Autocross EVO - Street Modified Build
Feb 23, 2007, 07:32 AM
#211
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I have upgraded Stoptech SS brake lines, use ATE super blue and Hawk HP+ pads, I'm waiting for my stock rotors to get eaten up before I move to slotted. Eventually I'll move into SM as my car will turn into a road course vehicle rather than autox and will probably upgrade from the stock brembos.
Feb 23, 2007, 07:53 AM
#212
you can never have too much caster. 
The Evo only has 3.5 degrees from the factory, adding an additional degree not only help increase the dynamic caster change, but also helps the car "self correct", meaning that the car will want to track in a straight line and really helps remove the "twitchiness" from really aggresive alignments. I can't imagine this would be a bad thing on a road racing setup.
The Evo only has 3.5 degrees from the factory, adding an additional degree not only help increase the dynamic caster change, but also helps the car "self correct", meaning that the car will want to track in a straight line and really helps remove the "twitchiness" from really aggresive alignments. I can't imagine this would be a bad thing on a road racing setup. ... plus how long are you in a straight line during an auto-x course anyways? .... No doubt it provides dynamic camber change in the front during dive but if you are running stiffer springs how much more dive are you really getting? Anyways it's all about compromises when it comes to tuning suspension ...
Feb 23, 2007, 08:02 AM
#213
Why are you guys getting slotted rotors? They will chew your pads up quicker and provide less frictional area and less area to dissipate heat. I would stick with blanks. Two piece rotors (not drilled or slotted) would be the best upgrade to shed weight.
As far as pads, Hawk HP+ requires some heat before they work properly. Hawk HPS works right away cold. HPS would be better unless you are fading them (which would require extremely fast long courses, unless you are overbraking for turns). They are a lot less $ too.
As far as pads, Hawk HP+ requires some heat before they work properly. Hawk HPS works right away cold. HPS would be better unless you are fading them (which would require extremely fast long courses, unless you are overbraking for turns). They are a lot less $ too.
Feb 23, 2007, 11:38 AM
#215
No. Unless it is your only available option, it is definitely not the best. It will make less than 1/2 the downforce of a properly designed splitter/undertray that is made specifically for the evo and for our rules.
But, for the racer on a budget looking for a gain, for the $$ it is not bad. Especially if you can pick one up used. My buddy got one for $180 shipped!
An updated version of this will be available in the spring:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=215186
But, for the racer on a budget looking for a gain, for the $$ it is not bad. Especially if you can pick one up used. My buddy got one for $180 shipped!
An updated version of this will be available in the spring:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=215186
Last edited by EVOlutionary; Feb 23, 2007 at 11:50 AM.
Feb 23, 2007, 12:14 PM
#216
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Yes, but only by a little bit. It's hardly noticable.
and you'll need Conan the Barberian arms just to turn the steering wheel (joke) ... plus how long are you in a straight line during an auto-x course anyways? .... No doubt it provides dynamic camber change in the front during dive but if you are running stiffer springs how much more dive are you really getting? Anyways it's all about compromises when it comes to tuning suspension ...
I am still getting enough front diving to lift the inside rear. The caster also helps reduce the effects of a very aggressive front alignment that has toe out for extra turn-in bite.
overall I highly recommend extra caster if you can do it. especially if you are street driving your autocross evo...
and you'll need Conan the Barberian arms just to turn the steering wheel (joke)
... plus how long are you in a straight line during an auto-x course anyways? .... No doubt it provides dynamic camber change in the front during dive but if you are running stiffer springs how much more dive are you really getting? Anyways it's all about compromises when it comes to tuning suspension ...
overall I highly recommend extra caster if you can do it. especially if you are street driving your autocross evo...
Feb 23, 2007, 12:16 PM
#217
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Why are you guys getting slotted rotors? They will chew your pads up quicker and provide less frictional area and less area to dissipate heat. I would stick with blanks. Two piece rotors (not drilled or slotted) would be the best upgrade to shed weight.
As far as pads, Hawk HP+ requires some heat before they work properly. Hawk HPS works right away cold. HPS would be better unless you are fading them (which would require extremely fast long courses, unless you are overbraking for turns). They are a lot less $ too.
As far as pads, Hawk HP+ requires some heat before they work properly. Hawk HPS works right away cold. HPS would be better unless you are fading them (which would require extremely fast long courses, unless you are overbraking for turns). They are a lot less $ too.
so far, my slotted rotors and hawk HPS pads have lasted 2 seasons of autocross and almost +60k miles of street driving.
what wear are you refering too?
Feb 24, 2007, 04:12 AM
#219
I'm referring to the excessive wear that a number of my friends have had using slotting rotors, though they were using their cars on the track. I guess if you are just autocrossing (which isn't that hard on brakes) and doing a lot of highway driving it doesn't matter. But I don't think you'll find a single person who tracks their car regularly and has used both blanks and slotted and prefers slotted. Besides, other than looks, what advantage do they offer?
Feb 24, 2007, 04:33 AM
#220
I'm referring to the excessive wear that a number of my friends have had using slotting rotors, though they were using their cars on the track. I guess if you are just autocrossing (which isn't that hard on brakes) and doing a lot of highway driving it doesn't matter. But I don't think you'll find a single person who tracks their car regularly and has used both blanks and slotted and prefers slotted. Besides, other than looks, what advantage do they offer?
which.... increases wear
Feb 24, 2007, 07:46 PM
#222
No. Unless it is your only available option, it is definitely not the best. It will make less than 1/2 the downforce of a properly designed splitter/undertray that is made specifically for the evo and for our rules.
But, for the racer on a budget looking for a gain, for the $$ it is not bad. Especially if you can pick one up used. My buddy got one for $180 shipped!
An updated version of this will be available in the spring:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=215186
But, for the racer on a budget looking for a gain, for the $$ it is not bad. Especially if you can pick one up used. My buddy got one for $180 shipped!
An updated version of this will be available in the spring:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=215186
Thanks!
Mar 5, 2007, 08:24 AM
#224
I'm sorry for posting a BSP specific question on The SM thread and the reason is that I did not want to start a new one since most bsp guys hang in here too. I wanted to know, since the rules for SP allows the use of cam gears, are any of you guys using them with the stock cams? What are the gains in term of hp/tq and most importantly powerband shift? In theory we should be able to at least be able to fatten the area under the curve.
Mar 5, 2007, 10:44 AM
#225
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I'm sorry for posting a BSP specific question on The SM thread and the reason is that I did not want to start a new one since most bsp guys hang in here too. I wanted to know, since the rules for SP allows the use of cam gears, are any of you guys using them with the stock cams? What are the gains in term of hp/tq and most importantly powerband shift? In theory we should be able to at least be able to fatten the area under the curve.
I plan on doing this myself, but my money is better spent on suspension/tires first.
John