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Track whores with MRs?

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Old Oct 19, 2007, 06:35 AM
  #556  
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Smooth downshifts and no powershifting for starters.

But I meant rev matching can be done correctly but too early, using the drivetrain to help slow the car.

Downshifting is to make sure you are in the power band when you need to get back on the throttle.

For example, as you approach a braking zone and slow the car down, the revs come down and fall out of the power band, this is when you blip and downshift. Much smoother and you will go faster.

Hope this helps.
Old Oct 19, 2007, 06:50 AM
  #557  
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3 - if you use socketless hose, make sure you heat the hose (not the ends) and it will make it *much* easier to put together.
Not sure if thats a good idea, it may stretch too much and compromise the clamping force on the fitting.

Better trick, spray some carb cleaner or brake cleaner on both parts and the hose will slide right on and then the stuff evaporates.

Also, just caught this:

Steady 180-190 ain't bad. I was seeing 210f+ with my 6spd and no cooler.
Both of these oil temps are far below the point that synthetics break down. Actually 210 is fine for standard oil. Synthetic oil temps above 250 is usually an indication somethings wrong but the oil is still fine. Oil starts to breakdown after 300. Most synthetics are tested at 300 to see how much evaporates after a set period of time (NOVAK test). Redline, Mobil 1 and Amsoil are your best over the counter oils. And these numbers are for motor oil, gear oil is even more resiliant.
Old Oct 19, 2007, 07:29 AM
  #558  
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Originally Posted by 4cdndctn
I miss the days of engine breaking

I don't know about you guys, but I have some significant throttle hang when I downshift - I'm subscribed to another thread where they are discussing how to programmatically reduce this, but the question has surfaced as to whether or not that was developed to reduce the wear and tear on the drivetrain.

Thoughts?
Use ecuflash to edit your idle stepper table to look like this. You will loose your cold start and have to use the pedal to keep the revs up during cold starts but the hang is gone

Old Oct 19, 2007, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by LDOGGYDIZZLE
Hey guys,

Ive got a 9. Ive been to the track at least 10 times this season with my car with no tranny issues running it at its fullest potential. A couple of these were with AMS during thier track days and I was an instructor. On those trackdays, the car only had time to rest while the passanger/student/AMS employees changed in the pass seat. Almost ran every session, back to back, on those days.

Car now has 27k on it and was first at the track with only 600mi on the odometer when I got it last year. Ive been to Road America in it several times, Autobahn tons of times and have been known to screw around/drift in the wet. I also Ice solo on lake Hustisford with it. I also admit to launching it with the launch control many times.

At 27k, the stock clutch is starting to slip. No other technical problems with the car.

TBE, Drop-in, AMS flash. 28psi on race gas on the track. 312whp on pump.

1 qt Super light weight shock proof topped off with MT90. Same as we run in our road race Prelude.

Heavier oil will INCREASE temps. Shearing thicker oil produces more heat. Not shifting correctly and using your engine and trans to help slow you down creates the most heat. I'd have to say first its technique, second its the oil.

I wouldnt trade the 6spd for the 5 if you paid me. 6spds is always better for accel on a road race track. Closer ratio. And remember, theres peeps out there that have figured out how to break shep trannies. Dont give up.

MHO.
Originally Posted by V.8MR
Use ecuflash to edit your idle stepper table to look like this. You will loose your cold start and have to use the pedal to keep the revs up during cold starts but the hang is gone
Are there any other known issues?
Thanks for posting-
Old Oct 19, 2007, 08:42 AM
  #560  
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The hang I believe you guys are reffering to is antilag. Dont get rid of it. You shouldnt be using the drivetrain to slow you down any way.

The only issues Ive had is replacing rotors, pads and tires!
Old Oct 19, 2007, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by LDOGGYDIZZLE

Both of these oil temps are far below the point that synthetics break down. Actually 210 is fine for standard oil. Synthetic oil temps above 250 is usually an indication somethings wrong but the oil is still fine. Oil starts to breakdown after 300. Most synthetics are tested at 300 to see how much evaporates after a set period of time (NOVAK test). Redline, Mobil 1 and Amsoil are your best over the counter oils. And these numbers are for motor oil, gear oil is even more resiliant.
True, however these temps are being recorded at the drain plug, which is bolted into the aluminum case that has a bunch of heatsink fins. The temps at the tooth face are unknown and are undoubtedly significantly higher.
Old Oct 19, 2007, 02:14 PM
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There's no antilag on the USDM cars. I think the hang is more to do with emissions control.
Old Oct 20, 2007, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by mrfred
I think the hang is more to do with emissions control.
I remember the first time Rodney and I autocrossed mine, it maybe had 1,000 miles on it. We were totally freaked out about the hang since in both our Hondas we had a practice of hard braking after a finish line and simultaneously clutching in and putting the gear shifter into neutral and coasting to hear or see our times.

LOL the first time we went across the finish line ***** out and tried that method we were both totally freaked that the boost kept the RPM up there while we coasted. We thought there was something scary wrong but figured it out soon after. You could say we were new to boost

Something else that gave us a laugh was that since we are both Honda guys we also tended to trail brake like ***** to rotate. Well ya can't do that too much in the EVO when hard on the throttle, it just heats up the clappers and fades the pads
Old Oct 20, 2007, 10:05 PM
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lol... yeah definitely a different technique required!
Old Oct 20, 2007, 10:14 PM
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i remember rodney or should i say rod knee
he remembers my red hatchie from the old school days with yasu
Old Oct 22, 2007, 12:56 PM
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It sure works exactly like antilag! Keeps the turbo spinning. Call it what you want, but I likey.

Come to think about it, it maybe Mitsu's way of keeping us from slowing the car down using the drivetrain and reducing back load on the trans gears.
Old Oct 24, 2007, 05:44 AM
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A related question...

This winter I'll be doing a few TSD rallys in a MR where I'll be in 4th gear for most of a couple of hours at a stretch averaging 45MPH over varied road conditions (some hills) with external temps being below freezing. Should I be worried about heat buildup in the tranny?

George M
Old Oct 24, 2007, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by conevadr
A related question...

This winter I'll be doing a few TSD rallys in a MR where I'll be in 4th gear for most of a couple of hours at a stretch averaging 45MPH over varied road conditions (some hills) with external temps being below freezing. Should I be worried about heat buildup in the tranny?

George M
Are you sure you'll be in 4th?
Old Oct 24, 2007, 09:06 AM
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Most of the time will be spent in 4th at partial throttle. Corners and hills will mostly be third, unless really nasty. The TSD rallys that we do here in western NY are on secondary and some seasonal roads, some very curvy and hilly, mostly traction limited. Some of the competitors use studded tires and still fight traction to maintain speed. I'm hoping that since I'm not WOT, and since external temps are cold that internal heat buildup/damage shouldn't be a problem, even with using a lot of 4th gear.

George M
Old Oct 24, 2007, 09:48 AM
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4th gear @ 45mph doesn't sound right, but that's just me...and I grew up in Rochester


Regardless, if you're racing with a 6 speed, use a tranny cooler. Period.


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