the best and most fun I have had except runs made in a 956 Rothmans Porsche.
Regarding upgrading to Stoptechs, have you considered upgrading your rotors to some two piece units? If you're generating alot of heat you're most likely 'warping' to solid discs to a cone shape, tapering the pads, etc, etc. I had this happen at my last track event using a set of PF97s. No fade but I destroyed the pads. Since then I've upgraded to the Stasis/Alcon rotors. I'll give those a shot this season coming up. At $1000 a pair, I figure they're worth experimenting with before dropping $4200 on a four wheel big brake set up.
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I made it through the season with the same rotors. I switched from the Panther 8 pads to Perf Friction 97. The brakes are good but not as good as some of the P cars I have drive.n I am going to add just the front StopTechs of the 330 mm or maybe it is 332 so that I can still use the 17" wheels. I ran 15-50 Mobil One. Did have a oil did stick blow out and spew oil. A catch can solved that issue. Vibration from a bad alternator tensioner caused an issue with retard. On the whole though it is a great DE car and with 4 doors you can take out the rear seat and through in 4-6 wheels and tires.