Hot Lap Motorsports Front Tow Hook Installation (w/Pics)
Dec 24, 2006, 10:35 AM
#1
Hot Lap Motorsports Front Tow Hook Installation (w/Pics)
Hot Lap Motorsports Front Tow Hook Installation
For those who have the motorsport addiction, we take our street driven (or previously street driven) cars out on race tracks and push them in the quest for low lap times and that ear-to-ear grin on the track. So what happens when that grin gets the best of you and you find yourself beyond your personal limits or your cars? Answer, you in up in the kitty litter, the thick stuff, mean green…well you get the point – you are now going to get towed out of it, whether you want to or not.
Directly quoted from the NASA rulebook –
Notice the word damage in their statement – that doesn’t sound too good, does it?
Now, I have not found myself in outside of where the tarmac ends and the grass starts, maybe a wheel here and there, but not all four. Not saying I am great (in fact, I still say I am very much a novice in this arena), just a bit of luck, and some driving. Not that I want to end up in the greater outdoors, mind you.
The truth is – I want to be well prepared if I ever end up in that situation. Mitsubishi did a good job with these cars, but reasonably, they never would expect the average owner to need tow hooks in daily driving. The solution is installing tow hooks.
Enter Hot Lap Motorsports – Kyle (KingKyle) Website: http://www.hotlapmotorsports.com/ Phone number: 973-997-9016.
Hot Lap Motorsports Tow Hooks
Specs:
Stainless steel construction, 7in by 3.5in by 1/4in thick. Cost: $35.00 ea.
http://www.hotlapmotorsports.com/pro...9&idproduct=31
Installation
For the front you are limited where you can install a tow hook. I choose to utilize the front crash beam and slots in the bumper to make the install smooth as possible. I taped off the width of the hook and put the bumper back on to be sure. (Note: I already assume you know how to take off the front bumper to do this).
Note the two factory holes that are already in the crash beam here. They do not go all the way through, but they are in a perfect location to start off. I also measured a hole between these to holes. Adding anther bolt will help spread the load and will help limit the probability of sheering a bolt off when towing. Ex. 3 bolts spreading 3000lbs = 1000 per bolt v. 2 bolts spreading 3000lbs = 1500 per bolt. 3 bolts it is.
Using a 3/8” bit drill down through these three locations – remember to take your time, and not to overheat your bit, the metal, or drill – the bit will last longer, and well those metal shavings can get really hot. For those who have been burned already by a hot shaving – you know what I mean.
Now you have 3 holes – clean off the shavings and get the tow hook (if you wish spray on some paint into the holes for some rust protection). Either have a buddy hold the hook for you or use a small clamp to hold the hook in place. Use a marker and mark off the locations of the hole on the plate – be sure it’s exact, so everything will bolt correctly. I like to drill one hole at a time, and then go back to the car and double check each location to make sure I have it right. Better to do it once right, than again later.
Once you are happy you have the holes where they should be – here is an optional step – paint. This is stainless; you don’t have to paint it. But to make it look factory, I painted it. For the paint, I used VHT 900 black, mainly because this was the only black paint I had, but it is a durable paint and has a nice shine that matches my cars paint (TB).
For the bolts I went to my local hardware store and got 3 - Grade 8 3/8” Bolts, 1.5” long, course thread, matching Grade 8 Nuts, Grade 8 Washers, and Grade 8 Lock-Washers. Do not skimp here, you do not want to use low grade bolts – they will just sheer off.
I used the standard washer between the top of the bolt and top of the crash beam, and the lock-washer between the nut and the bottom of the crash beam. Tighten these tight, but not too tight – there will be some defection in the crash beam metal as you tighten them down. I do not see a big issue with this. Basically, I tighten as tight as I could with a hand wrench.
Now comes time to put your bumper back on. Remember you will have to trim some of the mesh out of the way. This mainly is trial and error until you have it right. Be careful to not scratch up your fenders or headlights when moving the bumper on and off to get it right. I used a hand sniper to cut the meshing out of the way. Once done – you may have to go back with some paint to get any scratches in the hook.
