Brake Pads
Feb 4, 2007, 11:21 AM
#46
Just don't slam the car too far, thats the biggest issue. I use all of the car, and lay it over, and that causes clearance issues you wouldn't see on the street, or at an auto-x.
Feb 5, 2007, 07:01 PM
#47
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Those Hawk pads really are not track pads, they are pretty much just for street. Oh, Im sure someone on here will argue with me here, but a good track/street pad (v. a street pad used on the track) will give you much better braking.
My GS5s -- friction coefficient ~0.49 and temp of 100 – 850°F -- (or DS2500s) worked really well for me at the track. And I still drive on the street with them, sure they make some more noise when cold, but once I have some heat in them they work great.
http://www.satisfiedbrakes.com/motorsports/index.html#
Otherwise, you are looking to more track only, limited street use pads.
My GS5s -- friction coefficient ~0.49 and temp of 100 – 850°F -- (or DS2500s) worked really well for me at the track. And I still drive on the street with them, sure they make some more noise when cold, but once I have some heat in them they work great.
http://www.satisfiedbrakes.com/motorsports/index.html#
Otherwise, you are looking to more track only, limited street use pads.
I was doing a search on brake pads. I am looking for a pad for the track, yet something that I can still use for daily driving. I'll be tracking it about once a month starting this upcoming spring (actually I'll be at Waterford Hills too
). I was wondering how long those GS5s lasted you before they needed to be replaced. Also, how did they work on the track. Thanks in advance!!
Feb 6, 2007, 03:00 AM
#48
really, i'd look into a real pad. If you end up with track tires at all, pad switching is under 5 minutes a corner. If not, you'll be squeaking on the street, and be giving up a good amount at the track.
Most people try the dual approach, then after killing a set, go to a track set.
Most people try the dual approach, then after killing a set, go to a track set.
Feb 6, 2007, 07:08 AM
#49
really, i'd look into a real pad. If you end up with track tires at all, pad switching is under 5 minutes a corner. If not, you'll be squeaking on the street, and be giving up a good amount at the track.
Most people try the dual approach, then after killing a set, go to a track set.
Most people try the dual approach, then after killing a set, go to a track set.
You will end up saving in the long run if you run a street set and a track set. Make sure you do not overlook the rears either (although I would run like an HP+ in the rear since they are street friendly and dont see as much abuse on the track). I ran my stock rears one day at the track and they were all squeaky on the street afterwards.
Just before you go to the track for the first time, do a pad swap in your garage and make sure you have all the correct tools, the proper sized punch and whatnot, it will make the job easier and less stressful at the track.
Last edited by eficker; Feb 6, 2007 at 07:10 AM.
Feb 6, 2007, 09:22 AM
#50
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Guys,
It's difficult to give objective Data to another driver about pad life and usage. I have also used the DT60 and 70's that Marksae uses, and I think they are great pads for modulation and feel, as well as grip. But, I only get 8 20 minute sessions out of a set at thunderhill, a total of about 200 on track miles. This is on 275 hoosiers or Nittos, 290 WHP/265 torque, car weighs about 3250 with me and fuel. I brake very hard, and have no cooling ducts. I think the main thing to add for improved pad life once your driving is at a certain level is brake ducting, which I will be adding in the next few weeks. I have also used carbotech XP12's, and I like them better than the Hawk pads, because feel on the limit is more predictable, and the release characteristics are a bit better...you can squeeze on the brakes VERY hard and just get right back out of them and on the throttle(not to mention the carbotech pads are about 100.00 less per set than the Hawks), this is especially useful when using hoosiers or Kuhmos that feel much more vague on the limit than RA-1's, etc.
It's difficult to give objective Data to another driver about pad life and usage. I have also used the DT60 and 70's that Marksae uses, and I think they are great pads for modulation and feel, as well as grip. But, I only get 8 20 minute sessions out of a set at thunderhill, a total of about 200 on track miles. This is on 275 hoosiers or Nittos, 290 WHP/265 torque, car weighs about 3250 with me and fuel. I brake very hard, and have no cooling ducts. I think the main thing to add for improved pad life once your driving is at a certain level is brake ducting, which I will be adding in the next few weeks. I have also used carbotech XP12's, and I like them better than the Hawk pads, because feel on the limit is more predictable, and the release characteristics are a bit better...you can squeeze on the brakes VERY hard and just get right back out of them and on the throttle(not to mention the carbotech pads are about 100.00 less per set than the Hawks), this is especially useful when using hoosiers or Kuhmos that feel much more vague on the limit than RA-1's, etc.
Feb 7, 2007, 08:08 AM
#51
Guys,
It's difficult to give objective Data to another driver about pad life and usage. I have also used the DT60 and 70's that Marksae uses, and I think they are great pads for modulation and feel, as well as grip. But, I only get 8 20 minute sessions out of a set at thunderhill, a total of about 200 on track miles. This is on 275 hoosiers or Nittos, 290 WHP/265 torque, car weighs about 3250 with me and fuel. I brake very hard, and have no cooling ducts. I think the main thing to add for improved pad life once your driving is at a certain level is brake ducting, which I will be adding in the next few weeks. I have also used carbotech XP12's, and I like them better than the Hawk pads, because feel on the limit is more predictable, and the release characteristics are a bit better...you can squeeze on the brakes VERY hard and just get right back out of them and on the throttle(not to mention the carbotech pads are about 100.00 less per set than the Hawks), this is especially useful when using hoosiers or Kuhmos that feel much more vague on the limit than RA-1's, etc.
It's difficult to give objective Data to another driver about pad life and usage. I have also used the DT60 and 70's that Marksae uses, and I think they are great pads for modulation and feel, as well as grip. But, I only get 8 20 minute sessions out of a set at thunderhill, a total of about 200 on track miles. This is on 275 hoosiers or Nittos, 290 WHP/265 torque, car weighs about 3250 with me and fuel. I brake very hard, and have no cooling ducts. I think the main thing to add for improved pad life once your driving is at a certain level is brake ducting, which I will be adding in the next few weeks. I have also used carbotech XP12's, and I like them better than the Hawk pads, because feel on the limit is more predictable, and the release characteristics are a bit better...you can squeeze on the brakes VERY hard and just get right back out of them and on the throttle(not to mention the carbotech pads are about 100.00 less per set than the Hawks), this is especially useful when using hoosiers or Kuhmos that feel much more vague on the limit than RA-1's, etc.
I agree about the RA-1's. Its like driving with a GPS for the limit, you always know where you're at. I just wish they would grip better with the same feedback.
Feb 7, 2007, 12:47 PM
#54
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I would add that in race pads the type of car seems to give a 'favorite track pad' by considering three things
Vehicle weight - times power times front to rear balance = how much pad to get.
For example Miatas are light - lowish power and perfectly balanced - They use Hawk Blues or similar on track
Spec E30's are middle of the road in all three - they like HT-10's ro similar
EVO/STi/Vettes - give me all the pad I can get and I'll still want more.
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