crystalhelix

Hi, I am an BSP STi owner, just wanted to subscribe, I am all over the place on the Roll Center topic, over on Nasioc as well, I have learned a lot this winter with regards to how difficult it is to tweek the perfect setup. Looking forward to contributing if I can.

kekek

iTrader: (22)

Just an FYI to anyone running in BSP. If you were thinking about doing the Whiteline Steering Precision Kit it's not SP legal. It basically raises the rack approx 1/8". Too bad nobody really mentions the fact that it alters rack placement.

Anyone want a brand new Steering precision kit? $60 shipped.

GTLocke13

iTrader: (1)

You should probably try the SM thread...

crystalhelix

LOL!

Matt2.8NJ

iTrader: (7)

Going in a bit of a different direction... I believe the Evo X will end up in BSP. I'm looking forward to seeing how much weight the porker can drop in BSP/SM trim.

I'm looking forward to seeing how the AYC + new gizmos will react to sticky tires and an a tight course.

I took a couple of snapshots at the Philly Auto Show of the undercarriage of the Evo X. It looks to me like a lot (75+ lbs IMO) will be able do be dropped from just an exhaust. I think 200lbs of total weight loss will be reasonable in BSP trim... which still puts it ~200 lbs heavier than the VIII/IX...

A single-exit exhaust would help... looks like eliminating the cat would help too... plus eliminating the heat shielding.

point&shoot

iTrader: (3)

I agree, John. After all BSP-legal power mods (including 24 lb boost), I get only about 275 wheel HP on my 2003, tuned for 93 octane. My tuner says I can get another 30 HP if I tune for 109 octane race gas, but this is my daily driver and I can't afford $8-$10/gallon every day. I'm thinking of buying a 2nd ECU and tuning one for the street and the other for race gas. Has anyone tried this? I know that it only takes 10 minutes or so to swap out the ECU, so that wouldn't be a problem, but I'm worried about whether the two different ECUs will accept the same ignition key, or whether there would be other problems.

Mike

kekek

iTrader: (22)

Mike,

Out of curiosity, who is your tuner/dyno type, etc??

Easiest way to do that is using a laptop with Tactrix cable & ECUFlash. You can have as many maps as you wish. No worries about the immobilizer either. This way you can adjust parameters that day if you wish. For example I had to increase my 2-step rpm at the DC Pro last year. Without ECUflash I would have been stuck with what I had.

I guess another option is with CObb's Accessport, although I don't know much about it. I do know swapping maps is very easy.

HTH,

John

point&shoot

iTrader: (3)

The tuner is Dent Sport Garage, and they have a Dyno Dynamics. The tune is a pretty good one in terms of reaching peak power at 5500 rpm and staying almost completely flat from there on out to 7000 rpm (only drops off about 5hp at 7K). But the 275 HP is a little disappointing, considering I have a 3" turbo-back exhaust, with upgraded O2 housing, Evo 9 BOV, MBC set to 24lbs, LICP, and K&N air filter. The exhaust is a Fujitsubo, not the least restrictive one on the market (I've been told), but it's quiet, which is what I wanted.

Thanks for the tip on using the Tactrix cable + ECUFlash. I'll ask DSG if they use ECUFlash. Maybe they can just give me a second, race-gas tune, and I'll store both maps on a laptop, for easy swapping on race days. But first I'll have to buy a laptop. :-)

Mike

CDeutsch

iTrader: (5)

Any tips/info/experiences on rolling the fenders? That's definitely one of the factors holding me back from BSP. That and the price of tires versus STU.

kekek

iTrader: (22)

Use a good heat gun and take your time!

It's very possible to fit 9.5's w/285's without destroying your fenders. I was impatient and my roll sucks, a friend the same day took his time and they came out great. The fronts don't really need to be done unless your running very little camber, in which case they may not fit anyway.

point&shoot

iTrader: (3)

Agree. If you have 285-width racing rubber, you need 3.5 to 4 degrees of negative camber to counteract the roll induced by the huge amount of grip, even if you have 650 lb (12kg) springs up front. With that amount of camber, I have no trouble fitting 285 Hoosiers on 10x18 wheels up front, except that I need to use springs that are short enough not to overlap with the fattest part of the rubber (can't use 7" springs). I only had to roll the front fenders a moderate amount (maybe not at all) to fit these wheels. Of course it also depends on how much you've lowered your car. John, when I looked at your car lined up in front of mine, it's clear you're at least 1/2" lower, front and rear -- your roll center must be below ground! I assume it doesn't matter because of the super-stiff springs you run ...

EVOlutionary

iTrader: (38)

Wow, that's A LOT! Must hurt your accelleration and braking . . .

point&shoot

iTrader: (3)

When I went from stock to -2.5, I didn't notice any increase in braking distance, but when I moved to -3.5, yes braking ability seemed to be reduced slightly. But in autocross, you spend a lot more time cornering than you do braking.

As far as acceleration goes, the front camber doesn't matter at all for straight line acceleration in second gear, unless you have a lot more power than I do. And for exiting a corner, your diffs are much more important than the fact that the inside front wheel is at a non-optimal angle. The outside-front wheel, which has almost all the weight on it, is fine. If you have an Evo 8, though, like I do, you absolutely have to replace the open front diff with a good helical LSD, whether it be the Quaife or the Evo 9 OEM. Otherwise you'll lose a goodly fraction of a second out of every corner due to inside front wheelspin.

Of course, after you do that, your next problem will be inside rear wheel-spin, for which you need the TRE re-build service (see that thread). :-)

The single biggest performance problem with the Evo is being able to get all its power to the pavement on corner exit. I think I finally have that licked, but won't know for sure till the season starts.

Matt2.8NJ

iTrader: (7)

Well, I've been stuck home from work sick the last couple of days, so it gave me a chance to catch up on some car stuff.

Garage is still a work in progress... still need to put up drywall... and my winter wheels are covered in brake dust...


Decided to weigh the spacers... 5 1/8 oz. Not bad... but check the following pic:


Damn, more than a pound! Glad I got some lighter spacers.


Test fitting NTO3 18x9.5.


Fits with a 10mm, but I'd like more clearance.


Um yeah. How the F is the tire not gonna hit the spring perch? Might have to go to 6" springs or bigger spacers once the tires get mounted.

kekek

iTrader: (22)

Oddly enough, Mark and I had very similar ride heights, despite not having any conversations about it. Although he also has the adjustable arms where my geometry is all out of whack. I guess it doesn't matter too much b/c the car feels good and is performing well. I'm really at the point of not caring where the roll center or other crap is, as long as the car is fast and driveable.

As for stiffness I don't think 12k is really that stiff in the front. Mark runs a good bit more spring and a sway bar. Personally I need a little more "feel" from my car. I tried a 14k front and hated it. Maybe it has to do with the Kumho and Hoosier characteristics, I dunno.


Matt,

You need more car parts strewn around the floor and a bigger mess!