Time for the bumper to go back on, here are the results:
Wrap Up
I am no small guy (5’ 10”, 235 lbs of hockey playing meanness), to test it out I stood on this hook and nothing happened, nothing broke, nothing bent.
Overall I’d say this is 3.5 out of 10 for the home mechanic to do. Most of the labor is in bumper removal. As long as you have the correct tools and a good drill bit this is a very doable job.
---
So for those in need of a front tow hook look no further – contact Kyle at Hot Lap Motorsports today!
Kyle (KingKyle) Website: http://www.hotlapmotorsports.com/ Phone number: 973-997-9016
Happy Racing,
MG (SmikeEvo)
PS – Rear tow hook installation in the works! Check back soon for installation and write up!
For those who have the motorsport addiction, we take our street driven (or previously street driven) cars out on race tracks and push them in the quest for low lap times and that ear-to-ear grin on the track. So what happens when that grin gets the best of you and you find yourself beyond your personal limits or your cars? Answer, you in up in the kitty litter, the thick stuff, mean green…well you get the point – you are now going to get towed out of it, whether you want to or not.
Directly quoted from the NASA rulebook –
11.4.20 Tow Eyes
It is STRONGLY recommended that all vehicles have at least two (2) easily accessible (and usable) tow eyes; one (1) in front and one (1) in back. They must not protrude dangerously from the car, and they must be accessible without manipulation of the bodywork and/or panels. They should be strong enough to support the weight of the car.
If no tow eyes are available, the towing crew will hook onto other things that may cause damage to the driver’s car. The towing crew will not be held liable for that damage. Again, tow eyes are STRONGLY recommended. The tow crew will attempt to avoid damaging the participant’s vehicle. However, should damage occur in the course of towing, or preparing to tow, NASA and/ or the tow crew will not be held responsible for any damages.
It is STRONGLY recommended that all vehicles have at least two (2) easily accessible (and usable) tow eyes; one (1) in front and one (1) in back. They must not protrude dangerously from the car, and they must be accessible without manipulation of the bodywork and/or panels. They should be strong enough to support the weight of the car.
If no tow eyes are available, the towing crew will hook onto other things that may cause damage to the driver’s car. The towing crew will not be held liable for that damage. Again, tow eyes are STRONGLY recommended. The tow crew will attempt to avoid damaging the participant’s vehicle. However, should damage occur in the course of towing, or preparing to tow, NASA and/ or the tow crew will not be held responsible for any damages.
Now, I have not found myself in outside of where the tarmac ends and the grass starts, maybe a wheel here and there, but not all four. Not saying I am great (in fact, I still say I am very much a novice in this arena), just a bit of luck, and some driving. Not that I want to end up in the greater outdoors, mind you.
The truth is – I want to be well prepared if I ever end up in that situation. Mitsubishi did a good job with these cars, but reasonably, they never would expect the average owner to need tow hooks in daily driving. The solution is installing tow hooks.
Enter Hot Lap Motorsports – Kyle (KingKyle) Website: http://www.hotlapmotorsports.com/ Phone number: 973-997-9016.
Hot Lap Motorsports Tow Hooks
Specs:
Stainless steel construction, 7in by 3.5in by 1/4in thick. Cost: $35.00 ea.
http://www.hotlapmotorsports.com/pro...9&idproduct=31
Installation
For the front you are limited where you can install a tow hook. I choose to utilize the front crash beam and slots in the bumper to make the install smooth as possible. I taped off the width of the hook and put the bumper back on to be sure. (Note: I already assume you know how to take off the front bumper to do this).
Note the two factory holes that are already in the crash beam here. They do not go all the way through, but they are in a perfect location to start off. I also measured a hole between these to holes. Adding anther bolt will help spread the load and will help limit the probability of sheering a bolt off when towing. Ex. 3 bolts spreading 3000lbs = 1000 per bolt v. 2 bolts spreading 3000lbs = 1500 per bolt. 3 bolts it is.
Using a 3/8” bit drill down through these three locations – remember to take your time, and not to overheat your bit, the metal, or drill – the bit will last longer, and well those metal shavings can get really hot. For those who have been burned already by a hot shaving – you know what I mean.
