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Burnt up my Brembos in one session.

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Old Mar 21, 2007, 09:37 AM
  #61  
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Can you post a pic of the calipers and rotors as they are now? I would like to see how bad they got.
Old Mar 21, 2007, 09:50 AM
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I would if I could, but I can't find the memory card to my camera. If I can't find it soon, I will have to buy a new one and I will post some pics.
Old Mar 21, 2007, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by SinCityVIIIMR
Cooling ducts theoretically can help as much as changing to a BBK if the cooling is that much more improved.

so many people dont realize that.
Old Mar 21, 2007, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ryan0
like i said.. cooling is the best upgrade you can make on a decent braking system.

if you think stock pads and rotors dont get hot in 20 minutes on track youre nuts.. and more importantly its the sustained temp.. with out ducts the system doesnt have time to cool between corners..

all systems will stop you just fine once or twice.. but on the 10th time, a good, cool system will work just as well as the 1st time.. while a stock system wont.

brakes work by friction -> heat.. if theres too much heat.. no friction.. and no stop.
Never said anything about stock pads, they are crap for track use but stock rotors work for most people. Heat is not always a bad thing true race pads need a certain amount of heat to work properly. SinCity said he never had any fade. Sound to hot to you? His problem was from pad material being laid down unevenly on the rotors or removed from easy or light use nothing more nothing less. Brownbos will turn brown when used on track, fact of life, but they still work great. Good fluid good pads when you wear out the stock rotors then get the after market ones they try to sell you on this board. I’ve had several instructors with racing experience drive my car with stock rotors for 20 minute sessions and were impressed with braking that rivaled there big brake kits from Stoptech costing thousands of dollars.
Old Mar 21, 2007, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by cfdfireman1
I’ve had several instructors with racing experience drive my car with stock rotors for 20 minute sessions.
welp you sound like you know it all and have everything covered.
Old Mar 21, 2007, 01:08 PM
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I'm pointing my finger at the pads. I've tried both Ferodo compounds on the track and have got bad pad transfer every single time. So bad I had to quit for the day.

The DS2500's are not up for the job and the DS3000's have some bad characteristics. After several different sets of DS3000's I gave up and moved on. 992gnt had the same problem (sorry Greg, I really did think it was just my braking technique).

As far as black calipers...don't worry about it. I've boiled Motul 600, faded Hawk blues and melted Toyo RA1's, but mine have never turned more than a dark red/brown all while on a 110F day with 90% humidity. I think it has something to do with the paint.

1) Try a new pad compound
2) Cooling never hurts
3) stock rotors rock
Old Mar 21, 2007, 01:13 PM
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I agree that its the pads. I am suprised that you have problems with the DS3000s though. I have those on the front of my Time Attack 350Z and love them. I think I should be fine with the AMS cooling ducts, some different pads, and some different suspension that wont transfer so much weight to the front.

mayhem - what pads do you use now?
Old Mar 21, 2007, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by SinCityVIIIMR
I agree that its the pads. I am suprised that you have problems with the DS3000s though. I have those on the front of my Time Attack 350Z and love them. I think I should be fine with the AMS cooling ducts, some different pads, and some different suspension that wont transfer so much weight to the front.

mayhem - what pads do you use now?
I used Hawk Blues very succesfully for 2 years. Cheap too. I was going to step up to the more expensive Hawks like the DTC and HT's, but I decided to sell the Evo instead.

BTW, the 2500's made great street pads. The rarely squeel and when they do it's the rears. They could use more cold bite as far as a street pad goes.

To add, I only had pad transfer problems with the Ferodos while on the track with the fronts. I've used 3000s and 2500s on the rear with no problems.
Old Mar 21, 2007, 01:29 PM
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proper bedding usually cures transfer problems..

but what do i know.. i think cooling is important too.
Old Mar 21, 2007, 01:31 PM
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mayhem and I had pretty much identical results with the Ferodo's. I really like them for a street pad, although I'm running Hawk HP+ right now (street only!). On the track I'm using the PFC-01's now. They are a bit hard on the rotors, but OMG do they stop the car.
Old Mar 21, 2007, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ryan0
proper bedding usually cures transfer problems..

but what do i know.. i think cooling is important too.
Been there done that, did not help at all with the Ferodo's.
Old Mar 21, 2007, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 992gnt
Been there done that, did not help at all with the Ferodo's.
hrmm.. ill let you know.. mine go on in a few weeks.
Old Mar 21, 2007, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 992gnt
Been there done that, did not help at all with the Ferodo's.
Ditto. I was all over the bedding in techniques. I even used a dedicated set of rotors for my track pads to no avail.
Old Mar 21, 2007, 03:41 PM
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i'm not a fan of the ferodos. i've tried the 3000/2500 combination and wasn't that impressed. i preferred the PF compounds over the ferodos and HAWK 70/60 combination the most.
Old Mar 21, 2007, 03:48 PM
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to be more specific, i had brand new ferodo 3000s on the front with 1/2 used pf 2pc rotors. i bed them in on the track at laguna and completely disentegrated the front pads and the rest of the rotors on the front in one day (granted i was overbraking that weekend, so take it with a grain of salt). i, however, have had no similar problems with pf or hawk compounds. i used 1/2 used pf 97 compounds on the front with stock rotors and didnt have any problems the second day, other than still over braking


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