dsycks

iTrader: (10)

Well, I am starting with the vac canister. I will post impressions but I don't think I will be able to really give a good account of it until I get on track.

I will also be going over lines and making sure they are all in good condition and replacing some key lines no matter what.

RareS54

I think I am going the canister route too. the booster delete is not going to be a good idea if you have ABS. I will try and do this before my march event. If anyone finds a good vacuum canister please post a link.
I have been trying to resolve this for years now. I have just been dealing with it and accepting the flaw.

Thanks.

RareS54

This is what we need!!! canister, mounting kit and check valve. Somebody do a writeup for the mechanically challeged please!!!


http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...63083_-1_11491

Balrok

iTrader: (15)

Bump for an update. I haven't experienced the concrete pedal myself yet, but i recently got retuned and explained to my tuner about the issue of the "rev hanging." He knew right away what it was, explained it was 05's and up, which i knew, and proceeded to adjust it. Get on the street and much to my amazement that annoying issue is gone. Fast forward to last weekend while at Roebling road - it has a long straight that anyone with 350+ hp can hit 150+mph if you come out of turn nine right. Well after 2 full days of gas gas gas instantly to BRRRAKE at the 3 marker (deeper then my instructor did in his Carrera) all day without letting it "sit" for a bit. Solid feel all weekend. I'll continue to test in safe straights to see if i can get it to stick but this may be the fix for us 05 and up's.

dsycks

iTrader: (10)

Well, I did buy the Jegs kit with the one way vac check valve and will be installing it before my first outing. Sadly, no feedback to this point.

If one does look at the vac line to the master cylinder, it's huge. You can tell that they wanted to make sure this would not be an issue but facts are it is for some of us. After looking at the X and how it's set up the system is similar but its hard to tell if the issues will be the same.

Good news is that this should be rather an easy upgrade to try and I hope to be able to provide good information on it all the same.

kduncan01

iTrader: (9)

Dsycks

If you can post pictures of your install.

Thanks

RareS54

I too installed the Jegs vacuum reserve canister. The brakes work on normal streets but have not tested it at the track yet. Not until March 8,9. I hope this works. very easy install. the only hard part is finding a spot to mount it. i took out the intercooler spray resovior by the air intake and mounted it there. i had to buy longer vacuum hose. Don't forget you have to use the maintain the pill restrictor from the stock vacuum hose connecting towards the engine. i just used a connector. for now the canister is ghetto rigged and tied down with zip ties. didn't want to drill holes until i knew it really worked.

Patrick

RareS54

Did a weekend track event. All I can say is that the reserve canister did not work. Still experienced no vacuum and a stiff brake pedal at 130mph. Very disappointed. I concidering just changing out the Brake booster and master cylinder. Does anyone think this will fix it?

dsycks

iTrader: (10)

Crap. I was hopeful that this would do the trick.

Ludikraut

iTrader: (17)

Does anyone know if AMS had this issue on their TA car? Or is this only an issue if you're running the stock ECU?

l8r)

RaNGVR-4

iTrader: (4)

Im going to guess this isnt a vacuum problem. The only reason I say this, is brake boosters in turbo cars, (most cars for that matter), have a one way check valve in line to the booster, so the booster acts as its own vacuum canister. My STi swaped GC8 subie never came with the stock line, so me being retarded just used a piece of fuel tubing, and I experienced scary results just like you guys describe, even at auto-x's. put the right check valve in there, and it solved all the problems.

So, unless you guys are dinking with the stock stuff, I doubt thats the problem. the only thing that would be causing this is actual boost pressure pushing back on your foot, like I had. If there was no vacuum, but also no boost, you should be able to brake fine, just with a stiffer pedal.

DaveK

iTrader: (21)

When I did the motor swap in my 323 GTX, I did the same thing. Much better pedal feel when the check valve was installed.


My GTX even with a new check valve in place would run into issues where the booster felt like it would be pressurized after being on boost for a long periods (think long uphill straight where you're full boost for 15+ seconds).

I'm doing a booster delete, and I'll be sure to report back on how that feels when the car gets back together.

Dave

RareS54

I guess the next step is to check if the brake booster is leaking. Did anyone here check this already and still had vacuum loss? I really don't want to spend for a new booster only to not fix the problem. anyone know the proper way/ sequence to test the brake booster for leaks?

RareS54

Replaced the brake booster and master. Everything seems to be fine after the track day. No more scary stiff pedal at 140mph. Bought all parts used from an Evo IX. Should have done it 2 years ago. FYI for all you who have been following this thread.. Maybe there was a pinhole leak in the booster???

Autoxevo

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the update...looks like I'll be getting a booster next week.