Maintenance Requirements for Tracked EVOs
#31
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I'm looking to start going to some road course sessions next year. Do you really have to take off the center caps if your wheels have them? I guess they aren't secure enough under extreme cornering . It was also recommended to bring tools to be able to do some basic maintenance on your own car like jacks and torque wrenches on site too. I'd like some tips on getting started with the right preparations too.
#32
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I'm looking to start going to some road course sessions next year. Do you really have to take off the center caps if your wheels have them? I guess they aren't secure enough under extreme cornering . It was also recommended to bring tools to be able to do some basic maintenance on your own car like jacks and torque wrenches on site too. I'd like some tips on getting started with the right preparations too.
The few tracks that I've been to do not require you to remove center caps. It may depend on which club or track your running with. I always have a decent toolset. You never know what may go wrong.
#34
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here's a pretty good checklist from one of southern California's running groups...
http://www.speedventures.com/events/trackchecklist.doc
...
http://www.speedventures.com/events/trackchecklist.doc
...
#35
Engine oil - full flush Castrol Edge Sport 4W60 after every track session (+ new oil filter)
Brake Fluid - Motul RBF600 - full bleed and flush after every track session.
Brake Pads - check before and after every track session. Change about 3 times a year.
Brake Rotors - check after each track session. Change about once a year.
Transmission, Diff and ACD fluid - change every 2-3 months. Diaqueen FTW!
Air Filter - replace about once a month (dusty where I live) and clean out the MAF as well.
Tires - check before and after each session. I seem to use up 2-3 sets of R-comps per year!
Hoses, clamps and belts - check every 1-2 months, replace as necessary.
Suspension - retighten bolts to spec twice a year.
Alignment - reset roughly every 1-2 months.
Seems to do the trick...need to keep a close eye on pads, rotors, bushings, wheel bearings ans transfer case + clutch too.
Evos are pretty high maintenance I find - but that's the price of excellent on track performance. At least if maintennce is done regularly at least you're only fixing minor things frequently as opposed to major things. Or at least that's the idea.
Haven't had to be trailered from the track once yet so far.
Brake Fluid - Motul RBF600 - full bleed and flush after every track session.
Brake Pads - check before and after every track session. Change about 3 times a year.
Brake Rotors - check after each track session. Change about once a year.
Transmission, Diff and ACD fluid - change every 2-3 months. Diaqueen FTW!
Air Filter - replace about once a month (dusty where I live) and clean out the MAF as well.
Tires - check before and after each session. I seem to use up 2-3 sets of R-comps per year!
Hoses, clamps and belts - check every 1-2 months, replace as necessary.
Suspension - retighten bolts to spec twice a year.
Alignment - reset roughly every 1-2 months.
Seems to do the trick...need to keep a close eye on pads, rotors, bushings, wheel bearings ans transfer case + clutch too.
Evos are pretty high maintenance I find - but that's the price of excellent on track performance. At least if maintennce is done regularly at least you're only fixing minor things frequently as opposed to major things. Or at least that's the idea.
Haven't had to be trailered from the track once yet so far.
#37
Very good info here.
I would like to add, that don't run your brake pads thinner than 1/3 of original thickness - by then pad material is probably "burned" and is not working properly and whats most important, pad material isolates the heat from the disk to caliper and if pads are thin, it's easy to boil the brake fluid. As burned pad material is not working efficently, even more heat is generated, so problem becomes worse.
I would like to add, that don't run your brake pads thinner than 1/3 of original thickness - by then pad material is probably "burned" and is not working properly and whats most important, pad material isolates the heat from the disk to caliper and if pads are thin, it's easy to boil the brake fluid. As burned pad material is not working efficently, even more heat is generated, so problem becomes worse.
#39
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Anyways, I want to be on-top of any potential maintenance issues and besides the SS lines, Ti shims, pads and fluid, my calipers are all stock internally. Should I be looking to replace parts?
1) Caliper Dust Boots
2) Caliper Seals
3) Caliper replacement altogether
#40
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Going to bump this for more opinions on caliper maintenance and/or replacement. I've been tracking for a few years now and like most I've got some darkened brake calipers. They aren't brown-bo's like most refer to them and actually don't seem to be getting any darker especially since I added brake ducting last year.
Anyways, I want to be on-top of any potential maintenance issues and besides the SS lines, Ti shims, pads and fluid, my calipers are all stock internally. Should I be looking to replace parts?
1) Caliper Dust Boots
2) Caliper Seals
3) Caliper replacement altogether
Anyways, I want to be on-top of any potential maintenance issues and besides the SS lines, Ti shims, pads and fluid, my calipers are all stock internally. Should I be looking to replace parts?
1) Caliper Dust Boots
2) Caliper Seals
3) Caliper replacement altogether
Also wanted to share a pic of my LF caliper. Anyone else have 1 side darker than the other? My outside 1/2 is a few shades darker than the inside. Is this normal?
#42
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Check the ducting to make sure there is a good seal against the rotor, so that all the air is going into the rotor and not on the caliper.
It's probably a differential cooling effect and nothing you can do.
It's probably a differential cooling effect and nothing you can do.
#43
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Bump for new recommendations and advice!
I'm also going to add some advice I got from Marty who runs his Evo in SCCA T2:
I'm also going to add some advice I got from Marty who runs his Evo in SCCA T2:
Originally Posted by Galant VR-4 #34
My best recommendation would be to check bearing often, before and after every event for sure and if you have a lot of track time prior to an important run. As you likely know just grab the wheel on top and bottom and try to move the wheel back and forth, side to side will not check wheel bearings......