ikuto

iTrader: (11)

I'm looking to start going to some road course sessions next year. Do you really have to take off the center caps if your wheels have them? I guess they aren't secure enough under extreme cornering . It was also recommended to bring tools to be able to do some basic maintenance on your own car like jacks and torque wrenches on site too. I'd like some tips on getting started with the right preparations too.

rcheung

iTrader: (15)

The few tracks that I've been to do not require you to remove center caps. It may depend on which club or track your running with. I always have a decent toolset. You never know what may go wrong.

boomn29

iTrader: (47)

Yes. I had plastic-click centercaps on my 5Zigens and they literally melted and came off. The back tabs that click in got hot enough they melted in and I lost 2 in the same day.

I have since removed them; that's unneeded weight anyways right!

o-townFLA

iTrader: (4)

here's a pretty good checklist from one of southern California's running groups...

http://www.speedventures.com/events/trackchecklist.doc


...

theshadow

Engine oil - full flush Castrol Edge Sport 4W60 after every track session (+ new oil filter)
Brake Fluid - Motul RBF600 - full bleed and flush after every track session.
Brake Pads - check before and after every track session. Change about 3 times a year.
Brake Rotors - check after each track session. Change about once a year.
Transmission, Diff and ACD fluid - change every 2-3 months. Diaqueen FTW!
Air Filter - replace about once a month (dusty where I live) and clean out the MAF as well.
Tires - check before and after each session. I seem to use up 2-3 sets of R-comps per year!
Hoses, clamps and belts - check every 1-2 months, replace as necessary.
Suspension - retighten bolts to spec twice a year.
Alignment - reset roughly every 1-2 months.

Seems to do the trick...need to keep a close eye on pads, rotors, bushings, wheel bearings ans transfer case + clutch too.

Evos are pretty high maintenance I find - but that's the price of excellent on track performance. At least if maintennce is done regularly at least you're only fixing minor things frequently as opposed to major things. Or at least that's the idea.

Haven't had to be trailered from the track once yet so far.

cfdfireman1

iTrader: (11)

It's a real good idea to throw a new set of seals in the calipers once a year at least the fronts.

ott

Very good info here.

I would like to add, that don't run your brake pads thinner than 1/3 of original thickness - by then pad material is probably "burned" and is not working properly and whats most important, pad material isolates the heat from the disk to caliper and if pads are thin, it's easy to boil the brake fluid. As burned pad material is not working efficently, even more heat is generated, so problem becomes worse.

apagan01

iTrader: (299)

After a hard saturday of taking the car out all day and punding on the tarmac @ 399 WHP and 397TQ hard shifting, launches, a couple 1/4 mile pases,,,,, we like to change our engine oil and tranny with AMSOIL MTG, TC and rear diff with some fresh OEM Diaqueen

boomn29

iTrader: (47)

Going to bump this for more opinions on caliper maintenance and/or replacement. I've been tracking for a few years now and like most I've got some darkened brake calipers. They aren't brown-bo's like most refer to them and actually don't seem to be getting any darker especially since I added brake ducting last year.

Anyways, I want to be on-top of any potential maintenance issues and besides the SS lines, Ti shims, pads and fluid, my calipers are all stock internally. Should I be looking to replace parts?

1) Caliper Dust Boots
2) Caliper Seals
3) Caliper replacement altogether

boomn29

iTrader: (47)

I'll answer my own post here. You need to be on the lookout for any leaking seals. I bought replacements from Girodisc a few months back. I figured I'd be proactive. I was taking out the pads and one side had some fluid on the back of the shim! Meaning one of the seals was already going bad - so I was just in time! I plan to replace the seals and the dust boots once a year now. The dust boots go pretty quick, so don't worry if they become crusty. Cheap insurance to stay on top of and another DIY.

Also wanted to share a pic of my LF caliper. Anyone else have 1 side darker than the other? My outside 1/2 is a few shades darker than the inside. Is this normal?

Jeff_Jeske

iTrader: (66)

^ Nope... my entire caliper looks like a loaf of turd.

I change brake fluid before every event.

I change all drivetrain fluids one per year (end of season).

Motor oil gets changed when it turns black.

EvolvedMR

iTrader: (14)

Check the ducting to make sure there is a good seal against the rotor, so that all the air is going into the rotor and not on the caliper.

It's probably a differential cooling effect and nothing you can do.

boomn29

iTrader: (47)

Bump for new recommendations and advice!

I'm also going to add some advice I got from Marty who runs his Evo in SCCA T2:

Balrok

iTrader: (15)

So he's saying push it towards the car and away from the car, with the lugs torqued, and if you get play it's time right?

boomn29

iTrader: (47)

That's the way I read it. I'm planning to add these to my 'spares' I bring to the track with me. No idea where I'll get them or how to swap them out yet though...

I've got some time. It's like 7 degrees here today...