Now you have 3 holes – clean off the shavings and get the tow hook (if you wish spray on some paint into the holes for some rust protection). Either have a buddy hold the hook for you or use a small clamp to hold the hook in place. Use a marker and mark off the locations of the hole on the plate – be sure it’s exact, so everything will bolt correctly. I like to drill one hole at a time, and then go back to the car and double check each location to make sure I have it right. Better to do it once right, than again later.
Once you are happy you have the holes where they should be – here is an optional step – paint. This is stainless; you don’t have to paint it. But to make it look factory, I painted it. For the paint, I used VHT 900 black, mainly because this was the only black paint I had, but it is a durable paint and has a nice shine that matches my cars paint (TB).
For the bolts I went to my local hardware store and got 3 - Grade 8 3/8” Bolts, 1.5” long, course thread, matching Grade 8 Nuts, Grade 8 Washers, and Grade 8 Lock-Washers. Do not skimp here, you do not want to use low grade bolts – they will just sheer off.
I used the standard washer between the top of the bolt and top of the crash beam, and the lock-washer between the nut and the bottom of the crash beam. Tighten these tight, but not too tight – there will be some defection in the crash beam metal as you tighten them down. I do not see a big issue with this. Basically, I tighten as tight as I could with a hand wrench.
Now comes time to put your bumper back on. Remember you will have to trim some of the mesh out of the way. This mainly is trial and error until you have it right. Be careful to not scratch up your fenders or headlights when moving the bumper on and off to get it right. I used a hand sniper to cut the meshing out of the way. Once done – you may have to go back with some paint to get any scratches in the hook.
Time for the bumper to go back on, here are the results:
Wrap Up
I am no small guy (5’ 10”, 235 lbs of hockey playing meanness), to test it out I stood on this hook and nothing happened, nothing broke, nothing bent.
Overall I’d say this is 3.5 out of 10 for the home mechanic to do. Most of the labor is in bumper removal. As long as you have the correct tools and a good drill bit this is a very doable job.
---
So for those in need of a front tow hook look no further – contact Kyle at Hot Lap Motorsports today!
Kyle (KingKyle) Website: http://www.hotlapmotorsports.com/ Phone number: 973-997-9016
Happy Racing,
MG (SmikeEvo)
PS – Rear tow hook installation in the works! Check back soon for installation and write up!
Last edited by Smike; Dec 24, 2006 at 10:40 AM.
Dec 24, 2006, 10:39 AM
#3
Oh yeah..............Last photo..............
"Wrap Up I am no small guy (5’ 10”, 235 lbs of hockey playing meanness), to test it out I stood on this hook and nothing happened, nothing broke, nothing bent."
Hockey Players DO NOT WEAR sissy slippers!!!!:lol:
"Wrap Up I am no small guy (5’ 10”, 235 lbs of hockey playing meanness), to test it out I stood on this hook and nothing happened, nothing broke, nothing bent."
Hockey Players DO NOT WEAR sissy slippers!!!!:lol:
Dec 24, 2006, 07:29 PM
#5
hopefully nobody will give you crap on that one, because it's a grey area.
but most places say a tow hook cannot extend beyond front bumper. IE: if you clip somebody, you're not hitting them with your hook, you're hitting them with your bumper.
"must not prodrude dangerously" is pretty vauge though.
Good install, i'd thought about it before, but didnt do it. Think i'll do a looped nylon or cable through that beam the next time the bumper is off though.
good work.
but most places say a tow hook cannot extend beyond front bumper. IE: if you clip somebody, you're not hitting them with your hook, you're hitting them with your bumper.
"must not prodrude dangerously" is pretty vauge though.
Good install, i'd thought about it before, but didnt do it. Think i'll do a looped nylon or cable through that beam the next time the bumper is off though.
good work.
Dec 25, 2006, 08:06 AM
#6
Thanks.
And I agree, I read the ruling the same way. Im going to send an email to the Midwest NASA Director, Dave Royce, and the Chief of Safety. See if I can get more explaination of the rule in this context (edit: email sent).
SCCAs rules are just as grey -
And I agree, I read the ruling the same way. Im going to send an email to the Midwest NASA Director, Dave Royce, and the Chief of Safety. See if I can get more explaination of the rule in this context (edit: email sent).
