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Road Course/Auto x Guys. A Re-circ bov w/o flutter is?

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Old Nov 30, 2005, 04:49 AM
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Road Course/Auto x Guys. A Re-circ bov w/o flutter is?

When running stock, it was fine. Then my stock plastic started leaking, then the nipple broke off of the top, so i went with the older forge unit. Worked fine.

LONG time ago, swapped to the injen intake, no problem with flutter.

Went to the intercooler not so long ago.... decent flutter on partial throttle corner exit.


Suggestions.

Thanks for your time.
Old Nov 30, 2005, 05:01 AM
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Originally Posted by WarmPepsi
decent flutter on partial throttle corner exit.
Me too, I'd love to get rid of it. My car is stock except for a Buschur TBE. I'm not sure whether it's compressor surge or the BOV. My only thought on how to get rid of it is to turn down the boost, but I'd rather not.

Dave
Old Nov 30, 2005, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by djh
Me too, I'd love to get rid of it. My car is stock except for a Buschur TBE. I'm not sure whether it's compressor surge or the BOV. My only thought on how to get rid of it is to turn down the boost, but I'd rather not.

Dave
..i was running 16-17 lbs on track. Less boost seemed to actually flutter more.


Anyone else?
Old Nov 30, 2005, 03:45 PM
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fyi .. kent jordan uses the stocker and pulls away from vipers on the straights. I think the stock Bov is the best solution.
Old Nov 30, 2005, 03:50 PM
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try the mr dv
Old Nov 30, 2005, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by bdking57
fyi .. kent jordan uses the stocker and pulls away from vipers on the straights. I think the stock Bov is the best solution.
then please take the time to read the whole first post, before responding.

To purchase a new stock bov, the plastic one, only to have it leak again, seems like a waste to me.

Also, you'll note that straight line power is not what i'm interested in, i'm interested in a unit that will not flutter at partial throttle. (corner exit). Any bov should hold constant boost at wot.

The forge unit i have might be remedied by more tweaking with the springs/shims, but i've tried about every combo to do avail.
Old Nov 30, 2005, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 4e0v8o
try the mr dv
thought about that, but also read about some higher than stock boost issues, so shyed away from that.
Old Dec 2, 2005, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by WarmPepsi
thought about that, but also read about some higher than stock boost issues, so shyed away from that.
My stock (plastic) d.v. popped on the dyno when it overboosted slightly during one run. The shop swapped in an aluminum unit from Dahlback Racing. This is a Swedish company that's VERY popular with turbo Porsche guys, even though the import crowd has yet to learn about them.

What I like about it is that it's almost the exact same size and shape as the stock uniut. Plus, it's annodized black. So you really don't notice it unless you specifically look for it. Those shiny BOV's seem to get service technicians panties in a knot.

Emre
Old Dec 3, 2005, 03:47 AM
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i looked up the site you linked, what are you currently running for mods? The forge unit i have right now is the same, black, but it's apparent i won't be getting any warranty coverage, unless i do some major removal

Also, what'd it cost?
Old Dec 3, 2005, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by WarmPepsi
i looked up the site you linked, what are you currently running for mods?
Nothing too dramatic. I've only got a Buschur turbo-back (with cat), Buschur intake, Hallman MBC set to 20 psi (soon to be raplaced with an AVC-R), and TurboTrix custom dyno tune. Other than that, it's just some gauges.

Originally Posted by WarmPepsi
The forge unit i have right now is the same, black, but it's apparent i won't be getting any warranty coverage, unless i do some major removal
So far, I've had no warranty trouble at all with my mods. I had two transfer-cases die...both times it was because dealers put in the wrong gear lube! They also replaced the tranny the second time because they didn't believe it was a transfer-case failure. All of this was covered without question.

Originally Posted by WarmPepsi
Also, what'd it cost?
I don't really know. I had my car on the dyno at a shop in Montreal and they overboosted it during one run (the guy turned the MBC the wrong way!). Since it was their fault, they replaced the D.V. at no charge. I was on my way to a track weekend and there was no time to get a stock D.V., so they ordered a Dahlback from their local supplier and installed it the next day at no charge.

Emre
Old Dec 3, 2005, 09:58 AM
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I think your best bet would be an adjustable BOV you can tune to your specific mods. I'm using a WORKS / Go Fast Bits hybrid BOV. It is adjustable in how much VTA / recirc and spring preload simply by hand turning specific "knobs". When I first installed it using the WORKS recommended settings, it did give me slight partial thottle surge. Through trial and error I have been able to completely eliminate it (when set to full recirc) on the track. On the street I run with the quietest VTA setting and it works fine as well. I have a very large FMIC ugrade, and a bunch of other mods, so adjustable was the way to go. It's expensive, but the quality is top notch.

Lastly, make sure the BOV control line is as short and free of bends as possible - it made a noticeable difference in the partial throttle response for me. If you need a long line, use the hard pipe that is on the stock setup, it helps a lot.
Old Dec 3, 2005, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by voidhawk
I think your best bet would be an adjustable BOV you can tune to your specific mods. I'm using a WORKS / Go Fast Bits hybrid BOV. It is adjustable in how much VTA / recirc and spring preload simply by hand turning specific "knobs". When I first installed it using the WORKS recommended settings, it did give me slight partial thottle surge. Through trial and error I have been able to completely eliminate it (when set to full recirc) on the track. On the street I run with the quietest VTA setting and it works fine as well. I have a very large FMIC ugrade, and a bunch of other mods, so adjustable was the way to go. It's expensive, but the quality is top notch.

Lastly, make sure the BOV control line is as short and free of bends as possible - it made a noticeable difference in the partial throttle response for me. If you need a long line, use the hard pipe that is on the stock setup, it helps a lot.
thanks for the tips, i'll see how it goes when i put it all back together, and try some new spring/shim combos tomorrow ( took it all apart, made sure everything was good and have t-bolts to replace old clamps).
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