Burnt up my Brembos in one session.
I was hoping they would hold up to a track day with a relatively stock car and some brake cooling. Argh, I hate changing pads, I'm a lazy bastard 
Mar 21, 2007, 10:36 PM
#78
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Well, after the cooling I will give the 2500s another shot at least before I go and buy another set of new pads. Thanks for the tips though fellas.
Mar 26, 2007, 10:26 AM
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Its the pads. Ferodos are not up to the task of stopping a FAST, HEAVY car like an evo. Hawk blues don't do it either, with only 1000deg heat tolerance.
The Goodsport and WORKS race cars have been pushing 400+ hp (300hp for more than 10 laps of wheel to wheel racing, 400hp for time-attack, short session) through stock front calipers with nothing more than the usual blackening and perhaps a little fire
!
When driven at full clip, even a stock evo needs the 1600 temperature rating of a full race pad like the Hawk DTCs at tracks like thunderhill and laguna. The Ferodo pads are likely exceeding their temperature rating, and then leaving deposits on the rotor. BTW, I've never seen a set of evo rotors warp until they are thinner than the factory recommended thickness.
The best track/street pad I've found so far is the new Racing Brake E700 compound rated for 1400deg. We've been using them for street and race for a few months now, and they work as advertised...NO noise, low rotor wear, and high temp capability. These pads will run all day on a lighter car, but the EVO is hard on brakes, and even a close-to-stock evo can push pad temps beyond 1400 when really hustling, hence the need for DTC60s for tracks that are hard on brakes. I used the E700s with no problems at Sears Point and Thunderhill, but a track like Laguna starts to push the limit. I've used all the claimed 'street/track' pads, and the Racing Brake E700 is by far the most streatable of all the 'dual purpose' pads, and comes very close to being race ready even for evos and corvettes.
Here's our 'mild' formula for brakes that can withstand 300+whp for continuous racing, 400hp for time-attack or short run, at any track including Miller in UT and Laguna Seca:
front:
stock calipers
Hawk DTC 60 pads
1 3" cooling duct to each rotor
Racing Brake floating rotors
Motul Fluid
rear:
WORKS 4 piston caliper upgrade
Hawk DTC60 pads
Racing Brake floating rotors
The Goodsport and WORKS race cars have been pushing 400+ hp (300hp for more than 10 laps of wheel to wheel racing, 400hp for time-attack, short session) through stock front calipers with nothing more than the usual blackening and perhaps a little fire
!When driven at full clip, even a stock evo needs the 1600 temperature rating of a full race pad like the Hawk DTCs at tracks like thunderhill and laguna. The Ferodo pads are likely exceeding their temperature rating, and then leaving deposits on the rotor. BTW, I've never seen a set of evo rotors warp until they are thinner than the factory recommended thickness.
The best track/street pad I've found so far is the new Racing Brake E700 compound rated for 1400deg. We've been using them for street and race for a few months now, and they work as advertised...NO noise, low rotor wear, and high temp capability. These pads will run all day on a lighter car, but the EVO is hard on brakes, and even a close-to-stock evo can push pad temps beyond 1400 when really hustling, hence the need for DTC60s for tracks that are hard on brakes. I used the E700s with no problems at Sears Point and Thunderhill, but a track like Laguna starts to push the limit. I've used all the claimed 'street/track' pads, and the Racing Brake E700 is by far the most streatable of all the 'dual purpose' pads, and comes very close to being race ready even for evos and corvettes.
Here's our 'mild' formula for brakes that can withstand 300+whp for continuous racing, 400hp for time-attack or short run, at any track including Miller in UT and Laguna Seca:
front:
stock calipers
Hawk DTC 60 pads
1 3" cooling duct to each rotor
Racing Brake floating rotors
Motul Fluid
rear:
WORKS 4 piston caliper upgrade
Hawk DTC60 pads
Racing Brake floating rotors
Mar 26, 2007, 03:29 PM
#82
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This last weekend at PIR I used the following brake setup and it worked great compared to a track day last year with a stock setup 
PF two piece rotors
Pagid Blue pads
Forge ducting
SS lines
Motul 600
It took a little while for the pads to warm up but after each lap I could decrease my stopping distance on the front and back straights. I also use these pads on the street and they don't make too much noise.
PF two piece rotors
Pagid Blue pads
Forge ducting
SS lines
Motul 600
It took a little while for the pads to warm up but after each lap I could decrease my stopping distance on the front and back straights. I also use these pads on the street and they don't make too much noise.
Sep 12, 2007, 07:06 AM
#83
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burnt my brake's in one track session
I don't know how you drive, but I have 7 track days on my Hawk HPS and they still have enough meat for a few more autocrosses and at least one track day. I turn mid 1.05's at LRP.
Sep 12, 2007, 09:42 AM
#85
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I have slightly worn rotors, and am wondering about bedding new pads, should I choose to swap pads back and forth. Will the wear on the rotors mess up the new pad?
Sep 12, 2007, 10:09 AM
#86
I use HPS at the moment too, and haevea set fo HP+ in the mail. i'm hoping they'll be a decent "all purpose" pad, given that I am not a hot-shoe like most of you guys here (my calipers are still somewhat red)...
I have slightly worn rotors, and am wondering about bedding n ew pads, should I choose to swap pads back and forth. Will the wear on the rotors mess up the new pad?
I have slightly worn rotors, and am wondering about bedding n ew pads, should I choose to swap pads back and forth. Will the wear on the rotors mess up the new pad?
However, they do have decent cold stopping power.
Sep 12, 2007, 12:16 PM
#87
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After a few hundred miles of dragging the brakes the HP+'s "should" smooth out over time. Be warned though, in my personal experience, the HP+'s are louder then most of the race-only pads i've tried, and not just at x speed/pedal pressure, i mean all the damn time. Also I had a full set on a 2000 vw gti vr6, which is around 3k pounds as well, but slow. I glazed the hp+'s before mid-day.
However, they do have decent cold stopping power.
However, they do have decent cold stopping power.
Mar 4, 2008, 01:47 PM
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Newbie here to this forum -
Try what I did - Pagid RS29 brake pads
Toughest damn pads you will ever use.
Got 'em from last fall from www.Rennstore.com - EXCELLENT PRICES
High friction, easy on the rotors, and the identical compound used by all podium guys inthe 24 hrs of Daytona.
I have never used anything this good --- and they last a looong time - !
(Tons of cooling helped too, under the front arms, directed cooling to the rotors - homemade ABS plastic - a copy of the Porsche GT3 deflectors)
Try what I did - Pagid RS29 brake pads
Toughest damn pads you will ever use.
Got 'em from last fall from www.Rennstore.com - EXCELLENT PRICES
High friction, easy on the rotors, and the identical compound used by all podium guys inthe 24 hrs of Daytona.
I have never used anything this good --- and they last a looong time - !
(Tons of cooling helped too, under the front arms, directed cooling to the rotors - homemade ABS plastic - a copy of the Porsche GT3 deflectors)