Track whores with MRs?
Nov 8, 2007, 05:13 PM
#616
I've been thinking.... how many guys have had more than 20+ track events on large road courses like streets of willow with their stock undertrays, oem tranny fluid and Stock clutch? Inaddition to that how much power are you making and with what parts and boost on the car?
I didn't have to go to the track to f'up my tranny I just stuck an ACT Xtreme clutch in there. I was just driving on the street wasn't even hard on it and when it wore down on me thats when i had synchro problems. I get that the 6 speed is weak but I just love it, I've been hesitent about switching over to the 5 speed mainly because the 6 speed has much better gearing for road racing.
I didn't have to go to the track to f'up my tranny I just stuck an ACT Xtreme clutch in there. I was just driving on the street wasn't even hard on it and when it wore down on me thats when i had synchro problems. I get that the 6 speed is weak but I just love it, I've been hesitent about switching over to the 5 speed mainly because the 6 speed has much better gearing for road racing.
Nov 8, 2007, 07:05 PM
#619
I've been thinking.... how many guys have had more than 20+ track events on large road courses like streets of willow with their stock undertrays, oem tranny fluid and Stock clutch? Inaddition to that how much power are you making and with what parts and boost on the car?
I didn't have to go to the track to f'up my tranny I just stuck an ACT Xtreme clutch in there. I was just driving on the street wasn't even hard on it and when it wore down on me thats when i had synchro problems. I get that the 6 speed is weak but I just love it, I've been hesitent about switching over to the 5 speed mainly because the 6 speed has much better gearing for road racing.
I didn't have to go to the track to f'up my tranny I just stuck an ACT Xtreme clutch in there. I was just driving on the street wasn't even hard on it and when it wore down on me thats when i had synchro problems. I get that the 6 speed is weak but I just love it, I've been hesitent about switching over to the 5 speed mainly because the 6 speed has much better gearing for road racing.
Synchro problems can often be chalked up to poor shifting, especially since the 6sp really has no history of faulty synchros.
Clutch shouldn't matter if you're shifting properly, an aftermarket clutch can introduce more of a shock load, but again, poor shifting winn introduce problems that proper shifting will avoid.
The stock undertray will definitely help since it does direct some air to the case. As far as how much, it's difficult to tell without test results.
Nov 8, 2007, 08:13 PM
#621
I'm on the stock undertray but have only tracked the Evo twice. I'm hesitant to do more until I find a solution.
Synchro problems can often be chalked up to poor shifting, especially since the 6sp really has no history of faulty synchros.
Clutch shouldn't matter if you're shifting properly, an aftermarket clutch can introduce more of a shock load, but again, poor shifting winn introduce problems that proper shifting will avoid.
The stock undertray will definitely help since it does direct some air to the case. As far as how much, it's difficult to tell without test results.
Synchro problems can often be chalked up to poor shifting, especially since the 6sp really has no history of faulty synchros.
Clutch shouldn't matter if you're shifting properly, an aftermarket clutch can introduce more of a shock load, but again, poor shifting winn introduce problems that proper shifting will avoid.
The stock undertray will definitely help since it does direct some air to the case. As far as how much, it's difficult to tell without test results.
Nov 8, 2007, 08:25 PM
#622
Your problem may have something to do with high rpm lockout, but not a full lockout. If the clutch disc is dragging slightly then its still trying to keep the engine revved almost as if it was never fully disengaged. If its not disengaging 100%, it isn't letting the synchro match the input shaft as easily it should. The synchro may be able to overcome the clutch drag and still shift, but it will do so at the expense of excessive wear.
Has shifting felt a little stiff or does it seem to "grind" much?
Has shifting felt a little stiff or does it seem to "grind" much?
Nov 8, 2007, 08:42 PM
#623
Shifting is fine when slow, I mean 100% fine. It'll happen at mid or high rpms and only for 4th gear. I only experienced this problem in reverse when it wouldn't go into gear all the way but it eventually went away by itself. I've spoken to Jon at TRE and he did say that the clutch itself was much more harsh on the tranny because it's using clamp load force to hold power instead of the friction material on the friction plate itself. So I guess it makes sense... I adjusted the clutch pedal rod and moved it to the highest possible point, but it still didn't do it. I mean the grinding jsut got less intense, haha I'm not kidding.
Nov 9, 2007, 08:17 AM
#624
Have you tracked it any and how do you like it compared to stock. I know my 2nd gear is a little notchy on cold mornings with stock fluid. I am down to the Amsoil or Motul...just trying to decide which one is best.
Also for anybody wondering I have been exchanging emails with a motul technician and he said the Gear 300 even being GL5 certified is completely safe in our transmission. They use different type of additive and detergeants I guess that is not harmful but allows them to meet GL4 and GL5 requiremens.
On questions for you guys though does the rear diff and transfer case have to be 90wt. Because I see some people run the Motul 75-140 Competition gear oil but the motul tech reccomend 90pa fluid. Or do you think the stock Diaqueen fluid is adequate for daily driven and occasional tracking?
Also for anybody wondering I have been exchanging emails with a motul technician and he said the Gear 300 even being GL5 certified is completely safe in our transmission. They use different type of additive and detergeants I guess that is not harmful but allows them to meet GL4 and GL5 requiremens.
On questions for you guys though does the rear diff and transfer case have to be 90wt. Because I see some people run the Motul 75-140 Competition gear oil but the motul tech reccomend 90pa fluid. Or do you think the stock Diaqueen fluid is adequate for daily driven and occasional tracking?
I'd run Redline shockproof in the TC and rear diff if I were tracking the car.
Last edited by mrfred; Nov 9, 2007 at 08:20 AM.
Nov 10, 2007, 01:58 PM
#625
I haven't tracked the car. Just daily driving with the occasional run though the canyons. 2nd gear is still notchy with this Amsoil product. I'm tempted to try some sort of shockproof - amsoil combo to see if it makes shifting better or worse.
I'd run Redline shockproof in the TC and rear diff if I were tracking the car.
I'd run Redline shockproof in the TC and rear diff if I were tracking the car.
Nov 12, 2007, 05:56 PM
#630
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The AMSOIL Fluid recommended for the 5 and 6 spd trannies is Product Code MTG.
If anyone is interested, I sell AMSOIL Products at the lowest price available to all EvoM Forum Members... Best Prices and Service to boot..
Doc
If anyone is interested, I sell AMSOIL Products at the lowest price available to all EvoM Forum Members... Best Prices and Service to boot..
Doc
I havent checked this thread for awhile, but wondering if anyone has used or has any thoughts on this fluid, Amsoil Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube 75W-90 API GL-4:
http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/mtg.aspx
Heres a quick quote that sounds pretty nice:
I run Amsoil in the engine, saw this in their brochure so I thought Id ask if anyone has used it.
-Ryan
http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/mtg.aspx
Heres a quick quote that sounds pretty nice:
I run Amsoil in the engine, saw this in their brochure so I thought Id ask if anyone has used it.
-Ryan