Track pad question...
Sep 21, 2006 | 10:58 AM
#46
Well I've got WORKS (Racing Brake) 2-piece rotors and will be trying PF-01's frt and rr for the first time next Saturday. I've had pretty good luck with the level max 900 as well. They crumbled under very hot hard braking, but are very inexpensive to replace. (I did prefer them overall to Carbotech's XP12).
Looks like the Hawks may be the way to go if the PF-01's don't perform well. I'll be braking late and hard to find out!
Johannes
Looks like the Hawks may be the way to go if the PF-01's don't perform well. I'll be braking late and hard to find out!
Johannes
Sep 21, 2006 | 11:10 AM
#47
Originally Posted by johannes
Well I've got WORKS (Racing Brake) 2-piece rotors and will be trying PF-01's frt and rr for the first time next Saturday. I've had pretty good luck with the level max 900 as well. They crumbled under very hot hard braking, but are very inexpensive to replace. (I did prefer them overall to Carbotech's XP12).
Looks like the Hawks may be the way to go if the PF-01's don't perform well. I'll be braking late and hard to find out!
Johannes
Looks like the Hawks may be the way to go if the PF-01's don't perform well. I'll be braking late and hard to find out!
Johannes
PM me for the best DTC pricing !
-Kyle
Sep 21, 2006 | 08:47 PM
#48
Originally Posted by Kayaalp
Castrol SRF is kind of ridiculous for what it costs. Check out this table:
http://www.bmwquebec.ca/bmw/technical/brake_fluids
Notice how the dry boiling point of SRF (590°F) is exactly the same as AP Racing 600 and Motul RBF600? Yet, it's $70/liter compared to $25/liter for the other two!
The big deal with SRF is it's high wet boiling point. Since we all flush our brake fluid before each event, who cares about wet boiling points? We're interested in dry boiling points...and there are several fluids out there that have even better dry boiling points and still cost less than SRF.
Emre
http://www.bmwquebec.ca/bmw/technical/brake_fluids
Notice how the dry boiling point of SRF (590°F) is exactly the same as AP Racing 600 and Motul RBF600? Yet, it's $70/liter compared to $25/liter for the other two!
The big deal with SRF is it's high wet boiling point. Since we all flush our brake fluid before each event, who cares about wet boiling points? We're interested in dry boiling points...and there are several fluids out there that have even better dry boiling points and still cost less than SRF.
Emre
I will be changing it prior to the runoffs, but the time I save by not bleeding my brakes or having to worry about it makes the added price well worth it to me. Youll also notice a stiffer peddle feel with SRF.Marty
T2 Nationals
SCCA
Sep 22, 2006 | 05:45 AM
#49
Originally Posted by Galant VR-4 #34
I see by reading the dry boiling points as to why you would say that but I did try the AP Racing 600 and it boiled the first session out and every session of the day. The deal with SRF is 1. I have never boiled it and I race for 40 minutes straight and 2. with the SRF you dont have to change it before every event, as a matter of fact I have 10 races, 1 time attack and numerous quals on the original SRF I put in back in the spring and I have yet to boil it I will be changing it prior to the runoffs, but the time I save by not bleeding my brakes or having to worry about it makes the added price well worth it to me. Youll also notice a stiffer peddle feel with SRF.
Marty
T2 Nationals
SCCA
I will be changing it prior to the runoffs, but the time I save by not bleeding my brakes or having to worry about it makes the added price well worth it to me. Youll also notice a stiffer peddle feel with SRF.Marty
T2 Nationals
SCCA
Most of us don't HAVE to change it before every event. It's a safety item, and doing a flush every few events and a fresh bleed before an event on a street car is a good idea.
Also, you really can't run an evo in a 40 minute hard session, as many are coming back 1 gear less than when they started. (at least not a 6 spd
).
Sep 22, 2006 | 06:35 AM
#50
Originally Posted by WarmPepsi
Marty,
Most of us don't HAVE to change it before every event. It's a safety item, and doing a flush every few events and a fresh bleed before an event on a street car is a good idea.
Also, you really can't run an evo in a 40 minute hard session, as many are coming back 1 gear less than when they started. (at least not a 6 spd ).
Most of us don't HAVE to change it before every event. It's a safety item, and doing a flush every few events and a fresh bleed before an event on a street car is a good idea.
Also, you really can't run an evo in a 40 minute hard session, as many are coming back 1 gear less than when they started. (at least not a 6 spd
)./Marty
Sep 22, 2006 | 06:49 AM
#52
Evolved Member
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 9,002
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From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
I would be, my old Impala SS had a trans cooler stock (aka cop package). I would prefer to have one on my Evo.
What parts did you use? Kit?...
What parts did you use? Kit?...
Jun 8, 2007 | 10:48 AM
#54
Ive used both PFC-01/97 and Carbotech XP11s on my T2 spec Evo. to me they are pretty much the same. They both have very good bite and both scar my rotors once they overheat and the pads start to crumble(i do have the cooling guides) I since have switched to DTC 70s and they are much more rotor friendly, they do not have the same amount of bite as the other two, but they are more linear and therefor easier to control your braking. Depending on the track, I typically cannot get more than 2 races on a set of front pads, regardless of which of the 3 ive used. My back pads are PF97s and they are doing just fine after 8 races. I think ill switch to something a bit more aggressive in the back for the runoffs, with ABS and EBD you really dont have to worry too much about over braking the rear, it also makes threshold braking. Also, as for brake fluid, Im amazed that people like racing blue, I boil that stuff easy. Yes my calipers are jet black now I use SRF and if I cant get that I use NEO. While SRF is more $ you put it in at the beginning of the season and you dont have to blead it till the end of the season, to me thats worth the extra $ right there. You can purchase them at AMSPerformance.com tell em Marty sent you
Marty
T2 SCCA Nationals
Sponsored by AMSPerformance
I use SRF and if I cant get that I use NEO. While SRF is more $ you put it in at the beginning of the season and you dont have to blead it till the end of the season, to me thats worth the extra $ right there. You can purchase them at AMSPerformance.com tell em Marty sent you Marty
T2 SCCA Nationals
Sponsored by AMSPerformance
Jun 8, 2007 | 11:23 AM
#56
Jun 8, 2007 | 12:26 PM
#58
I've said this 100 times before, but I guess it bears repeating: Track pads are for the track. Street pads are for the street. There is no such thing as a great track pad that also works well on the street. They are designed to work in entirely different heat ranges. Anyone who says they have a pad that works well on both street AND track is either not pushing their car very hard at the track, or is deaf to the squealing and blind to the dust and rotor wear they are getting on the street.
If you are doing track events, do yourself a favor and buy a set of track pads that you install just for the weekend. Hawk DTC-70 or DTC-60 are great choices.
Jun 8, 2007 | 02:06 PM
#59
No, I am not joking, I do drive my car on the street with DTC-70s with np. I think its fine for short trips and puttin around town. Of course I recommend street pads for the street over them but driving to and from track events or the occasional drive on the street is fine. IF I got in my car right now, went to 60 mph and had to brake quickly it would not be a problem. Would they work as well as a street pad? No, but they would work just fine. Maybe not in Minnesota in the winter, but in Virginia in the summer, np. But just so Im clear, no it is not an everyday street pad and Id never recommend it be used in that way, and at over 400.00 per set, you'd be crazy to anyways.
Marty
Marty