SCCAs rules are just as grey -
9.3.46. TOWING EYES
All cars without an exposed roll bar shall have a towing eye or strap, front and rear that does not dangerously protrude from the bodywork
when the car is racing, to be used for flat-towing or hauling the vehicle.
A removable towing eye carried inside the car is not acceptable, except
in formula cars and sports racers. These towing eyes or straps shall be
easily accessible without removal or manipulation of bodywork or other
panels. Towing eye minimum ID two (2) inches.
The required tow eyes must be strong enough to tow the car from a
hazard such as a gravel trap. Front tow eye may be mounted in the
driver / passenger side window openings, or any location forward of the
windshield. If mounted in the driver/passenger side window openings, it
must be attached to the forward roll cage down tube as close to the base
of the windshield as possible. If the front tow eye is located in the side
window openings there shall be one on each side of the car. Rear tow
eyes must be accessible rearward of the rear axle centerline.
All cars without an exposed roll bar shall have a towing eye or strap, front and rear that does not dangerously protrude from the bodywork
when the car is racing, to be used for flat-towing or hauling the vehicle.
A removable towing eye carried inside the car is not acceptable, except
in formula cars and sports racers. These towing eyes or straps shall be
easily accessible without removal or manipulation of bodywork or other
panels. Towing eye minimum ID two (2) inches.
The required tow eyes must be strong enough to tow the car from a
hazard such as a gravel trap. Front tow eye may be mounted in the
driver / passenger side window openings, or any location forward of the
windshield. If mounted in the driver/passenger side window openings, it
must be attached to the forward roll cage down tube as close to the base
of the windshield as possible. If the front tow eye is located in the side
window openings there shall be one on each side of the car. Rear tow
eyes must be accessible rearward of the rear axle centerline.
Last edited by Smike; Dec 25, 2006 at 08:35 AM.
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Dec 25, 2006, 12:30 PM
#8
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Attached are what Marty and my tow hooks look like. As you know these cars competed this past season with SCCA both Regional and National, in Marty's case at the National Championships. Nobody has ever said anything about the tow hook configuration on these cars.
Actually, Marty found out why this rule exists, during the runoffs a 350Z with the oem screw in tow hook sticking out of the front bumper skewered his rear bumper cover while giving him a little love tap. I imagine it will never be an issue until someone complains about it...as in most cases with SCCA/NASA.
Actually, Marty found out why this rule exists, during the runoffs a 350Z with the oem screw in tow hook sticking out of the front bumper skewered his rear bumper cover while giving him a little love tap. I imagine it will never be an issue until someone complains about it...as in most cases with SCCA/NASA.
Dec 25, 2006, 12:51 PM
#9
I can't see the legality mattering too much for just HPDE events. That design certainly looks nice and inexpensive and easy to install, though if that were my car I think I'd probably collect a bruise on my leg about every other week walking into it in the garage.
Dec 29, 2006, 06:02 AM
#10
From Dave Royce (NASA Midwest Dir.):
At first glance these seem to be acceptable. Your hooks should be fine, but I’m copying Shane Benson, our Chief Scrutinizer in case he has other solutions.
From Shane Benson:
This style of tow hook is fairly common. Without seeing the car in person, I can't advise as to another solution; however I don't have an issue with it as it is. You might consider painting it bright orange to save some shins =)
At first glance these seem to be acceptable. Your hooks should be fine, but I’m copying Shane Benson, our Chief Scrutinizer in case he has other solutions.
From Shane Benson:
This style of tow hook is fairly common. Without seeing the car in person, I can't advise as to another solution; however I don't have an issue with it as it is. You might consider painting it bright orange to save some shins =)
Mar 26, 2010, 10:22 AM
#15
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Specs:
Stainless steel construction, 7in by 3.5in by 1/4in thick. Cost: $35.00 ea.
http://www.hotlapmotorsports.com/pro...9&idproduct=31
Stainless steel construction, 7in by 3.5in by 1/4in thick. Cost: $35.00 ea.
http://www.hotlapmotorsports.com/pro...9&idproduct=31
