SinCityVIIIMR

iTrader: (1)

I know there are a lot of guys out there (Nils) running the factory Brembos and hauling *** on the track. How do you do it? I took the evo out for its first track day this past weekend and after one session the front calipers were black. After one day they were even darker and the StopTech slotted rotors were warped. The rears were pretty good, they only got a little bit darker, but the fronts are screwed. That being said, they never got mushy or boiled the fluid but it was aparent that the heat disipation is just not there. My evo is nothing special either, in fact, its got disadvantages compared to a stock evo. The only performance parts I have are an Injen CAI and HKS Cat-Back exhaust with no tune. I beefed up the brakes with StopTech slotted rotors, StopTech braided brake lines, Motul RBF600 fluid, and Ferodo DS2500 pads. The car is a 2005 EVO VIII MR and the tires were the worst part. I was running Kumho ECSTA ASX All Season radials in 235/45/17 with a treadwear of 420, yes I said 420. As most of you should know, most of your braking force is done by the tires, and I was using the braking limit for these tires, but hell, thats not much at all. I don't even want to think of what my Brembos would have looked like with a wider 140 treadwear street tire, let alone a 40 treadwear big sticky Hoosier. So what gives? How is it that everybody else can run competitively on their stock Brembos? Oh, and the track, Spring Mountain Motorsports Ranch 3.1 Mile Config, is not exeptionally hard on brakes. If I can find my camera, I will snap some pics today when I take the front brakes apart.

Barfly30

iTrader: (1)

It may be your braking technique. I used to ease into the braking zone, something like 4-7-8-9-0 (with 10 being max pedal pressure). My front calipers were black and my rears were brown. I would frequently boil my fluid or have smoke rolling off the rotors even after a cooldown lap. It's hard to get rid of the street driving technique as we are so used to easing up to a stoplight with light brake pressure followed by more and more firm pressure until we need to stop. After the last several months of karting and taking the Skip Barber course, I have now learned to maximize pressure early, something like 9-10-10-7-4-0. It's better to get on early and trail off instead of the other way around.

Hope this helps.

SinCityVIIIMR

iTrader: (1)

Nope. I love late braking and trail braking. Wouldn't do it any other way. In fact, thats one of the main reasons I was catching people at the track this past weekend. Thats a fantastic technique to know though. How long have you been doing track stuff?

Barfly30

iTrader: (1)

About 9 months.

There are several brake duct kits on the market. Mueller also fabricates kits for the VIII and IX for a reasonable price. I am no longer experiencing overheating issues, but may get the kit if I end up converting my car to full race prep and have to endure longer sessions.

nils

iTrader: (56)

that sounds weird.....

do oyu have the OEM mitsu air ducts? or nothing at all?

I was at about 3-4 track events before I put my real ducts on the car and nothing like you described happened....

tvbf1

iTrader: (1)

It's just my guess, but maybe it's because of the tire. Like you said, you use all season tire with a wear rate of 420 which mean the compound is harder and allows less tracking. Because of that you're forced to stay on the brakes for a longer period of time. If you use a softer compound then you'll slow down sooner and spend less time on the brake.

992gnt

iTrader: (5)

That does seem pretty odd, especially on DS2500's.

SinCityVIIIMR

iTrader: (1)

Nice. I have been debating with myself with weather or not to go with an aftermarket front duct kit or just go with a BBK. I am not 100% convinced that a front duct kit will provide enough cooling if I go to a track that really is hard on the brakes.

SinCityVIIIMR

iTrader: (1)

It is wierd. Totally unexpected for me. I do have the factory air guides that come with the VIII MR front undertray, but thats it. You more than anybody, can vouch that SMMR is not too hard on brakes. There are a few hard braking zones, but there is plenty of space inbetween them for cooling.

SinCityVIIIMR

iTrader: (1)

I like where you are going with this and you are correct, but also consider this. Because of the lack of grip in the tire, my corner and corner exit speeds are lower than what they would be on a stickier tire. That means my speeds when entering braking zones is also lower and it takes less braking to slow the car back down. So its all pretty relative. I was going 110mph at the end of the fast straights, and that is not fast. To give you a perspective, in my 350Z when it was stock and I was far less experienced I was hitting 115mph in the same places, and thats a slower car. That is all due to corner exit speed which is directly related to the tires.

nils

iTrader: (56)

yeah, pahrump is not that hard on brakes....

n

DaWorstPlaya

iTrader: (31)

+1 ... that is exactly what I was thinking. Trailbraking is a killer on the brakes, mine didn't start to turn purple/brown until I started heavily trailbraking, I think it has more to do with how long one stays on the brakes .... Also the stock EVO8 MR doesn't come with brake cooling guides, it is an extra accessory that you have to buy. It helps scoop air flowing underneath the car and redirects them to the calipers. You might want to consider some some of cooling guides/ducts.

M3this

iTrader: (19)

We missed ya out there this weekend

nils

iTrader: (56)

I was sippin on margaritas by the pool sunday

hopefully I'll be at track this sunday but who knows...

n

SinCityVIIIMR

iTrader: (1)

Well, if its not stock, then the car doesn't have it. I bought it used and I am new to the evo scene sorry for my incompetence .

As far as the trailbraking goes, it should never be dragged on for more than a second. If you are able to trail brake past initial turn in, you are entering the turn too slow. Trailbraking should only serve the purpose of smoothly trasnfering from braking traction to lateral traction while staying as close to maxium traction as possible. This should be done smoothly, but very quickly so you don't disrupt the chassis.